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Hi everyone... I know we aren't on here much but that's cuz we're so busy painting all the time! Business is great, now that we have been in one spot for awhile! And it's great that y'all are here to help us when we're puzzled We truly appreciate it.
So, last year about this time we asked for help on painting baseball helmets. We did a LOT of experimenting and are still painting helmets. We found a SPRAY CLEAR in the craft section of Wally World, accidentally lol, and it seems to do the trick short of having to use automotive clear. It's called Krylon Kamar Varnish.
Now our Burning Question: We started using TURPENTINE to thin our 1-shot paint [after asking here about problems with Purple and Maroon]. We like it a lot better than enamel reducer for general use, and notice it does seem to hold up better than the plain ole paint thinner did. However, a new problem has arisen! It seems to take a lot loooooooooonger to dry!!! We paint our signs on baked-on aluminum. Any advice? Please help if you can. THANK YOU!!!
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Reducers range from slow to fast. Turpintine is down in the slow range. Slower than mineral spirits ( paint thinner ). If One Shot is to draggy try Penetrol, it's a flow enhancer and doesn't break down the paint.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
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You have found one of those great mysteries of life. You've done something to cure a supposed problem, and created another problem in the process.
Have you tried either the 1 Shot Hardener or an acrylic enamel hardener. They will usually make enamels set up faster.
I think most of the problem is that turpentine in general takes a good while to evaporate, while enamel reducer or paint thinnner will go quicker.
Hope this helps you out. Thanks for the tip on the Kamar clear. Are you painting it over vinyl, or painted lettering, or what?
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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I always found that using "mix and match" formula's was a recipe for disaster.
If using one shot, use all their products.
If using automotive products, use their products.
Why try to out-guess the experts who developed the products??
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
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Thanks, y'all! Will investigate further on your suggestions.
Dale, we paint everything. So the process on the plastic helmets is this: scuff with a gray [not red] ScuffBrite pad. Paint the name and desired picture [such as a flaming baseball]. Let dry overnight or longer. Then lightly spray ONE coat of the Krylon Kamar Varnish, which dries immediately. That's it!
The red pad is too rough. Forgetting to scuff is bad news, plus the key seems to be making sure the paint is completely dry all the way through before clearing. If not, it wrinkles up and you have to start over. The beat-up helmets hold the paint the best. We have not tested this on an "all over" job. Last year we did 61 helmets [a lot of do-overs while we worked on perfecting the method!] Not to say it's perfect yet, but so far, so good.
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The helmets seem to be made of different types of plastic. People have brought them back to show us after use and usually they are fine. One lady even brought one that she wanted the name changed on [to hand down to the next kid] and we had a terrible time getting it off. But there was one helmet last year that just wouldn't hold the paint no matter what. We tell the people there are no guarantees. We only charge $25 here in South Arkansas, which is enough profit for our time and the people don't feel ripped off. It's a living: getting paid to play.
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Business is great, now that we have been in one spot for awhile! And it's great that y'all are here to help us when we're puzzled ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
We truly appreciate it.
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