posted
With the cost of HDU going through the roof, I'm starting to take a look at other possible substrates, namely Exteria. I know it's heavy as hell and a dusty mess to rout, but it cost SUBSTANTIALLY less than HDU and my local sign supply company says it "routs beautifully".
On another forum (ShopBot), one guy complained about paint adhesion (or lack thereof), blaming it on the oils in the material that evidently make it "weather-proof". He posted a pic that shows where the paint just peeled right off the face of a rather large v-grooved sign. I don't know if he preped and primed it right. One thing I like about HDU is that you don't have to prime it. (I don't anymore.)
Any of you guys/gals been using Exteria? Done any routed signs that have been "out in the elements" for at least a year? If so, what do you say about it? If you're pleased, did you use any special primers and/or paints? If you are not happy with it, please explain why.
Mucho Thanks in Advance!
Mark
[ May 01, 2006, 08:44 PM: Message edited by: Mark Tucker ]
posted
Exteria has a 5 year warrenty, if I'm not mistaken.
We are taking the wait and see route.
As far as primers and paints go, my choice would be high end water base / acrylic latex applied with a quality HVLP spray painting.
One suggestion is to check with your local Sherwin Williams Store for "Superpaint" ... its good stuff.
But if you want a sign that needs no paint before or after CNC routing, then POLYTONE is the way to go.
Super plastic-type material with the face one color and the interior another color. Throw it on the router, cut it, and install it...done! NO PAINTING.
posted
I like using Extira because it's solid and unbreakable. Better than MDO because it has a smoother surface with no woodgrain and boat patches so prevalent in MDO these day. And I love not having to patch voids and splinters on the edges. However I find that Extira is much harder on blades and router bits than any other wood. No idea why!
As for Extira's weathering ability.... I'm not taking any chances. I seal/encapsulate it with 2-part polyurethane manufactured locally as a water reservoir sealer and then prime and paint with acrylic latex. I'm sure this polyurethane product would seal MDF for exterior use.
I am resistant to using HDU for exterior signs because several jobs I've done with it were dented by the first hailstorm that came along. If I have to hardcoat HDU to survive hail then I may as well use a more solid and less expensive material in the first place.
-------------------- Happy Signing...... Marty
M.F. (Marty) Happy Signmaker Since 1974 Happy Ad Sign & Design Regina SK, Canada S4N 5K4 306-789-9567 happyad@sasktel.net www.happyad.ca
Get Happy & Get Noticed! Posts: 773 | From: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada | Registered: Jan 1999
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posted
I have used it with success, as far as longevity time will tell but seeing the material makes me believe it will do well.
Painting - its waterproof so obviously waterbased paints do not stick. We used automotive primers that stuck very well and topcoated with Matthews.
Routing - Lots of dust, we have a dust collector on our router so its not bad when its running but there is always a lot of material left in the cracks and its so silty it makes a nasty mess & very slippery on the floor.
I have stopped using it as I prefer HDU - easier to route and much lighter. Its true that the Extira is very dense so it will not dent easy but its just as fragile as HDU when it comes to breakage. I used it on some large thin stroke letters hoping it would be tougher than HDU, no such luck.
There are some good uses though such as hanging blade signs that may be subject to abuse - giving you the thickness you need.
-------------------- Brian Stoddard Northwest Wholesale Signs
Depending on the application, you may want to use an exterior grade surface sealer before a prime coat. As you suspect, because of Extira's water resistant properties, latex primer/paint systems are not recommended for applications that require high primer/surface adhesion, such as using sand mask agents or masking tapes.
For signs that do not require masking, a high quality exterior latex primer/paint system will work fine for long term performance. Just be sure the paint is fully cured before handling.
For more technical information on using Extira for signs, go to the following link:
posted
We have used it for a number of projects. One strange thing that happened to us was that the surfaces of the substrate that had been cut into (ie. the facets of incised lettering) became all fuzzy-like AFTER they were primed. Now they sanded smooth with no trouble, but the project had 50 signs in it so it wound up being quite a pain in the a.... uh, tushie.
The primer was Grip Guard Universal HB. That's a urethane, sorta. We use the whole Grip Guard system for pretty much everything.
-------------------- Jon Androsky Posts: 438 | From: Williamsport, PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
Been Using Extira for a little over 3 years now with very good success. We use Automotive High Build Primer (same primer we use on HDU) on it and havent had a single problem yet. We get the Fuzzys also on some parts but cleans up very quick. Extira is very hard on Saws and router bits due to all the Glues and Resins. But all in all a great product vs HDU as a price point.
posted
We always get the raised fuzzies after the first coat of high build urathane primer but it sands very easy. I do know that it has held up well to my coffee stains for at least a year now
-------------------- Brian Stoddard Northwest Wholesale Signs
posted
well i took a look at the 2 or 3 yr old piece...i forget how much time has passed...and ya know its holding up pretty darn good...i actually had it in the brook all winter the first year...then on my back deck where it gets southern exposure...i've beat the crap outta it ocassionally throwing it down into the small rocks and stomping the crap outta it...so it gets some open wound dents. the one shot black has held up like shyt but the extira isn't all swelled like i thought it would be...i think i may try using this stuff...depending on the application it could be a decent alternative for me...the only down fall i see is that its heavy as hell! i nearly got a hernia putting it on my table by myself...never mind 1" thick or more...i'd need help on that sheet for sure!
-------------------- Karyn Bush Simply Not Ordinary, LLC Bartlett, NH 603-383-9955 www.snosigns.com info@snosigns.com Posts: 3516 | From: Bartlett, NH USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
Hi yall, Thought I'd share my view on that one.
Pros:Low price and durability. I use it on 90% of my jobs. I paint it with water based paints, with primer sealer, I found (two 4X8 signs peeled off when I took of the masks!!!) it helps to give the primer a good 12 to 24 hour drying time, 8 for finishing coats(no problem since). I only use hdu if an existing structure is weak or if the sign will be hanging above people! Extira is easy to sculpt,routes great,resists weather well. My oldest extira sign is 6 years old and standing close to a highway where passing trucks throw snow, stones,sand name it. It is as good looking as the day I put it up there. The paint is beginning to fade and the owner asked me to repaint it. I could not believe how well it ages. Cons: The unusal bit wear is caused by the phenolic glue which is rather corrosive. I dip my router bits in acetone every time I take' em off the router (no tool changer yet)to wash away the phenolic remains. That gives them longer life. The weight is backbreaking. I even thought of selling my signs by the pound ($$$$$)lol.
Alternatives: I also use pvc for hi gloss jobs.
Dan
-------------------- Daniel Gervais (dgd34@hotmail.com on MSN messenger) Atelier d'enseignes Bois et Passions (Wood and Passions signshop) www.enseignesbp.com 75 rue Luc St-jean sur richelieu, Qc,Can dgervais@enseignesbp.com Posts: 74 | From: Saint Jean sur Richelieu, Qc ,Canada | Registered: Apr 2005
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