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A signpainter friend of mine has some Anchor #111 Sandblast Mask which is pretty thick - 43 mil. I may cut a stencil for him on my Graphtec FC5100-75, but we're not sure if I can cut that particular mask on a plotter or not.
Has anyone tried it? If so what blade should I get? Or is there any other mask you'd recommend to use on that plotter? It would be for redwood or cedar.
Thanks in advance!
-------------------- Tracie Johnson Signovations Ventura, California Posts: 444 | From: Ventura, California | Registered: Nov 2005
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I am not sure of that type mask, but I use a rubber mask (green) with my cutter for my glass etching and signs. I have a differt blade 60 degree instead of the normal 45 degree, I also slow down the speed on the cutter if I have much detail to cut.
-------------------- Tom Davis Hilltop Graphics 41665 Fenwick Street Leonardtown, MD 20650 Posts: 39 | From: MD | Registered: Nov 2005
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tracie,hi. we have a graghtec, like mentioned 60 degree blade will work best. crank up the force,25 for us, 2 speed on dial-set up.. The anchor color a faded light blue ?-that's what we just cut for a job. had to use Duck Tape instead of Transfer tape, we didn't have any super high tacky TR. good luck
-------------------- mark zilliox mark z signs 8425 pushaw station rd. owings md. 20736 301-855-5407 thezs@earthlink.net http://www.markzsigns.com Posts: 348 | From: maryland | Registered: May 2003
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posted
The light blue/green mask is Hartco 721, I think. It's the only mask I cut on my Summa D series plotter. 60 degree blade also. Tracie, if what you're trying to use is that thick, it's designed for hand cutting and probably won't work. I couldn't use it in my set up.
-------------------- Bill Dirkes Cornhole Art LLC Bellevue, Ky. Goodnight Mrs. Calabash, wherever you are. Posts: 591 | From: Bellevue,Ky. US | Registered: Aug 1999
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I believe Anchor 111 is medium tac. You must be careful when attaching it to wood as it may lift during the blasting. The 116 is preferable for wood. This is a rubber products and is temp sensative. It can be difficult to cut when cold, so warm it up.
Anchor mask comes with a powdered surface which should be wiped down before transfer tape is applied. Otherwise you'll have trouble getting it to stick. When you are ready to apply, flip the mask over on it's front and roll the clear plastic off. You won't do as well trying to pull the mask of the plastic. We apply the whole thing prior to weeding. That way there is less letter distortion.
Because this material is so expensive, we allways make several trial cuts. This is a one inch upper case Helvetica E. This is so important as the material varies in consistancy and is seceptable to temperature variables.
I've been cutting Anchor for twenty years and have found it much easier to cut than Hartco, but Hartco has much more resistance to sand pressure. Since we have a tractor feed plotter, we make three passes on the Hartco. We prefer that.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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We cut Anchor 155 with our Graphtec on a regular basis. I think it's 116 or 17 that we do also. Same as the 155 omly a 30" roll instead of 19". The stuff with the orange release liner doesn't work well in a friction feed cutter, but the ones with clear seem to go fine. I only use the high tack rubber, and high tack transfer tape and weed before applying to wood. I also find I get better results with the pinch rollers on the rubber than on the exposed liner edges. When cutting large items we set our program to cut in two foot panels also so the travel is minimized.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6713 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I don't believe there are many tractor fed plotters left. Not much call for them. We don't use ours much. Most of our SB mask is applied directly to the sign panel and cut with the CNC. No transfer needed.
J.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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Thanks so much everyone for your replies, lots of good tips here.
My friend, Al Quigg, has decided to go ahead and do this one by hand this time. I did a pen plot for him. His business is Woodcrafter Signs and he specializes in sandblasted signs so he is quite familiar with that particular stencil. We just were not sure if it would work on my plotter. He actually uses a 2 1/2" scotch type tape to tranfer the mask, and he gets it at the 99 cent store.
We will in the future though, colaborate quite a bit on some jobs so I'm going to go ahead and get prepared. I just ordered a 60 degree blade so I'll do some tests. I would have never considered the temperature, so thanks for that tip. My last boss used Hartco brand, though he's only done a couple of sandblast signs total. I remember some small, maybe one inch helvetica seemed to distort somewhat when he cut it.
It would be really nice to try a few different brands, I wonder if anyone sells it by the yard. I have a feeling the 111 is going to be to thick and soft, so maybe we'll give the 155 a try.
