posted
ive done 5-6 of these in the last couple months. 4x8 double faced alumicor signs. i come up with this way of building a frame and it really simple but effective. i got a little drawing and the only thing i dont have on it is fastners. youll need 4- 1/4 x 6" galv.lag bolts, 4" deck screws, 1 1/4" deck screws. you need to drill the 4x4 where the lag bolts will go in to grab the bottom 2x4x8.25. and you will need to drill the 1x2 strips....so the screws dont split the wood. on the 4' side of the strips i use 3-4 screws on the 8' side i use 6-8. you take all this to location, lay out the 4x4x12,put the 2x4x8.25 in the center where the holes are drilled in the 4x4's. you assemble this part, then you slide the 4x8 alumicor into the slot between the 1x2's. now you put the 2x4x10(cut to size)to fit across the top of the 4x4's, screw the 4" deck screws into that and the 4x4 and your done. have holes dug and stand up in holes.
[ April 06, 2005, 02:58 AM: Message edited by: old paint ]
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks Joe. Maybe paint the 1 x 2's a different color of latex to form a border around the sign?
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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posted
i dont paint the frame....most of the time i get the stuff from LOWES/HOME DEPOT its damp...and i tell the client they can paint it themselves for a lot less money then if i paint it.
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
OP, I frame .040 or .063 aluminum double or single-side signs mostly for a coupl'a realty companys.
I have a few as actual finished business signs too...
I've been meaning to make a small sample of this frame to take to meets . . . .
It is an even less involved way, and uses little material. I can cut & frame a 4x8 in less than an hour....I wish I could post a pic...
You need:
~Less than 30- 3" deck screws. ~4- 3/8"x 3&1/2" lag screws w/ washers ~2- 2x4x8's, and 1- 2x4x10 ~-4x4 or 6x6 posts - length needed
I take the treated 2x4's and run them thru my table-saw on the wide-flat side 3/4" deep, right in the middle. (I clamp down a guide)
I make four peices like this that will allow the edge of the aluminum panel to slide in the 3/4" deep blade-wide 'kerf'.
As I go along with each peice on the panel, 3" deck-screws go in the 1&1/2" side of the 2x4 and 'catch' the aluminum preventing the board from bowing 'off' the panel (as they tend to do when drying out) (usually about 5 or 6 across the front top and bottom and 2 or 3 on the sides)
The bottom peice goes on first. It is 94&1/2" long leaving 3/4" of the aluminum sticking out each end.
The ends go on next, flush with the bottom peice leaving 3/4" of the top of the alum. out.
The top (you get from the 10 footer because you need the extra 1&1/2" inch) goes on and covers the end peices flush.
I run 3" deck screws through all outside ends.
The sign will be centered inside this 2x4 frame, so you have just 'a kerf less than' 1&3/4" deep frame. Your actual panel space is 94&1/2" x 46&1/2".
You can fancy it up by setting some mould inside, cutting your own treated on a bevel, and 1x4 even looks good in there too, but reduces your face space another 7" all around. (no biggie)
On nicer signs, I always run a bead of silicone around the inside edge of the frame
I drill 3/8" holes through the inside of the 2x4 sides (usually one near top and one near bottom of each side peice) ( On nicer signs I counter-sink with a butter-fly bit first)
When we get on site, I lay the sign out and tap the lags w/washers through the frame to the post and ratchet them in.
By the time I'm done the PHD is done, and we stand it up drop it in, pour dry concrete ....(I like to rake around the area and make it look nice (lol) collect a check and *poof* were gone.
POSTS: (At shop)I also bevel the tops of the post off (takes 2 minutes with a skil-saw) and sometimes add the ball-finials.
(The posts are either 4x4 or 6x6x10 but sometimes we use 12 footers if the sign is going in a low place)
I have separate prices the customer can choose from for the following options:
Natural-treated frame Staining or wood perservative Prime and paint Post size and finial treatements.
Look around at some of the really nice treated finials, and for 6x6's there are some nice 'hip-roof' caps in copper & white with treated mould that fit over the post ends.
I used to use those beveled flat-caps for posts that go on before the ball...but they are a waste of time and future trouble ...just bevel the post off.
I tried this at first...but, I could save that 22 inch scrap off the 2x4x10 by 45ing the frame....but that takes more time cutting & thinking than a 2x4 scrap costs...lol....'sides, I wind up using the scraps for all kinds of things anyway . . .
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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it took you an HOUR TO TYPE THAT!!! another added feature to doing the frame as in my example....the owner can go out to the sign, removed less the a dozen short screws, remove the 1x2, and take the sign panel out of the frame and take it inside if there is high winds...hummmmmm
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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I knew you'd shoot me down, you ol' fart . . .
Now tell me again, WHY would a sign need to be taken in due to high winds?? Oh yeh, cause your in hurricaine alley... Gee OP, I figured you for the type to let them get destroyed for more business . . .
We just install signs permanently here . . . .'cept for the realty stuff...unscrew the four lag bolts and pull up the posts to move to new available property. (we never pour concrete around realty 4x4s... just pack the dirt real good...no worries...)
BTW...it did NOT take me an hour to type that...but I was'nt watchin' the clock either...
Why do you give me such a hard time Opie.....
(lol... )
-------------------- Signs Sweet Home Alabama
oneshot on chat
"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog" Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003
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-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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I like both methods. That kerf as a holder idea is pretty cool. That was well written Sheila, with the sample idea mentioned again as a closing.
It's not as common now, but a few years back a lot of people around here would build a mini roof over the lenght of the sign. We get lots of rain.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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