posted
That you just clear coat over the Alluminum leaf with the regular base clear, same as always... or is there anything I should be careful about.
I guess you have to use wash and wipe sparingly over the leaf as well.
I have the leaf all done, I just have to do a little more Airbrushing and then it's off for clear coat and then back for striping and then back for the final clear.
-------------------- "Keep Positive"
SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
You could use House of Kolor Aluminum Kleer Koat. You would also need the HOK Al Kleer prep, catalyzer, and reducer (hi and lo temp). It's about $750 for the whole set.
-------------------- Ricky Jackson Signs Now 614 Russell Parkway Warner Robins, GA (478) 923-7722 signpimp50@hotmail.com
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." Sir Issac Newton Posts: 3528 | From: Warner Robins, GA | Registered: Oct 2004
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posted
"I guess you have to use wash and wipe sparingly over the leaf as well"
I wouldn't do any washing over the leaf at all, too big of a risk of damaging it. Wiping can also dull it a little too ( this is especially true on 23kt )
A little late for this but cotton gloves worn while sizing will eliminate any fingerprints and thus the need for any washing.
If you feel the need to wash, a rag dampened will suffice, I would get as close to the leaf as is safe. I wouldn't rub on it any.
edited to add a maulstick will keep you fingers off the surface too ( I never learned to use one so I do the glove thing )
[ December 02, 2008, 10:13 AM: Message edited by: George Perkins ]
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
Neil..in a word, Yes. But like George is saying, the whole fender needs to be grease free...no fingerprints. If there are any contaminants on the surface, then you could have fish-eying.
Or not.
You are the best judge of that...keep on going ahead full steam.
You're project is going to be A-OK, I believe.
[ December 02, 2008, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Jeff Ogden ]
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
Thanks again, Common sense told me to steer clear of the leaf, but I have to get this across to the person who's clearing it... it's a body shop, so I have to be precise in my directions. Common sense tells me to wet sand the clear, then do the outline and then clear again. Right?
-------------------- "Keep Positive"
SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
When I do leaf I will usually brush on a coat of the same catalized clear that I will be using for a final finish, making sure the size is dry (wait until the next day or use a heat lamp). Then do the outlining with HOK urethane. When that is good and dry, I spray on 3 or 4 finish coats, starting with a couple dust coats and letting them flash for a while before laying on heavier coats. Then color sand and polish.
The only time I clear and sand before striping is when there is a paint edge from masking and spraying that needs to be sanded flat so that it doesn't show through the striping.
[ December 02, 2008, 07:37 PM: Message edited by: Jim Moser ]
-------------------- Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass... It's about learning to dance in the rain ! Jim Moser Design 13342 C Grass Valley Ave. Grass Valley, Ca. 95945 530-273-7615 jwmoser@att.net Posts: 488 | From: Grass Valley, Ca. | Registered: May 2006
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