posted
Im encouraged! Styro Spray 715 brushed over HDU as the first coat of filler just may be the answer.
Styro Spray (SS) is a two part mixture on a 1 to 1 ratio that cures without air drying. Thus no worries of traped moisture using a latex primer or filler.
I didn't have any replies to my first post so I had a chance today to test SS 715 over 10lb HDU (Precision Board)
I took some pictures.
I poured on the mix, then brushed it out. It seeks it own level and leaves no brush strokes until it starts to harden. It goes on very creamy then slowly turns honey like then gets real sticky. Takes about 30 minutes so you can lightly touch the surface. After an hour, its more like soft plastic.
Im impressed. SS 715 is user friendly, no toxic fumes, don't have to don a space suit, and cleans up with ordinary lacquer thinner.
Just thought I'd share some out of the box techniques.
[ January 12, 2005, 10:08 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
posted
Karyn, Used 1 coat, so far. When its dry, it still looks wet.
On another project, we used Styro Spray 715, hand painted it on pink construction foam where the raised letters were, then applied vinyl over some of those letters and 1 Shot over some others. Vinyl won't stick to pink foam very well, if at all, but the SS715 sticks great, hardens quick and then you are good to go with paint or vinyl.
You can brush styro spray 715 on with a quill as it acts like sign paint for about 10 minutes, then it gets too sticky to work with. Then we found we had to hurry and clean out the brush in lacquer thinner. So mix a little at a time, like 1/8 of of a dixie cup for each part, then mix together in a third dixie cup, and start brushing like there is no tomorrow!
edit: I'm wonering if you brused this over areas where relief lettering would appear, put i in the CNC router and hogged out the background around letters and clipart, (thus cutting right through the styro spray) then it would be easy to hand letter the raised letters....hmmmmmmmmm light bulb going off!
Then again, why not put the styro spray on over the entire sign, then paint it the finished color, then mask the entire sign, then route it, then spray the background, then remove the paint mask, and the sign is finished likity split!
[ January 12, 2005, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
posted
Karyn, I don't see why not. (use a roller) as it keeps leveling over a period of 10 to 15 minutes so that air bubbles would escape. Even so (because I haven't tried it) you could always drag a brush through it and knock out any air bubbles. (sounds good in theory, right?)
[ January 12, 2005, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
You've done a good job showing how this product works and I am encouraged by the results.
We use 15lb and 18lb HDU for the most part.I dread the priming process. We've used the manufacturers recommended primers but they all take several coats, sanding and when all that is finished, one has to be careful not to accidentally damage the panel. So I am encouraged.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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posted
Interesting test you got there Dave. Thanks for sharing. I never heard of that stuff - where does it come from and is it supposed to be safe to use outdoors? (painted naturally).
Also, do you think it could be chiseled through by hand? Ie, how brittle is it? We usually pre-finish all out HDU then carve through a mask, any opinions on whether it would work for that?
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Joe, When this stuff cures, its like plastic, not real hard but not soft either.
You could definitey router it by hand or CNC, but I don't think you can carve it.
We first learned about it because it is used on museum projects to replace fiberglass top coatings on displays. Many museum displays are made with white foam cut on hot wire cutters then sprayed with Styro-Spray then painted. It speeds up production time by light years.
Other styro spray formuls have to be sprayed on with plurel sprayers which cost something like $10,000 dollars (an ungodly amount) as it heats the styro spray at the tip as it is applied. You have to wear a protective suit to work with that crap.
715 is the new formula that is easy for ANYBODY to work with with no expensive sprayers (as you can brush it on)
Oh, by the way, you can pour this stuff in a mold and make 3D objects. It may be that it was invented for this purpose.
[ January 12, 2005, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
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I tried the stuff on a routed insulation foam sign (as a test). The design was fairly intricate. The stuff started to cure before I had a chance to finish (cure begins in about 15 minutes). I might try spraying it, but the consistancy is so thick, I don't know what type of gun you would use.
-------------------- Tim Whitcher Adrian, MI Posts: 1546 | From: Adrian, MI | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
The web site says to use a gravity feed hopper gun, but you will need to don proper protective clothing.
Styrospray is very tempermental in that it needs to stay at 72 degrees at all times for best results.
Also it only acts as a primer while it is slightly tacky. After it cures they recomend running another very light coat of styrospray 715 over the project and after the second coat tacks up, then paint it with enamel or latex.
In other words, paint it before it completely cures.
I think they have spray guns for sale or they will recommend something.
styrospray is one word so when doing a search it comes up quicker if it is not typed in as two words. just fyi
posted
Did't Catch your last post. Been using this for years. Its great stuff. heres the link to their site. http://www.industrialpolymers.com/styrospray.html Tim for spraying use a Drywall Hopper gun with a #4 or #5 tip. About 2mm. We use it coat signs and for large mold shells on Pointups. If you roller it on Use a Propane torch to remove any bubbles but go VERY VERY Fast as not to melt the Pink foam under it.
[ January 13, 2005, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
I contacted a Rosco dealer who turned out to be a wealth of information.
Yes, their products are generally for Theatre Set Designs. They described their Hard Topcoat as exterior and interior and have sign shop references, which I didn't take take down.
The Foam Coat is water based. It is advertised as easy to spray, roll or brush. When dry it's supposedly rock hard as they use on stage floors 1/8" thick for glassey look. Light sanding is recommended before second coat or painted top coat.
Can't wait to get the samples.
Thanks again Joe
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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posted
I like water based stuff. Easy on the sink.
This stuff sounds great. A no-brainer.
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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I didn't find Styrospray, but Paint Direct here in Calgary has FoamCoat in 1 gallon containers. I'll be picking some up this weekend, can't wait to try it.
posted
I posted last summer about Styrospray, its a very good finish, quite expensive. I think its just under $100 for a 2gallon kit, if memory serves well. Don't use it without a full face mask, it stinks and makes your eyes water so god knows what it does to your insides unprotected!
We have the hopper gun, but I roll it on.
Seems an expensive option to cover expensive hdu in Styrospray, it leaves a hard plastic finish. We use it on cheap styrofoam as an alternative to HDU.
I have Rosco foamcoat here too
This is Styrospray on styrofoam
and here again after painting, you have to key styrospray well for paint to stick.
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