posted
I was wondering if there was some sort of compatibility issue with Frisket films and Urethane paints. I thought I had read somewhere that Urethane paints will dissolve Frisket films.
Does anyone know anything about this or have any experinces good or bad with Frisket films and Urethane paints?
-------------------- Harris Kohen K-Man Pinstriping and Graphix Trenton, NJ "Showing the world that even I can strategically place the pigment where its got to go." Posts: 1739 | From: Trenton, NJ, USA | Registered: Jun 2001
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posted
Depends on what you are calling "frisket" If in fact you are speaking of "paper mask" (same as transfer tape) you can use it with Urethane (I assume you are talking about 2 part paints)regardless it works extremely well...you will likely need to "hand cut" your mask.
The real trick with "2 part" is you need to identify the time to remove the mask after the paint is put down.
If you remove the mask when it's to fresh it will "string" and you'll fight the little "hair like" strands ...wait too long and you'll likely pull the paint from the surface around the mask.
Only way you can do it is stand by as it sets ...make a test panel to check the timing then jump on that window of opportunity and remove the mask. It can be a little messy and risky (if you drop the mask back into the work) but if you're careful you'll get a clean removal with crisp lines.
I wouldn't recommend you leave the mask on over nite with a two part paint ...you'll fight it all the way and disaster lurks in every corner.
If you are talking vinyl mask? ...your right somewhat right...it will soften (not really disolve) and removal it is like nit picking as it comes off in small pieces (not fun)
Good luck...I do a lot of this so if you need to, e-mail me and I'll answer any questions you might have (or post it here).
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
I had problems with the clear frisk mask (like you would use on illustration board) and urethanes. It left a ghosted marble pattern on the uro base, I assume from the glue.
-------------------- Kevin McEvoy Columbia, SC Posts: 21 | From: Columbia, SC | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
I was meaning the clear Frisket Brand type of material, I know that I can use and have used transfer tape. I was just curious as to whetther or not there was a problem using the clear or matte FRISKET mask material
-------------------- Harris Kohen K-Man Pinstriping and Graphix Trenton, NJ "Showing the world that even I can strategically place the pigment where its got to go." Posts: 1739 | From: Trenton, NJ, USA | Registered: Jun 2001
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posted
OK Ill take that advice and put the frisket material back in the box I found it in, unless of course someone has a different answer for me before I try this.
Thank you for your help
-------------------- Harris Kohen K-Man Pinstriping and Graphix Trenton, NJ "Showing the world that even I can strategically place the pigment where its got to go." Posts: 1739 | From: Trenton, NJ, USA | Registered: Jun 2001
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posted
Harris, Harris, Harris....what we going to do with you boy? Playing in uncharted waters again are ya? heheheh...
OK, here's the scoop...Frisket brand frisket have properties to resist, but not completely, most types of urethanes. But!!! that shouldn't concern you anyway, unless you are piling on a ton of color. Think about it for a minute, you're shooting base-coat....most applications are light in nature and only creates problems if you build coats, which is unusal, usually. I've done tons of airbrush and everytime, I remove masks and stencils before clearing and clearing is the only time urethane has a chance to sit long enough to premeate your mask. So, your fears are unfounded, if, you don't build up your color coats and unmask after applying them. There is of course a simplier method...."what's in your wallet, pilgrim?" J/Kn' Your vinyl supply ppl. should have clear application tape, not the paper that strings glue when cut or pulled, but a clear version, that's the one to get for doing cut-out artwork. Then you don't have to worry about any seapage, even those candy base-coats won't soak thru it. It won't conform to severely rounded surfaces as well as it's thinner counter-part, but, I feel overall, it's the best product to use, hence, that's all I've used for over four years now, and if you'd said something when here, I'd have given you some and their address. But....
-------------------- Frank Magoo, Magoo's-Las Vegas; fmagoo@netzero.com "the only easy day was yesterday" Posts: 2365 | From: Las Vegas, Nv. | Registered: Jun 2003
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