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I finally got to making the final part to my sign (minus the letters). I think I'll try using the abra-smooth on it. I still have to remove the excess foam in the inside it the curlicues. I want to guild many elements of the sign in imitation gold and silver. Since I have no supplies or tools for such a process, what will I need to get started?
Oh..my site is finally back up. If you feel like moseying on over to it, I have a few pics of an airplane monument, in the PUBLIC ART gallery. I worked on this spring..all aluminum , cept the nose
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Wow - beautiful detail Gerald! Will you post the finished sign? I'd like to see it. The airplane monument is great. That looks like it was fun project to work on. I like it!
-------------------- Kathy Weeks Weeks-End Signs & Graphics Lake Elmo, Minnesota Posts: 249 | From: Lake Elmo, Minnesota | Registered: Mar 2009
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Is that styrofoam Gerald? I love Magic Smooth, but if you are thinking of encapsulating that in it I think it will be an absolute nightmare!
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Okay, I just reread that you will be removing the excess foam inside of the curlicues, tnat will make it easier but it still seems pretty challenging. I'd like to be a fly on the wall watching.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Here's what I have in mind for the coulours. The Purple will be silverleafed first then candied purple clear coat. I hope that works. I'll also paint some pieces with a blackened bronze. No rust on this one!!
G
-------------------- Gerald Lauzé FeatureWorx Creative Fabrication 206-19148 27th ave Surrey BC Posts: 264 | From: Cloverdale ( Surrey ) BC | Registered: Mar 2006
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Kelly, I've never used the magic smooth but I imagine it'll be quite goopy. Does it tend to run down vertical planes? It is styrofoam, the whiter center piece is actually recycled, or repurposed if you will, hot tub cover foam. They were never used. I think it's a 1˝ or 2lb. Pretty nice.
-------------------- Tony Vickio The World Famous Vickio Signs 3364 Rt.329 Watkins Glen, NY 14891 t30v@vickiosigns.com 607-535-6241 http://www.vickiosigns.com Posts: 1063 | From: Watkins Glen, New York | Registered: Sep 2001
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The Magic Smooth is like heavy grease or vaseline in it's ability to hold shape. It does not flow at all. Now imagine something like real sticky honey and multiply it by 5. (I'm not joking) It's hard to get a smooth finish on small corners and crannies because it would just as soon stick to whatever tool you are using, itself and in particular to you. If you wear gloves it sticks them together. You can smooth it out with water, but it isn't very easy to get a smooth surface unless you are working on a flat or curved expanse. It's also agressive enough that if you try to work it too much you may start to find it is pulling out styrofoam "cells". These coated in smooth are nasty little boogers that are guaranteed to drive you nuts! If you are going to try it, mix up small amounts and take it a little at a time, at least until you get the hang of it. It's definitely easiest to use in the first 5 or 10 mins after mixing. Have water on hand and an assortment of tools. You don't want to start opening cupboard doors or turning on taps once you get sticky. All that being said, you can do some wonderful stuff with it! And I confess I just came off a project using to 20 lb kits, so I may be feeling it's stickyness a tad more than usual.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Just a note on using real silver.....it will tarnish in a very short time. Aluminum leaf might work out much better for you and it's way cheaper.....no guilt in playing around with it all you want.
Have Fun!
Joe,
Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!
-------------------- Joe Cieslowski Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery P.O.Box 368 East Canaan CT 06024 jcieslowski@snet.net 860-824-0883 Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001
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Ha..no no ..I always planned to use the faux stuff..aluminum all the way. PLus remember I'll be giving the "silver" a candy finish. I can't see it being too easy to do that over real silver. Duncan, the paladium is nice, but you must be pulling my leg on suggesting I use that. That's pricey stuff!! (what the hell is paladium.)
Thanks for the info on the "smooth", Kelly. Some parts, a slight texture might work quite well, but I my try my fav epoxy or styrospray first.
Off to sand some more as the CNC makes more sawdust.
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hahaha... Awesome Design! ...but good luck with that (that's gonna be a lot of work) I would be looking for some kind of a high build, sprayable hard coat or something. I don't know what but it looks like a nightmare to do by hand.
I've been liking the water based wunda size for fake (thick) leafs... quick but long tack, can spray bomb over it without it wrinkling.
What kind of paints are you using?
I'm very much looking forward to seeing the progress pictures!
-------------------- Compulsive, Neurotic, Anti-social and Paranoid ... but basically Happy Posts: 2677 | From: Rochester, NY, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks for the compliments, Mark. The styro spray is a sprayable hardcoat, though that to, I haven't used yet.
Depending on the project, I use mainly a post catalyst industrial paint or exterior latex. The post cat will call for a very well sealed part otherwise I may melt it away.
-------------------- Gerald Lauzé FeatureWorx Creative Fabrication 206-19148 27th ave Surrey BC Posts: 264 | From: Cloverdale ( Surrey ) BC | Registered: Mar 2006
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You can buy DIY kits with that colour change paint in that might work awesome for your project, Gerald. Another nice technique is to paint the base colour and size with 1-shot fast size and then dust on mica powders to give the glint - you can get purples and greens from Michaels. If you haven't used them, those little 2 oz jars go a really long ways. Try it on something else to see if you like the look. I'm thinking leafing that will be a chore as well....then maybe I'm just lazy.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Ok I've seen "size" twice in this thread and I'm not 100% sure what that is. Is it the "glue" for the leaf? Like I said, the only time I've guilded anything was during a demo done by René quite a few moons ago.
Gerald
-------------------- Gerald Lauzé FeatureWorx Creative Fabrication 206-19148 27th ave Surrey BC Posts: 264 | From: Cloverdale ( Surrey ) BC | Registered: Mar 2006
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Aluminum leaf definately and I would use real gold for durability, as it is not that much more expensive. It is also much easier to use than immitation gold, in patent form. You need much more knowledge though to begin a gilding project. At the risk of self interest, I suggest you acquire Gold Leaf Techniques. Most questions will be answered there. The Wunda size or Aqua Size is good for beginners as well...not covered in the current edition of the book. Please also use some practice pieces before attempting to gild that wonderful project.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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I think for this project what you want is patent leaf, particularily if you are a first time gilder. The patent gold comes on a backing that allows th egold to release when it is rubbed onto a stickier surface (size). The size is the adhesive that sticks the leaf to your project. Kent's book is an excellent reference. You may want to start by googling "how to gold leaf". I think there are some You Tube videos out there as well as lots of how tos.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Great info. I've guilded a super long time ago as well as that revision with René a couple years ago. But I should read up I'm sure. I like this patent leather idea..I mean.. patent gold idea.
Off to bed
G
-------------------- Gerald Lauzé FeatureWorx Creative Fabrication 206-19148 27th ave Surrey BC Posts: 264 | From: Cloverdale ( Surrey ) BC | Registered: Mar 2006
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