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I had a local sign shop cut some vinyl for me to use as masks on a motorcycle tank I'm planning on painting. Has anyone used vinyl along with airbrushing automotive urethanes, HOK specifically. I'm a little worried the vinyl may be too sticky and might pull up the paint. Anyone have any experience?
Thanks-Stretch
-------------------- Scott/Stretch PaintAnything.com Westminster, CO info@paintanything.com Posts: 31 | From: Westminster, CO | Registered: Jan 2004
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I cut alot of it for paint customers out of both intermediate vinyl and mask material,bottom line is that if the base was put on right and had enuff flash time/dry time you should be fine...if its wet somewhere underneath or you trapped solvent or whatever its probably gonna lift chunks out,or if your clear hasnt cured right etc you'll leave an imprint....remember almost all basecoats nowdays are designed to be taped on...,if you really think its gonna be an issue shoot a real thin coat of catalyzed clear over it,let it dry and you can scuff it and do whatever you want over it......as soon as you finish spraying your design let it tack up slightly and pull it off right away so you dont get ragged edges or real high lip edges,and dont be tempted to pile it on fastso you dont build up too many mils to fast in that small a space.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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As with any custom paint work it all depends on how you use it Scott,...most base coats don't lift if you have a good sanded base and they have a chance to cure,...as for vinyl ,...I hope you are talking about paint mask as normal vinyl may have too agressive an adhesive. if the artwork is fine misted airbrush fades etc you might want to consider an intercoat clear between masks.
-------------------- fly low...timi/NC is, Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs Winston-Salem,NC Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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well i said the same thing timi did when i was editing some pribish
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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Hi Scott, You may want to try our StencilRite product. It's a heavy paper, like application tape, on a liner so that it can run through a plotter. It has great paint hold-out but most importantly, releases easily and cleanly from your target surface.
You can test out a sample by ordering product # 693F from our website - www.abitape.com.
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Here look at this and pray that it's not Mac Mask! masking problem Good luck....it was just easier for me to post a link to this topic! Love.....Jill PS HAppy Birthday Sarah!
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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I airbrush with HOK Lettering and Striping Urethane Enamel using a mask. Now this may be different from the other lines of HOK automotive paints as far as how hot the solvents are and how they attack a mask.
You can experience problems removing the mask if you are not quick enough. It will give you a torn edge. So you might want to wait a few hours to remove the mask or peel the mask within a 5 minute span. You either remove it immediately in stages or let it dry. Experimentation would be wise!!!!!!!!!!
I have also had body shops spray paint flames and graphics using computer cut masks and base coat/clear coat automotive paints. They have not experienced any problems. We always waited a few hours to remove the mask, though, and I think that is key. As to what type of mask, I don't think it matters, but it may, it's just I haven't experienced a problem yet. Currently I am using a mask made by MacTac, which is a gray/brown and is somewhat transparent. I like the fact that it is easy to remove.
-------------------- Bill Diaz Diaz Sign Art Pontiac IL www.diazsignart.com Posts: 2107 | From: Pontiac, IL | Registered: Dec 2001
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Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I'll be sure to do a few tests. I'll also check out the various mask materials that have been recommended.
-Stretch
-------------------- Scott/Stretch PaintAnything.com Westminster, CO info@paintanything.com Posts: 31 | From: Westminster, CO | Registered: Jan 2004
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Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. Here's the finished product, I'm pretty happy with the results:
I've used Gerber Mask and that seems to not have enough tact. On this project I used a vinyl called CalonII by Arlon. It's what the sign shop had extra of. It was a bit too sticky and pulled up the paint in two spots. It fixed it but was hoping to avoid that.
I've ordered the sample from ABITape.com to see how it works. I'd like to find something in between the vinyl and the Gerber Mask.
Thanks-Stretch
-------------------- Scott/Stretch PaintAnything.com Westminster, CO info@paintanything.com Posts: 31 | From: Westminster, CO | Registered: Jan 2004
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Mac tac doesn't hold to curves very well because it is very low tack. I like it when masking large flat areas because you don't get a hernia removing it.
You can also try avery paint mask.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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What we really need is a "rubbery" mask. Something with a "gel" kinda feel that can be cut and stuck. GripFlex makes a liquid rubber maskant that can be sprayed or painted onto a surface, but then it has to be hand cut. There must be a way...
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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