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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Pounce Patterns

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Author Topic: Pounce Patterns
Dennis Baughman
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Member # 4776

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Howdy,
Being a long time cut vinyl person I am slowly doing more and more painted signs. We just got an Electro-Pounce and we are up and pouncing (after just a couple of shocks).
Now I am wondering how to get the pounce to stick to things like Alum. Omega Board or a rough brick wall? We are using Hansee pounce pads. I have read that a rag will work just as good or better.
Is the pounce just going to be really faint until we draw it back in?
Thanks in advance.
Dennis Baughman
Midtown Signs
Kansas City, Missouri

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Dennis Baughman
Midtown Signs LLC
3840 Warwick Blvd.
Kansas City, MO 64111
dennis@midtownsigns.com

Posts: 14 | From: Kansas City | Registered: Jun 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Jordan
Deceased


Member # 2368

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G'day Dennis,

I suggest you sand the reverse side of the pounce pattern, make up a pounce bag using an open weave cloth and fill with a mixture of whiting and dry colour powder ( in contrast to your background) pat on then a rub to make sure the powder goes through.

On a light background we use either charcoal or ultramarine bluewith whiting and just whiting for a dark ground.

In most cases we hold the pattern in position with Duct tape. After pouncing you should not have to pencil in unless it is an overnight job, If it is pounced correctly, only pencil when the weather is doubtful.

Take care, regards John

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Aussie John
Caringbah, N.S.W. Australia

man makes a thing of beauty of that which he loves

Posts: 148 | From: Caringbah, N.S.W. Australia | Registered: Oct 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
James Donahue
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Member # 3624

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Powdered charcoal is less expensive at the local health food store than at the art supply store. Use an old sock as pounce bag. I have a hansee box thing, but it doesn't always put out the powder like an old sock. Just before using it, s-t-r-e-t-c-h it out, to make the fabric looser.

When you want more powder through the holes, use a method like: tap, tap, rub. The taps being when you hit the sock against the paper to release charcoal, then rub it in.

The electro pounce is really neat. You can fold and store your patterns flat.

On exterior walls, be CAREFUL not to use too much, as you can't always wipe/dust it off, and what a mess.

--------------------
James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Louie Pascuzzi
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Dennis,

If you are using an electric pounce there is no need to sand the back as the holes don't dent the paper. If you are using a pounce wheel then you have to sand the back if you want to open up the holes a bit.

I've always used socks or rags to make pounce bags. And I tap them when I need a big deposit or just rub the pattern when I don't.I use blue line chalk, powdered charcoal or baby powder depending un the color of the substrate.

Be careful how much powder you put down. Too much will make it hard to keep a sharp line, the paint will be drawn to the powder and give you a ragged edge. Too much powder can also flatten the gloss a little. In pouncing "less is better".

--------------------
Lou Pascuzzi
www.economysigns.com
Fine Hand Lettering since 1973
Danbury, Ct
203-748-4580
"IOAFS"

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Bill Cosharek
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Member # 1274

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Some more stuff to know. 1st - Always keep your fingers behind the guard. This will reduce shocks. And don't use a metal ruler. 2nd - Place a sheet of paper over the metal surface first. Then attach the pattern which you'll pounce. This way will yield larger holes. EPs have either 2 settings or a continuously variable dial, as on the sr, for further hole size adjustment. 3rd - Always shut off EP before touching the tip. If using 2, make sure they're both off.

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Bill Cosharek
Bill Cosharek Signs
N.Huntingdon,Pa

bcosharek@juno.com

Posts: 703 | From: N.Huntingdon, Pa, USA | Registered: Dec 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Gonzalo (Peewee)Curiel
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Member # 3837

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I've done a couple Gym floors lately and had to pounce a few patterns. The problem I foresaw was that the powder would get "smeared" if some one walked on it and was told to pencil in the lines to prevent that from happening ( double the labor ) , then I remembered an old trick I learned while lettering airplanes ... I used a flat black (or flat white) aerosol spray can.. The flat colors don't bleed through the paper.. Try it...On the bigger jobs of course....

[ April 26, 2005, 10:59 PM: Message edited by: Gonzalo (Peewee)Curiel ]

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Gonzalo Curiel
Peewee Signs & designs
Oroville Ca 95965

peeweepinstriping@comcast.net www.signspeeweedesigns.com

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Dennis Baughman
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Member # 4776

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Thanks for all the tips. I am going to try the some of the ideas around the walls of the shop. I like the blue chalk idea and I think I will get rid of the Hansee pads.

Thanks again

P.S. I really did get shocked by not having the metal pounce table grounded good enough. Zap. I might zap myself every now and again for my own personal electro-shock therapy. Seems like the afternoon went smoother after the shock. Hehehe

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Dennis Baughman
Midtown Signs LLC
3840 Warwick Blvd.
Kansas City, MO 64111
dennis@midtownsigns.com

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Si Allen
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Member # 420

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BEWARE of the red chalk for pouncing! Or snapping lines. It DOESN'T COME OFF!

[For Your Information]

--------------------
Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA

(714) 521-4810

si.allen on Skype

siallen@dslextreme.com

"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"

Never mess with your profile while in a drunken stupor!!!

Brushasaurus on Chat

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Jillbeans
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Member # 1912

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I like to use old sox for pouncing. I always throw in a few cotton balls along with my graphite, blue, or white chalk. Then I tie em up with a gumband.
Jordo is right, duct tape is the way to go for sticking the pattern.
I have discovered that no plotter-pounced pattern can stand up to a hand-wheeled one, at least in my case, and I yearn for an electro-pounce even tho it may bring on my death.
I also have gotten quite good at projecting things and drawing them in with charcoal stix. You have to watch for distortion with that method tho.
Love....Jill

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Sheila Ferrell
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Member # 3741

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I seldom make patterns anymore...just project the image directly on the panel in-shop...an opaque projector allows for the very least distortion and no need for transparencies.


When I do make patterns, I use an old sock for pouncing too.

~I also use blue chalk..(carpenters line chalk).

~On walls I use red (line chalk). (caution as per Si's tip) Primarily because I have the ability make it rain when I start outdoor jobs . . . .and that chalk won't wash off...
[Razz] [Big Grin]

~Always pounce the most minimal faint lines as possible just barely enough to see.

~Another trick for regular pounce wheels: After pouncing, lightly sand the back of the pattern lines to help 'open up' the holes.

You can also use my jokes for customers who ask how you get all those tiny holes:

*"Man, you would'nt believe how long it takes with that straight pin...wish they made a wheel or somethin' for this. . . . ."

*"I use a pizza cutter."


I reckon you'll have to come up with your own jokes for them burnt holes . . .like,

*"I use the world's smallest ciggarettes..." [Razz] [Big Grin]

--------------------
Signs
Sweet Home Alabama


oneshot on chat


"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog"

Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rich Stebbing
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Member # 368

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A couple of more ideas for you Dennis: When pouncing put another piece of paper(butcher or whatever) beneath the one your pouncing which will allow you to make a cleaner hole and is good for smaller detail work where you may need to slowdown.
The baby socks work great, and when working on walls can even be taped to the end of heavy duty yardstick.
When doing walls or when you desire a heavier deposit you can pounce pattern while on table or floor and then pounce or rub pattern when aligned , thus filling your holes somewhat before pattern is attached. Happy pouncing!

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Rich Stebbing
RichSigns
Rohnert Park CA
707-795-5588

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Frank Magoo
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Make that sock a large over-calf variety and tie it off down low, you can fit hand inside of upper part and have a glove of sorts, makes sock more controlable.

--------------------
Frank Magoo,
Magoo's-Las Vegas; fmagoo@netzero.com
"the only easy day was yesterday"

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John Lennig
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"Makes sock more Controlable...."

Now that's what I've been looking for all my life!!!"
lol Frank, just when I was losing faith...!!

John

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John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts
5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby,
British Columbia, Canada
bigtopya@hotmail.com
604.451.0006

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Alicia B. Jennings
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I'm a Bag lady myself. I buy pounce bags at Mclogan Sign Supply in Los Angeles. I would also reccomend an old sock. A while back I was moving my ladder, the pounce bag was on top of the ladder. You can guess what happened. Black powder all over my face and stuck to my lipstick.

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Signs by Alicia Jennings (Mudflap Girl)
Tacoma, WA
Since 1987
Have Lipstick, will travel.

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