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Ive done the exterior in corrugated metal now its time to seal off the interior to prevent the flaking rust chunks from falling on anything stored inside. Ive thought about sheet foam board @$12 a sheet then covered with 1/8" masonite. Another options is to clean off most of the loose chunks of rust and use a spray foam, but checking prices for a DIY kit its over $1000!Coverage will be for approx 8 ft x40 ft. Any ideas on a cheap way to seal it off?
-------------------- Gary Patrick AmericanAutoGraphics Oviedo,FL Posts: 77 | From: oviedo,fl usa | Registered: Mar 2000
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How about a big blue plastic tarp? K-Mart sells them cheap enough.
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6451 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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i woulda done that, prior to installing the panels. would made it a lot simpler. now you looking at some kinda big sprayer set up, with what doesent stick to the panels will be on your floor and walls. there is a new product out ive seen it in home depot/lowes, its basially BUBBLE WRAP with a white vinyl on one side and an aluminum covering on the other. i have this in my 24x30 shop on the vertical walls. when i bought mine it came in 6 ft wide rolls 250 ft long and cost me bout 40 cents a sq ft. BUT i installed mine...befor i put on sheets of steel. so it is on the grits to keep it in place and i used a seam tape to cover the 6 ft overlap of the next roll. i guess you could spray the sheet with contact cement and then allpy the bubble wrap
[ December 08, 2008, 01:14 AM: Message edited by: old paint ]
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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old roof is still intact on the inside (whats left of it) new roof is screwed to the old roof right over the patches. Roofing patch(bull) was used to fix all the old problems before the new corrugated roof went on.
-------------------- Gary Patrick AmericanAutoGraphics Oviedo,FL Posts: 77 | From: oviedo,fl usa | Registered: Mar 2000
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I hope I'm not misunderstanding what you're trying to do, but I would think a couple of coats of a heavy acrylic industrial coating would do the job. I'd apply it with an airless setup and you'll have minimal overspray.
You didn't say how much square footage you're trying to cover, but more exotic coatings are available.....at more exotic prices.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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Gary, I wish you could show a picture of the interior of your building. That might help us in our suggestions.
If it's a steel building and you have metal purlins, you could screw corrugated tin to the bottom of the purlins. I'd look for the cheapest, thinnest (something like 29 ga. or even thinner) metal your could find, since all it's doing is dressing out the interior. It doesn't really need to be structurally that strong. You should be able to buy that square footage of metal for around $200.
Another inexpensive way to go would be to use vinyl siding or vinyl soffit. My father-in-law used that to finish out the underside of his roof in his shop and it looks really nice.
If you are looking to insulate it, it IS going to add to your cost, and it's like Joe said, it would have been nice to put it down under the new metal that was going on...
If you were wanting to do the spray-foam, which would insulate it tremendously, I think you could actually find someone in your area in that business who'd do it for less that $1k. A guy I know does it for around $1.50 a sq. ft. which would only be about $480. Don't know if he's high or low.
-------------------- Jon Jantz Snappysign.com jjantz21@gmail.com http://www.allcw.com Posts: 3395 | From: Atmore, AL | Registered: Nov 2005
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Thanks for the suggestions guys yes its a shipping container 40x8 high cube. Most of the underside of roof is heavy rust but not rusted thru. the metal splines that tie the flat sheetmetal roof panels on are 2 ft apart and span the 8ft wide area. Since these splines are sealed off from upper roof they make a perfect place to screw off to. Ideally some cheap paneling,plywood,or composite laminate would seal off the old roof. I have a 10x100 roll of 6 mil poly that I may use as the first vapor barrier layer.Im alittle hesitant to use OSB and the first hint of moisture it looks like a potato chip.Conexes normally sweat alot inside,especially in the summer in Florida.
-------------------- Gary Patrick AmericanAutoGraphics Oviedo,FL Posts: 77 | From: oviedo,fl usa | Registered: Mar 2000
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first thing I'd do is buy and brush on POR15 either directly over the rust or use a wire brush first. The POR15 will stop the rust from spreading dead in its tracks.
This is how it is in real life
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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I would get a hydraulic rivet gun. Rivet galvanized sheet metal to the purlins or you could use exterior grade plywood. Then I would install small attic ventilators, designed for installing in a gable vent, and install louvres on the outside to keep rain out. That should help eliminate the condensation problem.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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What about white coroplast? You should be able too finish it for $100 or so. The flutes in coroplast have an insulating factor that may reduce the condensation as well.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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quote:Originally posted by Joey Madden: first thing I'd do is buy and brush on POR15 either directly over the rust or use a wire brush first. The POR15 will stop the rust from spreading dead in its tracks.
This is how it is in real life
I use a lot of POR 15 and think its great.but its way to expensive to use here. My dad used to market a product called Poxy Coat,which was a one part epoxy paint. I think POR-15 copied that paint and marketed it better. We still have about 20 gallons of that left,I may use it on the better areas.
-------------------- Gary Patrick AmericanAutoGraphics Oviedo,FL Posts: 77 | From: oviedo,fl usa | Registered: Mar 2000
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heres a couple of pics first is typical,second is the worst. Im going to wire brush all of it and remove the large loose chunks off the worst panel.Sandblasting is out of the questions,I may not have much left if I do,and Im trying to make this as painless as possible.
-------------------- Gary Patrick AmericanAutoGraphics Oviedo,FL Posts: 77 | From: oviedo,fl usa | Registered: Mar 2000
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well Gary, a 40' conex is worth at least a couple thousand dollars anywhere in this country and anything worth storage of your belongings is also worth your Poxy Coat
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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