posted
Pharaoh and Mrs. Pharaoh need a sign..........
This will be made of HDU but I haven't decided whether to sandblast or shopbot it. If I do route it, I will also come back and blast over the whole thing to antique it. I will also tweek the graphics, and crook the lines a little more. Havent decided whether to leave it unpainted or paint with dulled or "dry brushed colors. I will also double check the hieroglyph translation. Any ideas as to how to make this look really ancient would be appreciated.
[ December 04, 2008, 06:07 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
I'd sandblast it. Vary your blasting distance from far away to almost touching in order to make it appear worn and distressed. You can also angle to under cut the blasting mask in places. Remove the mask and distress it a bit with files, chisels, rasps and sandpaper and then return it to the booth for a light overall blast to soften and age the distressing. Afterwards you could simulate lichen, crud or mold by combining Titebond or Weldbond with some sand and latex paint. Go lightly, less is more.
Definitely paint it or it will age and break down a lot faster than you want, unless it is indoors completely safe from UV.
[ December 04, 2008, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: Kelly Thorson ]
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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(actually, Mark, the glyphs do translate fairly logically, if you look into it. I've got a book here somnewhere on the Rosetta Stone & how they used it to work out cuneiform & heiroglyphics translations- it's interesting stuff!)
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
I think Kelly's ideas are worthy, especially the random depth blasting. Do around the edges, "wearing them away". Some random sponging of acrylics, then wiping them off, will simulate molding and discoloration. But,like said, make sure there is some good covering of paint, stain or whatever for protection from UV.
Some of that heiroglyphic is easy to decipher. On the second line, for instance, near the middle, there is a guy getting ready to pound some sharp object into a lion's butt. Next to him is a first aid person with a gurney, getting ready to transport his remains to the hospital, after the lion gets done with him.
posted
That right bottom corner is Mom, Dad & the kids. The first kid has his hand out so he can go to the mall, the second one in is the musician of the family with a mutant bagpipe and the third one is going to beat on the little fourth one who is building a lego tower. And above that it says, "bird, eyeball, bird, bird, squiggly line."
-------------------- Jane Diaz Diaz Sign Art 628 W. Lincoln Ave. Pontiac, Il. 61764 815-844-7024 www.diazsignart.com Posts: 4102 | From: Pontiac, IL USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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Jane, I think you need to look again at the bottom right..... I see a different story all together. To me, it looks like Mom has a toilet plunger and dad is proudly demonstrating something... can't quite make it out....
-------------------- Jon Jantz Snappysign.com jjantz21@gmail.com http://www.allcw.com Posts: 3395 | From: Atmore, AL | Registered: Nov 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Kelly Thorson: I'd sandblast it. Vary your blasting distance from far away to almost touching in order to make it appear worn and distressed. You can also angle to under cut the blasting mask in places. Remove the mask and distress it a bit with files, chisels, rasps and sandpaper and then return it to the booth for a light overall blast to soften and age the distressing. Afterwards you could simulate lichen, crud or mold by combining Titebond or Weldbond with some sand and latex paint. Go lightly, less is more.
Definitely paint it or it will age and break down a lot faster than you want, unless it is indoors completely safe from UV.
Thanks for the great tips Kelly, I do intend to paint the whole thing at least one color and your painting/distressing ideas will come in handy for that. I just wasn't sure if I should paint the details in the images.
The reason, guys, that the workmen look like little kids, is because ancient kings would often have themselves depicted as much larger than their subjects. I guess it was an ego thing. The man with the chisel is supposed to be carving a stone lion, but I see that may be a bad idea; maybe I'll replace it with a Sphynx an obelisk or something. I think the "toilet plunger is a lotus flower on a staff. One workman is carving "horus" the falcon god, and the workers on the scaffold are carving an obelisk. I think, to make it more like a sign shop, they can all be carving glyphs, obelisks and stele.
Mark, yes you can read and translate the glyphs. The first column roughly translates "how much is a sign", the second one gives the size and material, the third column says "two hin of barley, o' great one" the fourth "this is too much, I give you one" and the last one says "thank you o' generous one" and the cartouche (place for the king's name) at the far right says "o' great one". I'm not sure how close the translation really is but it's not that big of a deal anyway.
[ December 05, 2008, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
This whole thing could be done on the router very easily. I would keep the graphic as a bitmap and 'wiggle' it up some in photoshop or similar program. Then create a splotchy bitmap file (I call mine 'splotches' Applied in two layers to the file in a program like EnRoute its two quick clicks of the mouse to create the file.
Once off the router I would apply a light base coat of acrylic (flat finish) and then two layers of acrylic glazes to quickly and easily achieve the aged look you are after.
If you need more info give me a buzz.
-grampa dan
-------------------- Dan Sawatzky Imagination Corporation Yarrow, British Columbia dan@imaginationcorporation.com http://www.imaginationcorporation.com
Being a grampa is one of the the most wonderful things in the world!!! Posts: 8738 | From: Yarrow, B.C. Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks Dan! I create and edit vectors in SignWizard 6.0 then manipulate bitmaps in Corel PhotoPaint. My CAD/CAM program is Type3 TypeEdit. I want to make this thing 8' long by 3' high and hang in the showroom here at the shop.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
If you decide to route it make sure you vary the depth of the glyphs so they are not uniform. That's a dead giveaway. I'd also make it a bit bigger and give them some room to breathe. They seem very crowded to me. If you do decide to blast it, I'd do all the glyphs and freehand carve the lines afterwards before distressing. That will take the uniformity out of it and make it look more hand chiseled. BTW I really like the concept!
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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· Use standard 2" insulation foam (the blue or pink stuff). · Make a vinyl pattern and peel out the images. · Spray with almost any solvent-based spray paint, or graffiti remover, or possibly hair spray (can't remember if it eats in). The paint will eat into the foam irregularly. · Peel the mask and then spray some more mist onto the surface to eat in a little more. Practice spraying closer and further. Any overspray will just add to the effect of graininess. Actually, in the next step I mention using sand - maybe all you need is to back off and spray a "dry coat" of primer from a distance for a grain. · Mix some sand or grit into your primer, and then final coat. Rags, brushes, Q-Tips, fingers. · Use a ketchup/mustard squeezy thingy and fill with the paint color for inside the lines and images - Ronan Aquacote works great for this. · Install onto wall with double-back tape or "garden hanger" - it only weighs about 5 pounds maybe.
You're done. 6 hours max, if that long. Material cost - about $20... you have all the paints laying around. Effect - Priceless.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
A very cool thread, very therapeutic laughs, but in all seriousness...an AWESOME display room idea! I had previously started on some Greek letters, but this is better. Way to go. Many years ago, my first shop was called International Sign Works, not because I was so large, but for my love of foreign type. Guess it's still there. Great idea.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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We used to do quite a few "faux" sandblasted signs (small, for interior use) years ago, by using Gene's method. We'd mask, remove the background, then mist with lacquer thinner in an airbrush. The thinner would dissolve the background. (be careful, or it'll dissolve all the way thru) Then paint with acrylics. It works.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
Thanks for the cool ideas and kind words everyone. Gene, that reminds me of my first experience with solvent and styrene.... About 22 years ago, I was using some wood preservative on our first home(trailer). I poured some in a styrofoam cup, walked away for a few minutes and when I came back, the cup had disappeared. hehe
Thanks guys!
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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