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This old iron safe needs refinishing and some gold leaf repair. However, this summer this safe took on a crummy finish (see image). Was this due to humidity or cleaning with bad solvent?
Anyway, I need some help on how to refinish to bring this safe back where it has been for over 100 years. It's a town safe in New England. The "S" in "Safe" (see image) is @ 3".
Thanks!
-------------------- Mark Bachman Bachman Studio Great Barrington, MA USA http://www.signart.pair.com Posts: 83 | From: Great Barrington, MA, USA | Registered: May 1999
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Dang man, that's some tight work! I'm guessing that you're going to need to make some good patterns and start with a good foundation if that's what they want. Is it my imagination or is there an outline on these letters?
-------------------- Ricky Jackson Signs Now 614 Russell Parkway Warner Robins, GA (478) 923-7722 signpimp50@hotmail.com
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." Sir Issac Newton Posts: 3528 | From: Warner Robins, GA | Registered: Oct 2004
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I've restored 32 safes so far. Make some pounce patterns and completely repaint it. It needs to be done at your shop. Or send it to a body shop first.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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I too agree with John Arnott and the problem on how the safe's finish got this way should be of no thought for the solution is the only thing that is important.
Dwelling on problems are where mistakes begin while it doesn't have anything to do with the cure. Granted 100 years ago, lacquer may have been king but this safe has to be painted over and restored with today's paints as well as today's preparation. If I were to do this work, after I photographed the lettering and either pounced it or laid tracing paper or whatever, I would than have the safe stripped of all the paint inside and out using a media blast system and not with chemicals. For professional results, professionalism must be used.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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Thanks for the replies. You have been of great help.
-------------------- Mark Bachman Bachman Studio Great Barrington, MA USA http://www.signart.pair.com Posts: 83 | From: Great Barrington, MA, USA | Registered: May 1999
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The accuracy and detail of that lettering is simply incredible. I like to think of myself as a fairly decent hand letterer, but compared to that kind of work I'm pretty ham-handed.
I cannot think of a way to clean that surface without obliterating the lettering. Joey's right; to make it look like it should, it ought to be completely repainted.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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You know just about everyone would have a different tack on doing this job. This is mine...
I agree it would be a tedious task to match the obviously master letterman that did the original... so why not take this a step further ...photo it digitally, reproduce the art perfectly... then silk screen this beauty (a creamy white to imply age). Hand shade it for the looseness of the free hand look. Use a very subtle shade color (maybe two shades down).
Trust me your customer will be impressed with the final look...and really you haven't done any sacriledge because you have actually given the customer the "original signature" from the original master.
It's just too bad you can't give him the original lead paint that lasted 120 years!
Never mind tho ...you won't be around when this one fades off! LOL
[ October 07, 2008, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
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John, Joey and Monte have the right idea. I have many examples of this fine Spencerian style script, executed with a long pencil quill. Not tough with a good pattern. I would caution that many safes had fillers made from whte lead, to make the face door smooth and will have to be replaced after blasting with modern equivilents.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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I would rather fill than remove everything. I sand down with a dual action sander, then glaze the safes because they already spent a lot of time filling the low spots, seems, and ripples. I have spot blasted some bad spots.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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As everyone else said, refinish the safe and start with a fresh canvas. Make patterns with tracing paper and transfer to the new paint job with Saral artists transfer paper.
-------------------- Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass... It's about learning to dance in the rain ! Jim Moser Design 13342 C Grass Valley Ave. Grass Valley, Ca. 95945 530-273-7615 jwmoser@att.net Posts: 488 | From: Grass Valley, Ca. | Registered: May 2006
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Just wanted to add this bit of information. Media blasting is completely safe compared to sand blasting as it will not harm the metal whatsoever and you can actually bring it to the primer if need be. This type of blasting whether walnuts or soda has replaced sand in many restoration businesses.
Lacquer paints although many believe have been outlawed or banned is a myth. Quality lacquers can be had and are still used today in the furniture business and for musical instruments such as the piano or guitars right here in the good ol'USA.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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As I've done plenty of safes over time,(Liberace's for one, still on display in his museum), I learned that some/most of the artwork was done w/leaf, and colored over...I suspect the same was done here, it's not gold paint, but leaf...if one was to query Kent Smith, I think the technique is called (sp?) Quache???
As far as redoing, I'd strip and flatten then repaint w/urethane, then colorsand,make a good transfer of art (I guess one could even use technologies of today and produce a computor designed mask) and apply artwork (leaf or paint, I'd prefer leaf, spun or textured) and final coats of clear, then buff to a flawless sheen, forever sealing the artwork to surface, got to be considerate of artists of the future, afterall, someday, someone else will get the call or will it be mental telepahtic by then (?), and they will thank you for leaving them a simple redo....lol
-------------------- Frank Magoo, Magoo's-Las Vegas; fmagoo@netzero.com "the only easy day was yesterday" Posts: 2365 | From: Las Vegas, Nv. | Registered: Jun 2003
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quote:Originally posted by Kent Smith: ...will have to be replaced after blasting with modern equivilents.
STAND BACK, KENT'S GONNA BLOW UP THE SAFE!
-------------------- Ricky Jackson Signs Now 614 Russell Parkway Warner Robins, GA (478) 923-7722 signpimp50@hotmail.com
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." Sir Issac Newton Posts: 3528 | From: Warner Robins, GA | Registered: Oct 2004
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I agree with Joey that you can still buy lacquer from selected outlets...but....furniture lacquer is not the same as automotive lacquer. I did a custom job on a safe for a buddy of mine years ago, but painted it with acrylic enamel.
Wouldn't you use an automotive lacquer on a metal safe? I'm talking about the old nitrocellulose lacquer they used on the old, old cars.... You can still buy that too.
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