Letterville Bull Board Letterville | Bull Board
 


 

Front Page
A Letterhead History
About Us
Become A Resident
Edit Your Database Info
Find A Letterhead

Letterville Merchants
Resident Downloads
Letterville BookShop
Future Live Meets
Past Meets
Step-By-Steps
Past Panel Swaps
Past SOTM
Letterhead Profiles
Business Cards
Become A Merchant

Click on the button
below to chat with other
Letterville users.

http://www.letterville.com/ubb/chaticon.gif

Steve & Barb Shortreed
144 Hill St., E.
Fergus, ON, Canada
N1M 1G9

Phone: 519-787-2892
Fax: 519-787-2673
Email: barb@letterville.com

Copyright ©1995-2008
The Letterhead Website

 

 

The Letterville BullBoard Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
my profile login | search | faq | calendar | im | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » cutting lexan on my CNC

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: cutting lexan on my CNC
Doug Allan
Resident


Member # 2247

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Doug Allan   Author's Homepage   Email Doug Allan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
hey guys, I just ran out to but some 3/16" clear acrylic for some second surface signs I need to make tomorrow & the material I was offered was all warpy!! [Mad] :omg:

I've not seen such crap, but I guess I'm used to cast acrylic & didn't know this supplier had quoted me an inferior product, extruded acrylic (I actually never knew about it even)

Anyway, they had Lexan & it was nice and flat so I bought it.

One of my signs is covering a door & there is a 2-1/2" diameter lock I need to rout a hole for, plus several of these signs are where someone could accidently run there finger along the edge, & get cut, so I wanted to run a conic bit around the perimeter of each blank & then cut through with an endmill to give a nice beveled edge...

But, I've never cut Lexan on my router!!

...and the fist time I tried cutting it on my panel saw [Eek!] [Roll Eyes] ...well, you don't wanna know... although I did buy a new blade & now that's not a problem... but it does lead me to wonder what kind of learning curve may be waiting for me now...

So, random ideas are great, but I really hope someone has done this & can confirm what differences I might want to consider regarding the tool, or feeds & speeds.

...oh yeah, I was also hoping to run a test tonight [Razz] :omg:

--------------------
Doug Allan
http://www.islandsign.com

"you get what you settle for"

Posts: 8981 | From: Kahului, HI, USA | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brian Ooms
Visitor
Member # 487

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Brian Ooms   Author's Homepage   Email Brian Ooms       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I have cut it with a rotozip with some success
Never tried to rout it before.

I am curious about your router since I am starting to build one. Is your manufactured or did you build it?

--------------------
Brian Ooms for
CVD -Custom Vinyl Designs
Merrillville, In

Posts: 244 | From: Merrillville, IN | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Doug Allan
Resident


Member # 2247

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Doug Allan   Author's Homepage   Email Doug Allan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Mine is a Multicam 3000 series.

--------------------
Doug Allan
http://www.islandsign.com

"you get what you settle for"

Posts: 8981 | From: Kahului, HI, USA | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Lori Wilcox
Resident


Member # 8042

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Lori Wilcox   Email Lori Wilcox       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Doug, did you have a shard of Lexan fly through the air and put a hole in the opposing wall? I know what you mean on the panel saw - I believe it's due to the curve in the Lexan and the resistance against the blade. Scary!

Use a regular router for the edges? Straight cuts are easily done with a circular saw - put a 2x4 under and in away from the edge, draw a line on Lexan with a marker for the blade to follow.

--------------------
Lori Wilcox
Tabby Ink
Hinton, Alberta Canada
Ph 780-865-4305

Posts: 306 | From: Hinton, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Aug 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brian Ooms
Visitor
Member # 487

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Brian Ooms   Author's Homepage   Email Brian Ooms       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I use masking tape on the area I am going to cut, and I use a 60 Tooth carbide blade in my wormdrive saw..

the tape (I hope) will help prevent it from shattering. Set the depth on the saw just barely enough to cut through the lexan, dont leave it deep enough to cut through a 2x4.

--------------------
Brian Ooms for
CVD -Custom Vinyl Designs
Merrillville, In

Posts: 244 | From: Merrillville, IN | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
jack wills
Resident


Member # 521

Icon 1 posted      Profile for jack wills   Email jack wills   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Doug,
If you can...put two layers of transfer tape.
covering the area to cut. This will create a
barrier that will absorb the heat from the cutter
being transfered by the transfer tape.
Hopefully there will be less gallding (heat) from
the cut.
When cutting with a table saw as well, the line
where you cut can be covered with masking tape to
relieve the heat from the saw blade. Also you can
rub the line to be cut (on the Tape) with a dry
bar soap. This will act as a lubricant and add to
the cooling effect.

Try it on an experimental piece first....

