posted
HEY EVERYONE Hope all is well....I am doing some silverleaf on a set of tanks and fenders and it seems the size is not dry .....i did it like always waiting til the size felt right to the knuckle and then applying my leaf but when i went to turn the leaf it just smears like the size is not dry.....just wondering if any one had run in to this problem and if so how they took care of it.....do i just need to give it some time ....or heaven forbid start over ....as always thank ya kindly for the help it is greatly appreciated ....T
-------------------- Curtis Denton Classic Air and Graphics Knightdale, N.C. http://www.classicairandgraphics.com "We'll paint anything that rolls, flies,wiggles,giggles,floats,slithers or slides Posts: 40 | From: Knightdale, N.C. | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Obviously the size didn't get tacky enough before you applied the leaf. Now I suspect you have drowned the leaf, so you'd probably be best to wipe it all off and start over.
The problem could be old size...I have seen quick size (LeFranc), take more than 12 hours to dry because it had gotten too old (or possibly contaminated). If everything is working properly, you should be able to gild in the 2-3 hour range. Everything, of course, depends on temp and humidity.
that's my take on it....
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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alot depends on the brand of size, temp, humidity etc. was the size thick when you applied it? I like one shot quick for small jobs like this and white gold instead of silver, it's thinner and easier to get a smooth look and almost the same colour. I can usually gild one shot quick in as little as an hour, and still have good tack for the lighter tinner leaf up to 5 hours plus, but heavy leaf like comp, varigated, aluminum and copper need a stronger tack, usually in the 45 min range, again totally dependent on shop conditions and application. I f it felt to be the right tack on the surface but was too wet underneath, my guess would be old bad size or more likely too thick of an application. Unlike enamel, a thin layer of size is best for a quicker gild, higher burnish and more thorough dry before clear coating, if necessary. Sorry, if you've started to gild and it didn't work out, the only solution is to strip and resize, a customer who is willing to pay for gilding deserves the best end result. p.s. if you want a shinier metal look instead of that satin glow, try aluminum leaf, but it's also heavy so expect more minor cracks, or crumple up tranfer tape sticky side out and use to pull bits of leaf off for a really cool distressed look, don't tint the size for this one though so the background colour shows, and be careful if claering with urethane
-------------------- Pete Payne Willowlake Design/Canadian Signcrafters Bayfield, ON
posted
These guys have answered you questions pretty well I'd say. Working with any kind of leaf is an on going learning process. You won't relise or recognise any of your mistakes until you actually experience them. The most common mistakes are usually gilding too soon and laying the size on too heavy. Unfortunately the only fix for the problem is a complete redo. I'm gonna assume you are working with aluminum leaf instead of actual silver leaf. The composition leafs while thicker and easier to handle are actually a little harder to work with. Since they are thicker, they don't like to stcik to a dryier tack. Your "window" is smaller. Finding a good size that will work well in your area is very important. Jeff mentioned LeFranc quick size going bad. I tried LeFranc quick a number of times and in this area it would still be sticky 24 hours later
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
All the answers above are right on from a gilders point of view but then again.
Everyone gets a problem once in a while but getting on to repair the problem at hand is fairly simple concluding the paint was done they way its supposed to be and as long as your work on the sheet metal was done above the first few clearcoats there shouldn't be a problem removing the sizing etc. Of course if the sizing was put on the base coat and the painter didn't lay on the clearcoat and then color sand and make ready for the artist, a problem or two could arise. These are known facts that clearcoats always go over the base to protect it from the artist so mistakes can be wiped off and the base not harmed.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Hey yall Thank yall for your wisdom and advice ..Since i did the complete job and know i have a few coats of clear for protection ....I will remove and redo the job .small price to pay for doin the right way.....Thanks again as always yall have helped me out .....T
-------------------- Curtis Denton Classic Air and Graphics Knightdale, N.C. http://www.classicairandgraphics.com "We'll paint anything that rolls, flies,wiggles,giggles,floats,slithers or slides Posts: 40 | From: Knightdale, N.C. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Wow, Curtis, that yellow fender piece...looks like you've stood in on some Major Surgery operations at the Hospital!!!
John
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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