I am guilding a carved teak wood name board for a boat. acually it is a restore. i stripped cleaned and re-cleared it with marine spar varnish. backed the letteres with imation gold one shot and about to slow size it and i know the leaf with stick to the varnish.
now some were in the back of my head some one said use egg white to coat the board so the gold won't stick to the varnish or was it a dusting with whiting. then size the letter guild, out line and wash the egg or whiting off....
could some one hold my hand and let me know which to use and some experences i might need to take heed of.
chris
God,... it is took late to pull out the dictionary! bare with my spelling.
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Chris Lovelady Vital Signs
NOW WITH 2 LOCATIONS! Tallahassee, Florida Thomasville, Ga.
posted
Those will both work, but I don't like whiting! Use kaolin or slice a potato and rub it on there to deposit some starch. The size will work right thru it! Clean it off with a damp rag when done.
[ July 19, 2006, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Si Allen ]
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Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8831 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Chris...can't give you any advise about gilding on teak...all I can say is good luck...
Teak has a natural oil that likes being re-oiled but dislikes being "painted" with anything.
Trust me on this..the Marine spar varnish you applied will need stripping and re-applying within about 12 to 24 months, depending on conditions (probably 12 months)
Doing a gild on teak (even if it is varnished "temporarily") is like trying to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse.
(Just my opinion and just my experience with teak over a short 25 years..PLEASE let us know next year how the job held up???)
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
i did the job about 2 years ago and it just came back to me gold held up ok the varnish di dnot...i know nothing will stick to it bt the guy will pay to have i stripped and redone every couple years. first coat of marine spar went on thined down like water. soak in good did the second coat the same way ( sprayed all the varnish on). sealed back as well. i"m with you on the redo part Dave. but some people got more money that sence.
raw potatoe...ok ill bite. how would you aplly the egg white..a good wip and a pastry brush?
thanks for the quick reply check back in the morning.
chris
-------------------- "We have been making house calls since 1992"
Chris Lovelady Vital Signs
NOW WITH 2 LOCATIONS! Tallahassee, Florida Thomasville, Ga.
posted
I`ve been varnishing teak for the last 30 years without any problems. Maybe check with a local high end boatyard paintshop to see what they are using for varnish. We have also had good luck with awlgrip on teak. As for the gold sticking, go with the potato or powder. If any does stick lighter fluid on a rag works well.
-------------------- Bob & Marcia Peach Peach Signs Inc Sandwich, MA rpeach9828@aol.com Posts: 1021 | From: Sandwich, MA | Registered: Jan 2002
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posted
potatoes work good and they were the cure for softening quills so you could insert a handle into a softened quill stuff the quill into a potato leave it for half a day then insert the handle when it dried.. it shrinked and was fast to the handle and.... potaotes can then be used to make french fries I like to dust the surface with talc too blow off excess with an air gun
posted
Another vote for kaolin, applied with a soft makeup brush or gilders mop. Potato does work good too, but I find it easier to get the kaolin everywhere I want it. And to clean up any gold that does get stuck to where you dont want it, good old rapidtac-I on a q-tip lifts it right off.
-------------------- Tim Rieck Signs Halfmoon Bay, BC Posts: 736 | From: Halfmoon Bay, BC, Canada | Registered: Sep 2000
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posted
I Like Kaolin or talc. The Kaolin is in a little tin with a makeup puff thing. The talc I just dump into a bit of old T-shirt, tie it off, and dab it on like you would a pounce pattern, only not as hard. A damp rag will get off any gold that wanders.
Potato and egg white (you can apply with a throw away foamie) work well too, I'd just rather eat them
-------------------- Jon Androsky Posts: 438 | From: Williamsport, PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
I use a light dusting of regular .69 cent baby powder (talc,..not corn starch). I dust it on with a cosmetic brush, and remove all of the excess really well.
You should barely be able to tell it is on there. I dust every surface, and size right over it.
I personally don't understand why I would want to put egg or potato on a sign, only to have to wash it off? Just doesn't make sense to me.
Good luck, Bob
-------------------- "The 3-4 minute mark of "Freewill" by Rush.
Bob Kaschak Artisan Sign And Design Peru New York Posts: 1913 | From: Upstate NY | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
I had to glue up (laminate) some very naturally oily timbers with epoxy resin back in 2000, and they let go shortly afterwards. I was told by a friend to wash the oiliness off them with metho. (methylated spirits, denatured alcohol, ethanol...) and reglue them. They were fine after that, and still are OK.
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"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7017 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
I use the egg white, like in the Gold Leaf Techniques book, egg white mixed with cold water and brushed on. After gilding wipe off with cotton balls & water. I never liked any of the powders, maybe I put it on too heavy. As for teak, I've done it, but no varnish, just primed and painted the letters, then gilded and sealed with 2 part clear, afterwards the teak would be oiled, lasted quite a while. Most of the boat work I do is on mahogany, the wood is prepped to the point of the final coat, then I gild and the lettering gets varnished with several coats, after that it can be lightly sanded and recoated every year.
posted
The egg white thing, Chris, is to take a soupcan, fill about 2/3 with water, then add the white of one egg....then shake real good. you will have a cloudy liquid. Strain this through cheesecloth, then "paint" it on the area to be gilded. When dry, you can size over it and gild.
My experience is that the gold will stick to the eggsize like crazy, resulting in alot of waste. It cleans off easy with a damp piece of cotton, but I prefer to use the powder or kaolin method. Any places that the gold stays stuck can be cleaned up using lighter fluid on a cotton ball.
I don't know about the slow size...aren't you going to engine turn the gold? I always heard not to use slow size when engine turning and clearing over that.
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
another option is jeweler's rouge - i like it better that whiting or talc, cleans off easier, leaves less residue (never tried the potato technique)
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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