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as much as I enjoy goldleaf, sometimes it's a nice break to use other metal leafs. I've just recently used varigated leaf on an antler for an outfitters sign. That was a treat, but now I've got another request for copperleaf. As much as I like the copper, I don't feel it lasts well outdoors without a questionable patina.
I know this is a "special" nuiance that should be appreciated, but I'd really like to know if any of you have expierence using an acid of sorts to "pre-patina" the metal??
-------------------- Matthew Rolli AdCraft Sign&Design Hudson, WI Posts: 280 | From: Hudson, WI | Registered: Aug 2003
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You can get copper sulfate green patina from stained glass suppliers and experiment until you get the look you want. How durable will it be? I don't know, but would try to protect it with some kind of clear...
The day's young...someone'll know more than this. But I would start with copper sulfate.
-------------------- Frank Smith Frank Smith Signs Albany, NY www.franksmithsigns.com Posts: 807 | From: Albany, NY USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I have used a half of a lemon dipped in salt to scrub and CLEAN copper, but I don't know if that is what you are after.... We tried different things (when I was a jewelry major in college) to get that turquoise color patina on copper and finally decided that it just had to age to get that. There really wasn't anything that turned it that color immediately. ...let us know what you try and if it works.
-------------------- Jane Diaz Diaz Sign Art 628 W. Lincoln Ave. Pontiac, Il. 61764 815-844-7024 www.diazsignart.com Posts: 4102 | From: Pontiac, IL USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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Try a book called "The Coloring, Bronzing and Patination of Metals" by Richard Hughes and Michael Rowe - ISBN 0-442-23170-9. It has pages and pages of receipes and directions on how to apply the patinas.
Of course, they were talking about solid metal objects and some of the ideas may be too harsh for copper leaf but they do tell you how to get the blue/green verdigris color - and how to protect the patina once you have the color you want. The book is not cheap but you can always ask your local librarian to get it for you. As my mother, the librarian, used to say "Your question IS my business."
-------------------- Sarah King - Angel Gilding Supplies 708-383-3340 sarahk@angelgilding.com Posts: 27 | From: Oak Park IL USA | Registered: Sep 2003
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I don't know what the chemical is but it's readily available and turns basically as soon as it dries (get's only slightly more pronounced overnite). I wanted to reinforce what Sarah said about the process being "too harsh for copper leaf". One project we did had completely eaten through the leaf in less than a year, down to the size coat.
Shortly after that the business moved so I never got to find out what might have prevented it, and we never used that process since. I think it's inherently unstable because of the leaf being so thin.
The patina is basically a dust, so I have no idea what a clear coating might have looked like - although it would surely have to be sprayed on not brushed, so as not to disturb the powder. Double or triple leafing before oxidizing? Thicker leaf?
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm not too sure what you are doing with the copper but I met a guy that would carve out his designs/letters in MDF and hammer thin copper sheets to the shape of the MDF form. They were really nice, detailed too and looked really good with the patina on them. They were thick enough to stand acids/solutions for the patina although I'm not sure what they are or where to find this guy again. I worked with him for a few months and then he moved on to the eastern US somewhere.
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