I usually get Gemini to make plastic formed letters for jobs like these, but they don't offer this font and I think I can do it myself just as easily. I'll either get my buddy to make these with his router or I can use the old jigsaw, depending on what substrate I decide to use.
The installation is on a corrugated metal building, with the ribs being approximately 12 inches apart.
Rather than mess with the hassle of using metal studs (making and hanging pattern, having holes not line up correctly, etc.) I'm leaning towards putting colored sheet metal self-tappers through the faces at each rib. (Minimum viewing distance is > 50 feet, so they wouldn't be seen.)
My question: Can you recommend a substrate I can use that would be rigid enough to span the ribs of the building without buckling. I would also like to use something that I wouldn't have to paint.
I'm leaning toward: 1). Half-inch LusterBoard from Laminators Inc. or Nu-Alum from Nudo (both basically .015" aluminum sandwiched around .5" MDO). Drawback: I'm not sure how well the MDO would weather 2. 3 mm Dibond. Drawback: Not sure 3 mm is thick or rigid enough. 3. 6 mm AlumaCorr. Drawback: Would want to use edgecap; not so easy with the contour of this design 4. 6 mm PVC sheet. Drawback: Is it glossy enough?
What do you suggest? Should I suck it up, use another substrate and paint?
-------------------- Mike Estep SignCrafters of London 303 E. 4th St London Ky 606 862-0003 signcrafters@alltel.net Posts: 89 | From: London, KY | Registered: Dec 1998
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Hiya Mike, I would revisit Gemini and have them laser cut the letters out of their "acrylic". You get a nice, clean product that doesn't need any finishing and it should come with their lifetime guarantee.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
I forgot to add that all you have to do is send them a vector file.
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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First Choice. Dibond or Nudo Won't oilcan or buckle.
MDO Nice Thicker look to the letters Edge Seal and paint and will get many years of great service.
I wouldn't use acrylic as it can really expand and contract and break. Couldn't give me PVC. Alumacore.. You look at it wrong and it dents. Lusterboard Nice materal.. Overpriced Still have to edge seal. Have seen it delaminate.
[ March 28, 2007, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
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I've had the aluminum-clad plywood peel apart like an onion after two years (and yes, I DO know how to seal the edges). All in all, I'd use Dibond. Comes in different colors, cuts easily, is stiff enough for a corrugated wall, won't buckle or dent, doesn't need the edge sealed. Bingo!
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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2lb density expanded (or extruded)polystyrene EIFS finished (Drivit) system. (we like very thick letters )
then HDU (PB or Signfoam)coated with stucco finish (the easy way to finish HDU)
then PVC 6mm (but you do have to paint it and for this job 100% acrylic exterior latex (Sherwin Williams Super Paint) Attention Dave Sherby: We have many jobs in the field with no comebacks or problems. Its the 3mm inch that warps a little.
Then Diabond, an excellent choice also.
There is another product out now that is the knock off of Dibond at much less cost. I think its called Alu-panel and N&F sign supply carriers it.
MDO, MDF, Extera, Plywood, Coroplast, paper, vinyl, glass, plexiglass, mouse pad foam, thrifty white panel, styrene, 040 aluminum, and 1 inch thick steel all bad choices for this job in our opinion.
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This style is so fast and easy to cut yourself. How could you go wrong? No need for a router.Screw through the face and touch up.Use Diebond. Make yourself some quick money!
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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Hiya Mike, To expand on my last comments, here's how I would normally approach a project like this. I would send the file to Gemini and have them laster cut the lettering out of 1/4" - 3/4" acrylic. I've used router cut acrylic in the past, but laser cutting is so much cleaner. When I get the letters back from Gemini, I would print out a paper pattern and cut some strips out of scrap clear 1/4" thick acrylic to make a raceway or 2. The size of the raceways would depend on the height of the letters. The pattern is used to insure proper positioning and spacing, before welding the letters to the raceway with acrylic cement. From there, I would mount the letters to the building using the raceway, using the appropriate fasteners to insure an adequate install. This way there are very few holes in the building and the installation goes quickly. I've never had a problem doing installs this way. The letters from Gemini will come with a lifetime warranty, you'll have a happy client and you could make some good money on this job with very little on-site effort.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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That John Arnot allways make me laugh. He's so right about how easy this font would be to cut with a sabre saw. We both have CNC's but I'd probably use the saw, jut to do it. I bet it would be finished in ten minutes.
Installations gotta be a breeze. A few strips of 3M jelly tape and some pop rivits. We cut 3/4" white vinyl circles to cover the rivits.
Don Nelson sure is a good guy and I appreciate his posting on behalf of Gemini. Hope he continues to keep us up to date.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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