posted
I have cut some letters out of Extira, I was going to prime and paint with Exterior latex house paint until I read about someone on shopbot forum that had some bad luck with the paint coming off when he peeled the mask.
I don't really need that to happen.
What primer and paints have you found to work best?
posted
I found finishing instructions on their website some time ago. Oil based exterior clear polyurethane for a sealer coat. Then something like zinsser oil based primer, then topcoat.
-------------------- John Byrd Ball Ground, Georgia 770-735-6874 http://johnbyrddesign.com so happy I gotta sit on both my hands to keep from wavin' at everybody! Posts: 741 | From: Ball Ground, Georgia, USA | Registered: May 1999
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We always seal Extira with shellac first - it soaks in well - and then prime with Fresh Start acrylic primer. Finish with latex or oil. Never had any issues.
-------------------- Graham Parsons Signs 'n Such Ltd Swift Current Saskatchewan Canada. www.signsnsuch.com
"Saskatchewan - hard to pronounce, easy to draw" Posts: 710 | From: Saskatchewan, Canada | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
Do you seal the edges with glue or just coat the shellac over them? We normally apply the finish coat to MDO, then paint mask, then router the design through the mask. Do you do this? Are are their any issues with paint lifting off when you remove the mask? Any particular brand or type of Shellac? Here's a link to a specification bulletin... Finishing Extira for signage
Yes, we router through mask as well when the need arises, but don't seal the edges with Extira (though I can understand you would with MDO) No problem with paint lifting (we use Oracal mask) though I usually allow at least 48 hours after finish coating before applying the mask, and also let the applied mask sit for another 24 hours before routing. I also wax the top of the uncut mask before putting on the router, and this seems to reduce tearing of the paint film.
We use Zinsser (?) shellac 'cos that's what HH stocks...
-------------------- Graham Parsons Signs 'n Such Ltd Swift Current Saskatchewan Canada. www.signsnsuch.com
"Saskatchewan - hard to pronounce, easy to draw" Posts: 710 | From: Saskatchewan, Canada | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
When this material first showed up here I tried it on one project and finished with oil primers as that was recommended at the time. This was 6 or 7 years ago and everything (on that job) is still just fine. I really don't use it that much now because of the weight and that Corofoam is just sooooo good.
quote: We always seal Extira with shellac first - it soaks in well - and then prime with Fresh Start acrylic primer. Finish with latex or oil. Never had any issues.
Well that is what I did...
1 coat of Shellac 1 coat of Fresh Start Primer by Bengamin Moore 2 coats of Bengamin Moore Exterior acrylic latex paint.
Cut vinyl mask cause I cannot hand letter Painted letters
Peeled mask and it pulled up paint and primer all the way to bare extira.
So I took a paint scraper and started scraping and the primer and paint basically was not stuck to the extira at all. It came off in big sheets like peeling vinyl.
So the big question is... How do you make paint adhere to Extira???????
posted
Joe has been very busy at his shop and he's getting behind even more since his right hand man Terry died recently.
From what Joe told me, most of his Extira use is for routing letters used for forming letters in concrete. No sealing or painting necessary. Concrete is hard and forms pulled before there is any swelling.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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So the big question is... How do you make paint adhere to Extira???????
Much input would be appreciated. Thanks [/QB]
Blake take the time to study this and you should have no problems what so ever. It has been a great product to work with if done properly. . www.extira.com/pdf/extira_signmaker_0208.pdf
-------------------- Sam Staffan Mackinaw Art & Sign 721 S. Nokomis St. Mackinaw City, MI dstaffan@sbcglobal.net Posts: 1694 | From: Mackinaw City, MI | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
Sorry Blake, I do not. Next time I talk to Joe I'll ask him to send one so I can post it. He cuts the letters in reverse (mirror image) with a steep, I think 20 degree v cutter. I have one, they are cool and put a bevel edge along most of the letter height so it will pop out of the concrete later. He just supplies the letters to the concrete guys. They screw the letters down to the forms (I assume MDO) put a border dam around the perimeter and pour the concrete. I'm sure they vibrate it to shake out bubbles & voids. Concrete cures, they flip it over and remove the form and Extira letters for a concrete slab with incised letters. These are really popular by Joe for subdivision entrance signs set into a brick wall.
Edit: Talked to Joe today. They also apply a release agent to the letters before pouring the concrete. There's a wet method and a dry mix method.
[ December 05, 2008, 10:00 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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