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This is something that has been helpful to me when I have to paint complex pictures. Some may be laughing at me for this, but that's ok
I really don't consider myself an artist but people bring me the weirdest things to paint, so I need all the help I can get.
I usually work from a digital picture or find one as a reference. So when there is something like a face for example, I choose a light, dark and medium coloured area of the picture then I zoom in until the pixels are about 1/4 inch on my screen. I choose one pixel, zoom in some more, and mix that colour, which is now much easier to identify. I do the same with the other areas until I have three different colours to start the painting with: main colour, shades and highlights.
You can't really get an exact match to a colour on the screen but it still speeds things up for me as it increases my chances of getting the painting "right" the first time. Anybody else ever done that?
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I've never done it, but in this trade, the more tricks you have up your sleeve, the better. This is another one.
At one point, years ago, I wanted to get a precision digital scale, something that could weigh down to one drop of paint. Then, record the amounts of paint used for certain colors, and write the formulas down, along with a smear of the paint. Probably more time consuming than it's worth.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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posted
Wow Lotti...what a great tip. It's so obvious now that you are mentioning it, but I've never thought about doing that.
I've been matching letter colors with a close-up of the fill flyout in Corel...That works pretty good...even tho the colors on the screen are so much more vibrant. Zooming in on colors in a picture sure makes sense. I'm going to try that.
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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It's not all that time consuming. It just depends on how exacting you want to be. I used to work in a shop that had a scale down to .001 for ink mixing. Using that system, once a color was found it would ALWAYS look the same, every run, every time. Worth it if you have the client base for it.
Mark
-------------------- Mark Sheflo Renton, Washington A-Squared Signs, LLC Posts: 145 | From: Renton, Washington | Registered: Feb 2003
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Don't forget that most of the high end sign programs and Illustrator can "search" and return the closest match to a color library for you. Plug in how close you want it and in our case with pantone solid library, it's an easy mix from there. (with a scale) We use if for the same method, to get the primary mixing colors when doing a specialty color.
-------------------- Ron Helliar Marysville Sign 11807 51st Ave. NE Marysville, WA 98271 (360) 659-4856 Posts: 263 | From: Marysville, WA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6724 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Lol, Rick, I actually have been scraping paint off the screen because the static will suck it right off a mixing stick if you try to hold that anywhere near the screen
Of course this isn't a scientific method to arrive at a certain Pantone colour, but try zooming in on a face and you'll know what I mean: There you will find surprisingly dark orange tones, pinkish white and (gasp) dark, dark rust tones. Not at how I think it should look like.
Here's the point: I have a preconceived idea of what skin colour (as an example) looks like, but the bigger my painting (think murals) the less I can rely on on those ideas.
If I start out with the colours I have isolated in the image I have a better chance that it will look right from a distance. As a sign painter we can not paint the way a fine artist would, we have to think distance and that means you have to use contrasts that may look unatural from close up. I always have to bend my mind around that.
But the main reason is that by looking at one colour at a time, I can much easier figure out how to match it. I used this method first when I had to paint from a black and white picture and decided to use sepia colours instead. I wasn't at all sure how to mix them, so I found myself a nice sepia photo on Google, isolated and mixed several different tones which I used accordingly for the gray tones of the photograph.
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COLORTONES color selector and formula guide (from 1991) Works for bulletin and lettering enamels. We bought it from someone on the bullboard. You will have to find a used copy.