And I know what you mean Rick, by putting the rollers on the mask, I've even had problems with vinyl when they are on the backing paper, I'm sure it's much worse with the sandblast.
The last sandblast signs I did were back at my dad's shop over 20 years ago. I seem to remember the mask we used was called Buttercut. I didn't get a chance to do a lot of signs, but I do remember they were my favorite, so I'm really looking forward to getting the chance to do more.
-------------------- Tracie Johnson Signovations Ventura, California Posts: 444 | From: Ventura, California | Registered: Nov 2005
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Tracie, I've found times when all I had was some of that slip and slide rubber and I put app tape on the back side and then it had good traction. I've even run strips on masking tape along where the rollers go at times when I needed the added grip. Buttercut was the 3M brand.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6713 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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On page four of this link they have a nice table showing the size, thickness, hand or machine cut, high or medium tack and other useful information.
111 – Designed specifically for hand-cutting. Panels can be replaced accurately and easily. Superior shape carving. Easier cutting means less wear on instruments. White release liner removes easily. Use with Intertape®/Anchor Filler #211.
112 – A convertible stencil designed for hand or machine cutting without reversing the liner. Extra-heavy red liner is designed for controlled release. Superior shape carving; easy, accurate panel replacement. Use with Intertape®/ Anchor Filler #211.
116 – A high-tack computer stencil for use on raw wood surfaces and urethane foamboard. 15" features trimmed edges and a strong, clear film liner that offers easy alignment and smooth, precise running on computerized sign-making machines. The 30" width tracks only on large pin plotters and the stencil rubber extends to the edge of liner. CAUTION: #116 has a very aggressive adhesive and is not recommended for use on some woods without first testing a sample piece. Do not use on prepainted, pretreated or glass surfaces.
117 – Designed for use with computerized cutting machines. Trimmed edges on 15" roll allows smooth and easy tracking through the machine. A strong, clear film liner provides extra rigidity. The 15" width will track through most computer cutters. The 30" width will track only through a large pin plotter and the stencil rubber extends to the edge of liner. After letters and designs are cut, they must be taped for transferring the stencil to stone. Use with Intertape®/Anchor Filler #211.
153 – For use on friction-fed cutters. Can be used safely on pretreated and prepainted wood, urethane foamboard, glass, tile and acrylic. Rubber is trimmed back 1/2" along each edge so the wheels can clamp down on the 5-mil polyester film liner and carry the stencil through the computer. Since this type of plotter has no sprockets, holes are unnecessary (as in other computer stencils). Sizes available: 19-7/8" and 24" widths.
155 – Same construction as #153 stencil, except this product has a water-based acrylic adhesive, rather than petroleum-based. Adhesion level is much higher than #153. Rubber is trimmed back 1/2" along each edge so the wheels can clamp down on the 5-mil polyester film liner and carry the stencil through the computer. Used on raw wood and urethane foamboard. CAUTION: #155 has a very aggressive adhesive and is not recommended for use on some woods without first testing a sample piece. Do not use on prepainted, pretreated or glass surfaces. Available in 197⁄8" and 24" widths.
156 – Same construction as our high-tack #116 computer stencil, except that the hole pattern is for use on standard 1/2" on center sprocket machines and edges are trimmed. Available in 30" width. CAUTION: #156 has a very aggressive adhesive and is not recommended for use on some woods without first testing a sample piece. Do not use on prepainted, pretreated or glass surfaces. Note: #156 will not work on the large pin 30" plotter; Style #116 is recommended for this use.
[ January 21, 2007, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
Like Bill, I use the Hartco on my Summa D-60 with a 60 degree blade. (where is the degree symbol anyway?) Runs great and holds incredible detail. The orange-backed Anchor brand has been relegated to hand-cut status only.
I would also like to throw a plug in here for Hartco - they were a very generous sponsor for the Dixie Meet and many of you met Chris Hartenstein (the head honcho himself) at the Sign Circus......
-------------------- www.signcreations.net Sonny Franks Lilburn, GA 770-923-9933 Posts: 4115 | From: Lilburn, GA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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My main suppliers do not carry the Hartco product line or I'd definatly be inclined to try them again. As I recall from many years back when I used their product as a hand cut mask that left a trail, long before there were computers cutting rubber, a portion of every dollar I spend with them goes as a tithe to a ministry helping others. Thank you Hartco for your example.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6713 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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