posted
Hello, I have the opportunity to get a great deal on a table saw with a 44 inch fence. My concern is with being able to cut a 4x8 sheet in half (into two 4x4 pieces). Is there a way to do this? Modify the 44 inch fence somehow?
[ October 07, 2004, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: Tim Whitcher ]
-------------------- Tim Whitcher Adrian, MI Posts: 1546 | From: Adrian, MI | Registered: Mar 1999
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You don't want to do this cut with a table saw...a panel saw is the correct tool. Even a skill saw with a guide would be better than trying to slide a 4x8 no matter how wide the fence is. It is a set up for binding. Get the saw, but find a safe way to work within the limitations. I've done what you're wanting to do, and it is possible, but far from safe and ideal.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6714 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks for the advice. I think I will buy the saw. I currently use the woodworker next door to cut my material, but he's in the shop less and less, or is too busy with his own projects, so I guess it's time to buy my own.
-------------------- Tim Whitcher Adrian, MI Posts: 1546 | From: Adrian, MI | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
I would strongly agree with Rick...this is not a safe operation on a table saw. I have developed a complete safety training program at our local University and have done a fair amount of research in this area. When material binds between the rip fence and the blade, both the sheet of material and the operator are likely to go for a ride. A panel saw would be the best tool for larger sheets of material. Or the straight edge and Skill Saw is a safer choice. The table saw is however a very valuble tool to have for cutting smaller pieces....happy cutting...
-------------------- Catharine C. Kennedy CCK Graphics 1511 Route 28 Chatham Center, NY 12184 cck1620@taconic.net "Look at me, Look at me, Look at me now! I't's fun to have fun, But you have to know how!" Posts: 2173 | From: downtown Chatham Center, NY | Registered: Feb 2004
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Hiya Tim, I can vouch for the safety concerns about trying to cut a 4'x8' on a table saw. My experience was with acrylic. Fortunately, I was lucky enough to keep all my digits. This was my one and only work related accident that required a trip to the hospital. A few things I learned were: No matter what the boss says, use the right tool for the job. If you don't have the right tools for the job, let the boss do the work. Rushing to meet a deadline normally causes more headaches and stress - Just ask Bill Diaz
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Every shop should have a table saw, band saw, drill press & radial arm saw. But Rick is right, the table saw is not the right tool for cutting a 4x8 into 4x4s.
posted
Safest and cleanest way to cut 4' x8' panels if you don't have a panel saw?
Here's how I've been doing it for over 35 years...place two 1" x 1" x 48" pieces of wood (plywood ,pine doesn't matter) on a 4x8 table about 6" from either side of the cut...set the blade on your Skill saw just below the depth of the board...clamp a straight edge to the board to be cut (alowing for the inset to the blade from the foot of the saw) and simply run the saw across... as you reach the end the two halves will part and rest on the table...You'll probably ned a milk basket or something that height to stand on to make the cut comfortably all the way across.
It is the quickest easiest and cleanest method I've ever found.
What ever you do DON'T TRY TO MAKE THIS CUT ON A TABLE SAW...if you have never experienced a kick-back from a table saw now is the time to keep from it.
A few years back I suffered a kick back while cutting some oak ...the saw drove the piece half way thru my right hand and carved out a hole an 1 1/2" long and a hlf inch wide. for a while I thought my hand lettering days were over ...but alls well that heals well.
Don't let this be you! Oh did I mention I still have all ten digits?
One more thing ..."never be afraid of a piece of power equipment you are using ...BUT... respect the hell out of it". If you find you're afraid of a power tool find someone else that isn't, for you're sure to end up injured.
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
Tim, I bought a panel saw a while back and I believe it to be the best investment I've made in a long time, since I bought the Edge. My table saw collects dust now. I would very strongly suggest saving the money, invest it into a panel saw instead when you collect enough. Monte's suggestion is right on. There are other jigs that you can make. One of the best sources for jigs is by Fine Woodworking Magazine publisher Taunton Press, it is called "Fine Woodworking on Proven Shop Tips". Paperback $7.95 when I bought it. Shop Tips
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
I've worked with a table saw with tables built around them total table size about 10' x 10', and cut 4x8's on it, but I don't recommend it. That setup was always problematic. Such a big piece is asking to bind.
