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vinagar on the copper, little salt water on the steel.....and watch it rust))))
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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Set it out the back door of your shop in that spot where you take a leak all the time... should take care of the rusting and oxidation.
Or you could come visit us down here in the deep south and leave it on the back of your truck for a couple days...
Seriously, that's about the coolest thing I've seen in a while. It's gonna be a really nice piece when you're done. The mock-up is very nice as well, looks realistic.
-------------------- Jon Jantz Snappysign.com jjantz21@gmail.com http://www.allcw.com Posts: 3395 | From: Atmore, AL | Registered: Nov 2005
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Hi Jake, If you want to make it rust naturally, you need to remove all protective oils and finishes. You can do that with a good cleaning of muratic acid or by sandblasting. The sandblasting is the method I would prefer, not only does it remove the protective barrier, but it gives a rough peppled finish that will provide an extra dimension for the light to hit the rust. It should rust on it's own in a few days. You can hasten the process by misting it. Heat will also accelerate the process. Misting sun warmed warm steel with hydrogen peroxide, allowing it to dry completely and repeating the process will give you a rich orangy brown matt finish that I think may be what you are aiming for. Avoid pools of moisture unless you are aiming for a patchy appearance. I have notes somewhere on getting copper to patina. I'll see if I can find them later.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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BTW that is soooo nice. How thick is the metal.....You said in your first post that it was steel plate without the letters cut out....did you mean with the letters cut out? If they are cut out will the patinated copper show up in the shadow? If you want it rust realy fast, use a heat gun to warm the metal (not hot hot)and mist with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide/vinegar and salt. The big trick is to get the metal completely exposed. Are you going to seal it once you get the desired look? If not will rain cause the rust to streak and stain the copper areas?
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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I've heard that cow pee is a quick way to oxidize copper, but if you don't want to hang out in the pasture with a gallon bucket, you can also buy a patina agent at a stained-glass supply house.......
BTW, JJ is one FF
-------------------- www.signcreations.net Sonny Franks Lilburn, GA 770-923-9933 Posts: 4115 | From: Lilburn, GA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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This is destined to be a very handsome sign. Great concept.
I'm very familiar with the processes you are using and have a couple of hints. The steel can be oxidised by the acid solution "Light Green Patins" sold by Sculpt Nouveau.
The copper can also be coverted with their acid "Tiffany Green"
These process are part of my Septmeber workshop. It's fun and easy.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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corten steel will continously "weep", drip rust all over everything and discolor anything and everything in its path,ie your lettering and where its cut or welded or paired thru attachment with other metals with a different alloy composition have a different and non controllable "rust" reaction leading to different coloration, and weakening of your attachment points. Stick to regular steel and antique it yourself.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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The formula I have for green patina on copper and brass is: 4 parts vinegar 3 parts ammonia 1 part coarse salt (> salt = >colour) Dissolve together in a spray bottle Clean blank with acetone (or alcohol)
*dampen blank with windex or water saturate with solution using a fine mist cover with plastic tent (do not allow plastic to touch blank) allow to dry slowly readding solution to weaker areas.* Repeat process *-* until desired results are reached
I also have a printout from Science Company that has recipies for all sorts of different patinas but haven't tried any of them.
[ July 07, 2008, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Kelly Thorson ]
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Jake, No suggestions here for the processes but just wanted to say you got a great looking piece there.
-------------------- Bob Noyes Digital Graffiti 310 Main St NE Mapleton, MN 56065 Posts: 130 | From: Mapleton, MN | Registered: Nov 2007
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Thanks for all the great advice guy and gals.
Looks like its gonna be a fun one!
Oh and to answer you question Kelly. The steel is going to be 1/4 plate. The lettering will be cut out of the plate and then a copper piece will be mounted to the back of the steel (stood off about 1/2 inch) as to give some neat shadowing. The bird will be applied right to the face of the steel. And the bird it clear coated so it stay shiny and new.
Again, thanks for all the help guys. Gotta love this place
Sonny, what is "JJ is a FF" Who's JJ and why is he a Frank furter?
-------------------- Snow's Sign Works 865-908-0076 snowman@planetc.com www.snowsigns.com
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message... Posts: 1640 | From: Sevierville, TN | Registered: Jul 2005
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Jake, that's a very nice design in concept. One concern I would have is I have seen several signs done that way where the recessed lettering ends up being in shadow that is too close in color to the rusted front surface making the lettering difficult to read at certain times of day. As long as you do some tests to be sure you have the right depth, you said half inch, and the patina and rust colors have enough contrast between them you should be fine. Just my 2 cents.
-------------------- Chuck Peterson Designs San Diego, CA Posts: 1050 | From: San Diego, CA USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Wow, Kelly sounds like Martha Stewart with a chemical engineering degree, LOL!! I think she nailed the solution (no pun intended) Jake. I would bust your chops, of course, but I gotta hand it to you; this is one classy piece of work bud. ...but I do think you stretched the duck clipart a little too much vertically. You might want to consider a painted patina for the copper; it's hard to control the real deal and get exactly what you're going for - and it changes over time too. BTW, been missing your ugly mug on here; must be time for the midget mud wrestling championships.
-------------------- Ricky Jackson Signs Now 614 Russell Parkway Warner Robins, GA (478) 923-7722 signpimp50@hotmail.com
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." Sir Issac Newton Posts: 3528 | From: Warner Robins, GA | Registered: Oct 2004
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Jake, We Rust our metal the exact way Kelly Recommended but I just take it outside and after sandblasting and hit with the Flame Thrower Weed burner while spraying water on it.. I had a bright orange rust in about 30 minutes. Which allowed us to install the letters then nature took care of the rest in about a week.
posted
Who you calling Martha Stewart, Mr Jackson? I love this kind of stuff, musta been a scientist in a past life.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Yo Jake - - cool sign and I love the swooshy "T".......
I was in Gatlinburg last week on vacation and kept meaning to see if I could stop by quickly, say hi real quick.... but seems like we had every second packed with something to do and time slipped away....
Do you do many signs for G-burg? They had a crapload and a lot of nice ones....
-------------------- Todd Gill Outside The Lines Potterville, MI Posts: 7792 | From: Potterville, MI | Registered: Dec 2001
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-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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I love the Sculpt Noveau patina's. They aren't that expensive, work fast, clean and predictable. It's just a squirt and walk away. The next day your done.
However I don't patina raw metals very much. Nor do I use a rosebud torch with patina's. I'd like to try that but don't have a client base for those kind of signs.
Besides Kelly is better looking than Martha.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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