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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Finishing of "new" pressure treated lumber

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Author Topic: Finishing of "new" pressure treated lumber
Lisa Waters
Visitor
Member # 3716

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If anyone is using the new pressure treated lumber for posts...then you know that the leeching of the green liquid is a problem. It is suggested that the posts not be painted for a year. We do not the luxury to do this. I have tried several different primers and multiple coats of paint...I keep getting the same end result and the white posts are REALLY bad. If anyone has encountered this problem and has come up with a solution...PLEASE HELP!!!!! Maybe there is some magic paint that puts a stop to this...I just haven't found it yet.

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Lisa Waters
Sign Design
5851 Cloverdale Rd.
Roanoke,Virginia 24019
(540)977-3354
lisa@signdsign.com

Posts: 12 | From: Roanoke,Virginia | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Checkers
Resident


Member # 63

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Hiya Lisa,
The simple solution would be to not used PT lumber. I think cedar is just as good, if not better. Plus it's normally stored out from the elements, so you don't have to wait for it to dry before you finish it.
If you still want to use pressure treated wood, just use a water based primer and paint and be prepared to make another trip to the site for some touch up.

Havin' fun,

Checkers

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a.k.a. Brian Born
www.CheckersCustom.com
Harrisburg, Pa
Work Smart, Play Hard

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Bill Lynch
Resident


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We don't paint fresh ones, we stain them.
Cedar is a good option.
PVC post wraps are nice if it's in the budget.

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Bill Lynch
Century Sign
Hamden, CT
centurysign@snet.net

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Tony Lucero
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Member # 1470

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Agree with Checkers on the Cedar...another good feature, is it is generally straighter and has less knots.

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Tony Lucero
Eagle Graphics
Waterford, MI
www.eaglegph.com

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Mike Faig
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The last issue of SignCraft has a good article with regards to attaching boards to the posts.  -

[ March 21, 2007, 11:57 AM: Message edited by: Mike Faig ]

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Mike
gatlinburg Sign Crafters

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Paul Luszcz
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We use fir. Cheaper than cedar, easier to paint, looks the same when it's finished.

Both are far better than PT.

By the way, vinyl post covers are not more expensive than painting pressure treated posts if you value your time fairly.

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Paul Luszcz
Zebra Visuals
27 Water Street
Plymouth, MA 02360
508 746-9200
paul@zebravisuals.com

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Si Allen
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WARNING!

Use ONLY galvanized or stanless steel nails and/or screws on the new pressure treated lumber!

The high content of copper in the new PT wood causes plain iron to rust away to nothing due to electrolysis...and everything falls apart!

[Bash] [Bash] [Bash]

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Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA

(714) 521-4810

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siallen@dslextreme.com

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Cam Bortz
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PT is crap - always has been. It's the cheapest of yellow pine, goes into the PT process as wet, green wood, and comes out as wet, greener wood that won't rot quite as soon as non-treated wood. I don't think the limited decay resistance is a fair trade off for posts that split, twist, warp, and can't be painted.

I use a copper-based wood treatment at Home Depot. I soak the bottom of a fir or cedar post in this stuff for a couple of days, then paint the above-ground portion. I'd much rather do that much extra work in advance, than have to go around re-painting posts on site.

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"A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle


Cam Bortz
Finest Kind Signs
Pondside Iron works
256 S. Broad St.
Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379
"Award winning Signs since 1988"

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Mark Tucker
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Lisa, to answer your question, yes, there is a solution. Prime the post with any old primer, then paint with an alkyd paint. It takes a long time to dry, but there shouldn't be any bleed-through. Works for me.

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Mark Tucker
Custom Carved Signs
Gainesville, Ga.

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Dana Stanley
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I did custom finish carpentry for 18 years and have to agree with Cam. But on a "high end signs" I use aluminum. For larger ones steel wrapped with aluminum.

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Dana Stanley
Mass.
(508) 234-8193
http://stanleyphotographer.com

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Dana Blair
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I was just at my pvc post supplier last week (a local Amish vinyl fence company) and they now have the pvc post sleeves with a woodgrain finish and multiple colors.

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Dana Blair
Blair Signs
Wooster, OH
www.blairsigns.com

If sign makers go on strike, is there anything written on their picket signs?

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Rick Sacks
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I've found better results with the brown pressure treated posts than the green.

Last year we did a job where we spread latex caulking on the posts to fill in those cut marks and then textured them with it to look like a spanish plaster. We painted over the caulking.

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California

http://www.mendosign.com

Making the simple complicated is commonplace;
making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus

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Mark Tucker
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I use cheap crappy P.T. post for cheap customers and temporary signs that don't have to be real "purdy". Real estate signs are a good example, and I've planted several dozen of 'em this week. Pays well. It would make no sense to try and sell these folks cedar, aluminum, or even PVC sleeves when all they want is a cheap sign in the ground until the property sells.

The new P.T. lumber is supposed to be safer to handle, cut and machine. It certainly looks better. The old green stuff was some nasty wicked wood.

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Mark Tucker
Custom Carved Signs
Gainesville, Ga.

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bruce ward
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trateed lumber does suck. it takes looking thru 60 boards to find a good crooked one. we still use pressure treated for temp signs but using pvc post ofr other. I prime pressure treated with flat latex and topcoat with latex semigloss. I usually have about 8 4x4 at shop to "dry out"

I prime my pvc post with epxy primer and spray latex on that. oil based is not worth a damn anymore and do not use it

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VISUAL IMAGES
MONTGOMERY, AL


Posts: 2033 | From: Montgomery, AL, usa | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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