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Is anybody familiar with the Matthews Paint System? I have quite a few shaped .080 aluminum panels to paint, and I plan on spraying them. I'm skilled at spraying plastic faces, and I have sprayed many carved signs over the years, so the method of spraying is not foreign to me.
Usually, I would just roll the faces, but the irregular shapes, and the shear quantity screams to be sprayed. I have yet to tackle 35 double-faced METAL panels - all approximately 24"x36".
I would like them to be more of a matte finish, which is why I think I want the Matthews.
Any suggestions? Any preparation, other than the normal prep wash? Will they all need to be scuffed first? I don't do that when I coat them out with One Shot - would a full metal panel require a different approach when spraying?
Is there a matte finish automotive process? I may have some trouble finding a supplier for the Matthews in my area, and the freight may be the deal-breaker.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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Try some auto body supply places in your area. Some of them carry Mathews. If matte color is not available, they make a matte clear. They make their own primers. We spray small aluminum pieces with just scuffing before. Don't know if I'd trust it on large surfaces.
-------------------- Dennis Goddard
Gibsonton Fl Posts: 1050 | From: Tampa Fl USA | Registered: Apr 2000
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I have sprayed it, but learned the hard way by not scuffing the .080 first. It all falked off. On my redo I scuffed the aluminum with red scotchbrite and followed the spray directions -- paying special attention to the 2nd coat directions. The duranodic colors need precise spraying to keep from looking blotchy.
By the way Matthews is available at a number of sign suppliers, but some avoid shipping hazardous paints. I get it from those who deliver on a route.
-------------------- Bill Diaz Diaz Sign Art Pontiac IL www.diazsignart.com Posts: 2107 | From: Pontiac, IL | Registered: Dec 2001
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What are those options, and is scuffing necessary? Not a matter of lazy as much as it is a LOT of scuffing, and I have a horrible back. Are we talking just roughing it up a little, or reducing the shine completely? Isn't there a solvent to do the same thing?
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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No need to scuff aluminum panels...just clean properly and use the aluminum primer that is recommended with whatever paint that you decide on. Most aluminum primers are self etching.
Have fun!
-------------------- Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
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Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8827 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm assuming you're talking prepainted aluminum in which case I would scuff until the shine is gone. They make conversion kits for painting raw aluminum which contains a mild etch and a coating that turns the metal a transparent green, then a primer and then paint. It's just a whole lot easier to buy prepainted aluminum (available everywhere), scuff and paint. Don't do like I did and ignore this step or it will cost you.
-------------------- Bill Diaz Diaz Sign Art Pontiac IL www.diazsignart.com Posts: 2107 | From: Pontiac, IL | Registered: Dec 2001
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For raw Aluminum, scuff and prime with self etching primer, the yellow stuff most auto paint have a version of it. For Pre painted panels take the extra time to prime with a sandable primer, the gray stuff, thins with lacquer thinner. This will insure adhesion and it will not need to be scuffed if you paint the same day. I use Sherwin Williams base coat to obtain a low sheen matt finish, no clear coat. It is what you would do with Mathews. They do have a matt clear coat for added protection and a semi gloss look But most shops just use there base coat with out clear unless they are looking for glossy.
[ August 05, 2008, 12:23 PM: Message edited by: Dana Stanley ]
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Gene, assuming you're using pre-painted panels, you should definitely scuff them, or you can buy a product called Liquid Sandpaper, which you wipe on and it etches the material. Still you're gonna be using your back.
I would imagine Matthews makes a "Flatting Base" for their paints which you mix in with your color. This way, you don't have to mess with clearcoats. You may have to play with the amount of it you mix in, to get the desired sheen.
And be sure to use a GOOD respirator.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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there is no downside to martin senour,its the same thing as sherwin williams and alot of other things and not much different at all than Matthews,which is PPG. Any line now has the capability to make durable flat colors since that flat black wannabe hot rod crap is the latest thing. The flatter you make it,the less surface strength it has and the easier it will stain,mark and have less weather resistance etc. What you really dont want to do is use just basecoat alone with no clearcoat on top of it,its not designed for that and on 35 signs the law of averages on whether or not a failure is gonna get you is not on your side.....spraying the flat color coat keep the same distance from the panel all the way down it,keep your wrist 90deg to the surface and keep the overlap the same,try for about 50%,using a crosshatch coat will not hurt but its not entirely necessary, and keep the gun moving a nice steady speed anddont let off the triiger till you get off the edge of the panel, or like bill mentioned you will get a blotchy uneven look...spraya couple of test panels...and you may get some darker shading of the color from an angle as a final result than the original spec color using flat even though the paint jobber may tell you no. Scuff them with the red scotchbrite pads which is equivalent to about 400grit till the shine is gone,dont dig into the thing like youre grinding it no need,instead of using the liquid products,they wont always give you an even 'etch' depth/mil wise....mechanical adhesion is always better than chemical or chemical induced adhesion.
Edited to add this...Get enough paint to spray all 35 from one mixed batch to avoid a variance and use they're recommended reducer/catalyst etc,with 35 of them you dont want one staying wet more than the other or vice versa,which very well could happen my mixing/matching reducers you had laying around etc....most paint is fairly compatible bc of such widespread interbreeding and cross manufacturing among parent companies but they do do some proprietary crap sometimes to throw a wrench up the monkeys ass on purpose
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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You can definitely use Sherwin Williams base coat without any clear on it! It is what they recommend if you want a semi flat finish. I do it all the time. The paint on my foe army bike has had coffee, gas, oil, road grime etc. on it and has not stained, it is Sherwin Williams base coat. I have used Mathews paint in two of New England's top sign shops and it is pretty much used without clear for most jobs. We sprayed signs for, Spencer Gifts, Lord and Lady, Champs, Harvard university, etc. Trust me ask your auto paint supplier, or a sign supply co. that has Mathews. If the signs are not going to be side by side you don't need to mix all the paint at once. Paint has come a long way over the years, and it will not be far enough off unless it were on the same pannel.
In Pa you can order Mathews from Glantz.
[ August 07, 2008, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: Dana Stanley ]
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