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My Versa-Camm is still fairly new to me and I'm not shure on how to best protect the printed vinyl.My wife and I just moved 240 miles so all of my old accounts are gone and income is very limited.I know a laminator is the best solution but spending $500-$2500 is not going to happen yet.Dose anyone know if there are other products out there to protect the printed vinyl?
-------------------- Phil Swanson Lake George Lettering 151 New Hague Rd. Hague, NY 12836 lakegeorgelettering@yahoo.com Posts: 24 | From: 151 New Hague Rd. Hague, NY 12836 | Registered: Oct 2005
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I experimented with all types of clear and I really feel safest using a vinyl laminate. Before I bought my laminator, I was applying the laminate with rapid tac using a center hinge on the larger pieces. The rapid tac doesn't seem to effect the print and it allows you to squeegy out all the liquid leaving a nicely laminated print. Make sure you turn your heat off before reloading the laminated print to be cut or you will have little bubbles form.
You should try doing a search for past posts about liquid laminates. We've discussed it quite a bit and there is some good information. My favorite finish was the clearstar, but it was hard to apply without getting brush strokes. Then I had it peel off some license plates, and I was afraid of its durability after that. Some really like it though. I laminate with film now and have no worries.
Suelynn
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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I used to use the 1shot 4005 for my UV coat on Edge prints. I had some trouble with it smearing the print a little. Had to be REAL careful to just "lay it down" and not brush it around. Then I started hearing about it giving people problems with getting soft in hot weather etc, so when i got my VersaCamm I decided to switch to the Clearstar product. Mostly because I like and trust Steve Berman (former Chromatic Co.) and I was impressed with their chemical guy when I met him at a tradeshow. The only problem I am having is getting it to flow out nice for smaller work. I have tried foam roller, foam brush, wool pad applicator, etc. It leaves either brush strokes or stipple finish. On big stuff meant to be seen far away it is not a problem, but I want the smaller stuff and the truck graphics to look good CLOSE UP too. Anyone got a good solution for this? In fact I think I will start another thread about it too. Thanks.
I'm with Si, on this one. That's what we have on our shelve also.
-------------------- Al Checca Kidney dialysis Pt. wizard42171967@yahoo.com Posts: 261 | From: Latrobe just outside Pittsburgh Pa in Latrobe | Registered: Aug 2001
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that stuff above is certainly not the answer for a versacamm...it definitely reactivates in the sun...but thats only my experience. i hate doing stuff over for free...do yourself a favor and scrape, scrounge, beg and borrow and get yourself a good laminator.
-------------------- Karyn Bush Simply Not Ordinary, LLC Bartlett, NH 603-383-9955 www.snosigns.com info@snosigns.com Posts: 3516 | From: Bartlett, NH USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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Rollagaurd is better than any of the stuff listed above...it dries way quicker, and doesn't get gooey in the sun like Frog Juice and the others...
Clearshield is "ok" but doesn't hold a candle to Rollagaurd. Rollagaurd weeds very nicely and much easier than Clearshield.
We tried them all....and short of a laminator, Rollagaurd gets top honors. Plus, I should mention it is more scratch/scuff resistant than the others.
Frog Juice is the worst...One Shot not much better.
Karyn, in the end, gives the best advice.
-------------------- Todd Gill Outside The Lines Potterville, MI Posts: 7792 | From: Potterville, MI | Registered: Dec 2001
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There you go Diane.....I use a 3" wide foam brush.
The key(s) are these:
1.) Get yourself a small plastic painters tray...poor a SMALL amount of Rollaguard in. 2.) Dip your foam brush in and apply to your print in even, overlapping horizontal strokes. 3.) You don't need a thick coat, so quickly brush it out after applying, but DO NOT over-work it because it begins drying quickly and it can start showing brush strokes if you keep brushing the same spot as it begins to dry-out. 4.) Trust me - after you apply it wet, it looks white-ish; like milk almost....but again, don't over-brush it - the brush marks will flow-out and in about 10 minutes the milky appearance will disappear and it will turn glossy, smooth, and crystal clear. 5.) Generally recommended to let it dry a day....but I have flashed over it with a heat gun until it really felt dry and applied it early in a pinch - although this is not the recommended way. 6.) Best to apply a transfer tape over your print and then apply, because it can be scratched with a hard squeegie if you apply it without - so I prefer to let the transfer tape take the abuse, and then after the print/graphic is applied I will wet the transfer tape to make it flimsy and easier to pull off - and then remove the transfer tape.
One gallon sells for about $75 bucks....but it goes a loooong way - again, don't put it on thick - as it only takes a very thin coating.
It is lick a thick water, not a thick paint consistency.
Good luck.
-------------------- Todd Gill Outside The Lines Potterville, MI Posts: 7792 | From: Potterville, MI | Registered: Dec 2001
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If you can't do what Karyn advises then try to find a local laminator and pay them to do your laminating if its a job that really needs it.
I have a good laminator but use it very little. Most of the sign work I do will hold up the few years I need it to. A good cast vinyl will hold up pretty damn well.
Oh and I dont mess with vehicles anymore so scratch resistance isnt a big necessity.
-------------------- Bob Stephens Skywatch Signs Zephyrhills, FL
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