Jack

--------------------
Jack Wills
Studio Design Works
1465 E.Hidalgo Circle
Nye Beach / Newport, OR

Posts: 2914 | From: Rocklin, CA. USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Doug Allan
Resident


Member # 2247

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Doug Allan   Author's Homepage   Email Doug Allan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
interesting sawblade tricks everyone!
Yes, I had Lexan shrapnel flying around at very high speeds that one eventful day...


as far as today goes, 100 inches per minute, 18000 spindle with a 1/4" endmil up-sprial & set for 3 passes (.85" ea. on a 1/4" think test piece)

All went well. Thanks!

--------------------
Doug Allan
http://www.islandsign.com

"you get what you settle for"

Posts: 8981 | From: Kahului, HI, USA | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Crumley
Visitor
Member # 2307

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Crumley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Doug,

Yesterday we finished cuting a bunch of 6" letters from 1/2" lexan. I believe the whole job took four 4'X8' sheets. After running chip load test we were off and running. This stuff is a breeze to route. I used a Belin, up spiral, O flute, two passed at 14000 with a cutting speed of 2"a second.

I can't imagine having a problem with this material. It's so easy to cut.

Joe
www.normansignco.com
Even a second

--------------------
Joe Crumley
Norman Sign Company
2200 Research Park Blvd.
Norman, OK
73069

Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
TJ Duvall
Visitor
Member # 3133

Icon 1 posted      Profile for TJ Duvall   Author's Homepage   Email TJ Duvall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Hey Doug, I cut acrylic all the time. I use 60 inches per minute, with 19000 rpm. I use a single flute upcut Onsrud bit. (1/4" part # 63-725, 1/8" part# is 63-712.) With the 1/4" I can cut 1/2" acrylic with 1 pass. Same with the 1/8" bit with some setting adjustments. I also sometimes use a finish cut to make the cut even better.

The bit does make a big difference!!

--------------------
TJ Duvall
Diamond State Graphics, Inc.

New Castle, DE 19720

Posts: 396 | From: New Castle,Delaware | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Crumley
Visitor
Member # 2307

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Crumley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
TJ,

Acrylic and Polycarb are different materials. Consequently they cut at different feeds and speeds.

Like you say, the proper bit makes all the difference. I like the Onsrud O flute also but the Belin is, in my opinion, a much higher class product. I've tried both.

A clean up pass of .020 works better on plex. Lexan is so soft it doesn't shear with as bright an edge.

I stay away from Lexan because it scratches so esily, but it doesn't split and crack like plex.

Joe
www.normansignco.com

--------------------
Joe Crumley
Norman Sign Company
2200 Research Park Blvd.
Norman, OK
73069

Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dennis Raap
Resident


Member # 3632

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Dennis Raap   Author's Homepage   Email Dennis Raap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Doug, for cooling I use one of these it works great. http://www.arizonavortex.com/spot-cooling/

--------------------
Dennis Raap
Raap Signs

Posts: 839 | From: Coopersville, MI | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Doug Allan
Resident


Member # 2247

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Doug Allan   Author's Homepage   Email Doug Allan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Thanks guys!
(neat tool Dennis... I don't want to use the oil in my mister until I really need to make that kind of mess)

--------------------
Doug Allan
http://www.islandsign.com

"you get what you settle for"

Posts: 8981 | From: Kahului, HI, USA | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Crumley
Visitor
Member # 2307

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Crumley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Doug,

Dennis isn't suggesting you use any oil!

The Vortex tube uses the process of seperating hot air, from cold air, which is generated when the air is forced through a narrow orfice. The net effect is ice cold, dry air coming from one end of he tube. NO OIL!

It's not necessary to cool down the bit on this project with the right bit. But Dennis is correct, a vortex tube is a darn good product. We use ours on dense heavy materials like Extira. I bought it to use on aluminum but found out the Belin O flutes don't need any cooling.

Joe
www.normansignco.com

--------------------
Joe Crumley
Norman Sign Company
2200 Research Park Blvd.
Norman, OK
73069

Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ted Turner
Visitor
Member # 2799

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Ted Turner   Author's Homepage   Email Ted Turner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Hey Doug-
We run two MC 3000's all day. We don't cool with any thing on any of the plastics, feed and speed rates for acrylic and poly carbonate are the same. If you like I can get you specific rates and forward our settings to you. Oh yeah, thanks for the killer coffee in Pontiac!

--------------------
Ted Turner

Paint Designer / Stylist - Styling Dept.
Harley-Davidson Motor Company
Product Development Center
11800 W. Capitol Drive
Wauwatosa, WI 53222

phone 414.465.6005
cell 414.232.8185
fax 414.465.6330

ted.turner@harley-davidson.com

Posts: 81 | From: Wauwatosa, WI | Registered: Mar 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


Contact Us | Letterville. A Community Of Letterheads & Pinheads!

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2

Search For Sign Supplies
Category:
 

                  

Letterhead Suppliers Around the World