Get a book on using a table saw if you're not already familiar. It'll save you from alot of grief.
posted
Tim, Another thing to consider is that many suppliers will cut a board to size for you. If you know ahead of time that is. Then, on the ocassion that you need a smaller board, you could use the table saw to cut from a scrap.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
I used to cut 4x8's the long way on a table saw (still scary) but never to make 2 4x4's. Before I bought my panel saw I took a scrap piece of MDO 10' by 14 inches wide. I bought 2 5' aluminum flats. A straight 10' single piece would be better if you can find it. Screw it down the length of the MDO making sure that the distance between the edge of the MDO and the aluminum guide was an inch more than the distance from the saw blade to the edge of the saw base. After the aluminum is secured, run the saw along the aluminum fence, cutting off the extra MDO. The edge of MDO left there can be lined up to your cut line and clamped to the sheet you want to cut. The saw rides on the MDO plate and against the aluminum fence. I made mine 10 feet first to be able to cut 10' MDO, but more importantly, to be able to have the whole saw base on the plate and against the fence before you come in contact with the sheet you want to cut. I use spring clamps which had plenty of pressure to hold the guide in place. You can also use Jorgenson clamps or short bar clamps if you make your MDO plate a little wider so the saw motor will clear the clamps.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Hi Tim - I'm under the impression that cabinet shops have specialized table saws with huge infeed and outfeed surfaces and sliding cradles to handle cuts like that.
But a google search didn't really turn up anything to support that belief.
What it DID turn up was a link to the New Yankee Workshop where Norm tells a reader to cut large panels with a circular saw instead of wrestling with it on a circular saw.
Clearly Norm was covering his butt there cuz he was dealing with a hobbyist/homeowner of unknown skills - when we all know the coolguy/signmaker way would be to slap that puppy up on the sawtop, click the switch on with our toe and wobble it through freehand, letting the burnt splintered halves crash to the floor on the far side just as our teeshirt gets snagged in the still-spinning blade.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Joe, you are right but it's pretty specialized and expensive equipment.
The sliding table, which is connected to the saw with a huge swinging arm will handle a 4x8 in any direction. They usually have a 12" blade with a small scoring blade just ahead of it. The scoring blade cuts a small shallow kerf ahead of the large blade which eliminates any splintering as the large blade exits the cut.
Got a few hundred G's laying around? If so you can get a computerized saw. Program in the cuts you need. The panels slide over an air cushion into position. The saw clamps down a whole stack of panels, automaticaly clamps it down and makes the cut. You never even see the blade. Watching one of these babies cut up a whole pallet of panels in no time at all is very cool.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Everyone is on the same page with this topic and I agree.
The panel saw as G. Golden suggests is one of the best pieces of equipment a sign shop can buy. Hand Down.
I strongly recommend you make a sliding bed for you table saw. This device will allow you to use your saw for very accurate and safe work. I think a table saw without this device, is only half a saw.
It will take only about thirty minutes to make from MDO and a couple of small strips of Oak.
Good luck with you new saw. Be very careful. Tod, one of my employees lost four fingers about three years ago.
J.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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Tim, Heres what you get. Go to the lumber store and ask the for a 4' fence guide with clamps. They're made by Macklanburg-Duncan Co. Okla. City, Okla.
The guide is a special piece of allumanium thats sort of like a "U" channel. Theres a groove on the bottom side that holds two clamps that pinch the meterial to the portable fence.
It can cut any size up to about 50" in length. Light weight, and makes for a great straight edge.
Almost everyone here knows how to use a skill saw, and thats what the darn things made for. They make an eight foot one, but ripping a 4X8 lenght wise, I'm better off using a table saw or panel saw.
OK, nows heres the best part, its only $39.00US.
The best way to cut is to set the depth of the skill saw blade to about 5/8" or 9/16", so that the blade goes slightly beyond the material. If you put a piece of cardboard down before you cut the material, you'll be able to cut that material without damaging the surface your cutting on.
I've taken a couple of pics so you'll know what to look for.
"Very portable, very fast."
-Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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That is a nice rig...BUT, with that set up you are running the saw across the panel. Mine cost about $12 and the saw runs on the 1/2 inch MDO therefore no scratching the panel. Plus I've never had a saw where the base plate is some nice even number of inches from the saw blade. As I described, after cutting the excess MDO, that IS your saw blade edge. Takes seconds to line up the edge of the MDO plate to your cut line.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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