posted
Several people e-mailed me about this product when I mentioned it in a recent post about substituting other materials for foam letters.
Here's the full discription and parts number for that product.
VERSADUR 150 SERIES TYPE 1 GRADE 1 EXTRUDED PVC part number 970615
It is a product of HPG International Made in the U.S.A.
It cuts like butter on a band saw as well as jig saw...I have trimmed it with a router and it routes well.It can be fused together with standard Plumbers PVC cement.It also drills and taps extremely well and takes automotive finishes and vinyl exceptionally well.
Oh and before someone asks (and someone will) I have never tried One Shot on it.
I discovered it one day while looking for a product that was both inexpensive and more long lasting than foam. It works so well I have never done another foam letter job.
Hope you find it as useful as I have. Contact me here if you have any other questions.
[ October 11, 2004, 09:06 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
Never mind Monte. I Googled it, and found out from a local sign supplier that carries it. It is very similar to Sintra or Komacel/Komatex PVC materials. Thanks.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
I'm interested in the painting techniques...I've never used automotive paint.
Can you get the paint in spray cans or do you have to have a sprayer?
How many coats?
Do you paint the backs?
I assume you apply the mounting pads before you paint. Is that right?
What's your technique for making sure that the studs and the holes in the brick line up?
Where do you get aluminum mounting studs, and how exactly do you put them in the pads that you weld to the backs of the letters?
Edited to say: well, don't feel like you gotta answer ALL those questions...but the paint question is the most important one...probably a little research and trial and error and I kin figger out that other stuff.
[ October 13, 2004, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: William Bass ]
-------------------- William Bass wjb71@bellsouth.net Northwest Florida Posts: 636 | From: Pensacola, FL | Registered: Aug 2004
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posted
Monte, We use a lot of pvc material like Sintra and the thing I do not like about it is the edges on the cut ends. They are rough and more difficult to cover with paint. If left unpainted they get dirty and are hard to clean. Is this material you use different on the cut edges - like more smooth?
-------------------- Jean Shimp Shimp Sign & Design Co. Jacksonville Beach, Fl Posts: 1266 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I've used PVC for a couple of jobs, just the thin stuff, and hated it. Let me reiterate - HATED IT. Curls up like bacon, fades only slightly slower than flourescent vinyl, and if cut too fast, melts.
The good? cuts like butter, lightweight, and a waterproof alternative to foamboard.
Maybe some of you folks who've used the 1/2" or thicker stuff can tell me different, but I'd never use it again for anything outdoors.
What have you done to get it to live outdoors and not curl or distort? What about PVC's inherent lack of UV protection? Granted, this doesnt count if you paint it, but then why buy a colored product in the first place?
Posts: 370 | Registered: May 2001
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Jean yes it is very much different...I use a die grinder with a fine fluted straight die cutting tool to smooth the edges...keep in mind for most applications the edges are far out of site.
Rob... you need not do anything to make this material work outside...I have it in its raw state on more than one job and some have been out there 5 and 6 years and look as good today as it did when I did the job.
Willian ...while I appreciate your exuberance you really must do some of your own homework.
For example: You can get all the information on automotive paint and the process from your local Automotive paint distributor.
They will tell you how many coats of what type of paint to use.
Sure you can paint the backs if you want to but ...who's going to see it?
you can mount the pads whenever you want but yes I would recommend you do it before they are painted.
I have never worried about hitting the "course lines" on the brick...but if you want to just put all the pads on in a line across the back(more trouble than it's worth).
I don't know your town so I don't know where you can get your aluminum studs...but I suggest you look in the yellow pages for a good bolt supplier or call your sign supply and ask them.
Ok did I cover everyone? Hope so!
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
OOps Gene...sorry ...I buy mine from Cope Plastics and Regal Plastics. Do you have them where you are? If not check your yellow pages for a plastics house they will locate it for you.
You could also contact HPG and ask them for a distributor near you.
Hope this helps!
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
Sounds like a pretty neat product, Monte. Might have to look it up. It's getting harder all the time to find a good supplier for duraply in the area.
One concern I've always had about white PVC is that it usually yellows with age, particularly here in the south. I don't mind painting it, but would be extra nice if I didn't have to.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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Is this material a medium gray in color and has a very high density compared to the other PVC products? I really like, if we are talkin about the same thing. It's tough and easy to use, as you said; although, it's a bit heavier.
-------------------- Dave Parr Sign Painter USA Posts: 709 | From: USA | Registered: May 2003
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