posted
I have a fiberglass part that I'm making a mold of, it has Omni AU clear on it to allow a bright polish, but dummy me laid the clear on too heavy and it popped.
I'm not worried about the bubbles aesthetically because the part is just for mold production but I need the surface finish absolutely perfect. I can't have any texture created by microscopic bubbles (that have been "opened" by wetsanding/polishing) transferring into the mold surface.
Any autobody-savy guys know of a way to "hide" the solvent pop just at the surface?
Otherwise my plan is re-shooting the clear because that's the only way I see possible. I hope there's another way because I've cut some of the final shaping, very minute details like a barely-visible ridgeline and reveal, into the clear and that would have to be re-done. D'OH!
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
2 problems here....#1 since the part is fiberglass if it solvent popped or cratered it inevitably has solvent that absorbed into the glass itself,just because it cratered doesnt mean it was all released,you need to scuff the surface open and put it under a heat source,since you live inside the assend of hell the sun will work for a day or so,make sure all surface areas get equal exposure.
#2 the way you 'fix' these is to sand down to a level past them,most times as much as a mil underneath the deepest one...good luck trying to determine that one...sometimes people attempt to 'wash' a waterbased colored solution over the panel to fill the holes,or try to ,so that they can stop sanding once the black is gone etc....the method rarely works and is time consuming to try
#3 more likely than not all that clear has to come off
#4 dont let anyone tell you that when this happens they 'scuff it and save it'...trying to fill that with more clear on top of it is futile,and a temporary hack fix which probably stil wont give you the uniform type surface your looking for..........also dont let them say they polish it out,most times when they think they do the holes are filled in with glaze,etc
#5 when you reshoot the clear dont do it like like youi poked one eye out and got your finger stuck in the gun trigger dammit.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
I'm going #3 and starting fresh. This is probably the easiest and fastest method in the end. The clear should be pretty quick to strip and of course it only takes a couple minutes to spray again.
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic