posted
Hi all, I've been out of the sign business for a few months, but I have some jobs now, so I guess I'm back in. It was actually like a vacation in a way. I was doing odd remodeling jobs for a friend, all I had to do was show up and work. No sales, no schedule hassles... Anyway, I use a fair amount of paint mask, which I buy from the local supplier. They carry (don't shoot) Avery brand, which works quite well, when warm. That's the problem and question: Do any of you know of a brand that stays flexible at a lower temp? This product hits a certain temperature, I guess around 60 or 65f and gets brittle. When I go to peel it off, it cracks. It seems as though it would have a transformation, like gets harder gradually, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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I find a pass with the heat gun works when away from the shop, but in the shop radiant heat, it warms it up equally and peels off smooth.
I must say though it is not Avery it is FDC, but theirs is brittle when cold too.
-------------------- Sam Staffan Mackinaw Art & Sign 721 S. Nokomis St. Mackinaw City, MI dstaffan@sbcglobal.net Posts: 1694 | From: Mackinaw City, MI | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
Oracal white is my favorite.when we encounter cold temps, hit the vinyl with some heat,not too much,and naturally remove the mask soon after painting.The heat light also tacks the brushed on freah 1 shot to grip the airbrushed color -paint build up from......running. heck, if this happens anyway, no crisis, just take a piece of 3/4 masking tape or transfer,and "rounding the shape" lightly apply tape to paint-sag spot,pull away....let dry -or hit with heat for a few seconds,or use JUST the air from the iwata/etc.....and blend again. i.o.a.f.s. i learned this from the talented Otis in Lodi...it's only a freakin sign ! ...folks.
after bookoo cussing & mistakes, i use my body shop heat light-a good 2 ft. back from the truck or metal ( heat seems to hold & migrate unlike glass or plastics) and i pull and cut the mask so as not to have the mask "hit-touch-slingshot-or mess up the wet paint area) the blue mask, is good for large copy,i use it just for overspray covering-and have not reorderd this "flavor")
good luck.
several times i've been in some shop lettering, using the mask mostly for airbrushing phone #'s-blending etc.-it's easier & consistent. The shop know it all, says oohhh, your cheating. ok, here ya go Chappy, handing him the brush or airbrush, you can finish this while i make a Starbux run.....dude.
naturally, i have to report, no one has "jumped" on the opportunity to relieve me off my generic duties !
just say no to squeegez !
good luck MZ
-------------------- mark zilliox mark z signs 8425 pushaw station rd. owings md. 20736 301-855-5407 thezs@earthlink.net http://www.markzsigns.com Posts: 348 | From: maryland | Registered: May 2003
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also, if you need to cut small copy or like me, we cut an offset for an outline @ the same time use black chalk to "see" the weeding lines.
i mean, lightly swipe the mask-on your weeding table, to see the cut lines. but we find after the weeding is accomplished, wipe with aqua-lightly, so the transfer tape will adhere without resorting to my 2nd language if it fails to "lft" on site or in the shop.
i still think profanity is a 2nd language ! to be used "sparingly"....like for vinyl headaches & unannounced mother-in-law visits.......or spike in fuel prices !
were over that for now.........hopefully.
-------------------- mark zilliox mark z signs 8425 pushaw station rd. owings md. 20736 301-855-5407 thezs@earthlink.net http://www.markzsigns.com Posts: 348 | From: maryland | Registered: May 2003
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several times i've been in some shop lettering, using the mask mostly for airbrushing phone #'s-blending etc.-it's easier & consistent. The shop know it all, says oohhh, your cheating.
I had a piece once and I was going to scan the art for a template to make a dimensional sign. The client gave me the art and I took it over to my light table and started tracing it.
He said, "Hey that's cheating is'nt it?" I said, your paying me $65.00 an hour to do artwork, I can shut the light table off and hand draw it in about 1 1/2 hours or I can turn it back on and do it in about 15 to 20 min. What would you like me to do?
He said to proceed!
-------------------- Sam Staffan Mackinaw Art & Sign 721 S. Nokomis St. Mackinaw City, MI dstaffan@sbcglobal.net Posts: 1694 | From: Mackinaw City, MI | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
Thanks for the tips. I once got that "Hey your cheating" bit while using a hand drawn and perforated paper pattern. Guess you're supposed to draw it each time.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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For paint mask I use my 4025 transfer mask. It makes a great mask. (Or I guess just about any paper transfer mask would work.) It peels up as easy as a 'POST-IT', leaves no resdiue, is economical. Just do a test and see what you think. Some tips as follows are basically the same with any paint mask except maybe the burnishing . . .:
~Not as much fun to peel with smaller copy/art, say under 2", but . . . which mask IS?
~Burnish the edges. depending on the detail, I use my thumbnail, plastic bottle top, or squeegee. As with all such things burnish 'away from' the inside corners, outside corners and sharp points.
~Don't set the item in the sun to dry with the mask on it.
~Peeling it up is best done before the paint is cure-dry. Low-tack is best. At least, don't let it set for days.
~You can wait 'til it's dry to peel if ya want . . . but I never can. The analyzation of the dynamics of the 'wait'/can't wait' personality traits is a whole 'nuther thread . . .
~Some tearing might occur, but this is usually just when I hurry and, at least to me, is preferable to the cracking and stiffness, and over-sticking of vinyl masks.
~East to hand-cut, but you can ostensibley cut it on the plotter. Mark Matajowski had a post on how to do this on a thread somewhere . . . sorry, I can't recall just now the exact name of it.
posted
We use "R-Tape's" paint mask both in the shop & we put it our pinstriping kits. It' the best. We apply it with a little application fluid to make it easier to remove. We're "beta" testing some new "masking material" from them that really seems even more flexible.
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