posted
I will have my first motorcycle gas tank job to do soon...we haven't made a decision on exactly what we will do yet, but the client wants dragons....
The bike is black, so this could be really cool!
Now.....is this possible to do with an acrylic paint (airbrushed and paint brushed)
Or, is the only way to go with One Shot?
I plan on having it clearcoated by a reputable shop here in town.
I'm willing do work with either paint. Just more freedom for me with acrylics.
What about surface prep? He will bring me the tank, emptied of course. How about the positioning of the tank to most efficiently work on it?
BTW he really likes Mike Lavalle's work...so there is no pressure there!
posted
Adrienne....If I were doing a job like that, and with your abilities, I would definitely use basecoat for doing the painting. It is laquer based, no catalysts involved, and it dries quickly. It can be brushed or sprayed. The film build is also not as thick as other paints so that it takes fewer coats of clearcoat, with block sanding between coats, to obtain a perfectly smooth/fair finish.
It's best property, however, is that it is formulated to accept clearcoat with absolutely no chance of adverse reactions.
It would be a real shame to spend all the time you would put into doing a beautiful job, only to have the clearcoat wrinkle or lift it.
As far as positioning it, I'd buy some cheap foam insulation and carve/build a "cradle" to hold it. Put some poly over the cradle to protect the foam from paint overspray that might eat at it.
Just my dos centavos.
If the customer is impressed with Mike's work, maybe you could call Mike and find out what paint combos he uses.
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
You can use acrylic paints, however, stick to the Createx Auto Air brand. They're made for automotive applications and will take to any automotive 2 part clear. I myself use HOK urethanes for airbrushing and clearing, but I have played with the Createx stuff and it works fine.
Remember though, because the paints are waterbased, the colorfastness is not as good as the urethanes. It could fade over time. Even though clears have UV protectants, water base can still fade.
posted
Adrienne ... I did this dragon in 1-shot and had it clear-coated without any problems.
If you don't have base coat and don't want to invest in a selecction of colors ... take a sample of 1-shot and have it clear-coated to make sure there is no reactions.
PS: The dragon came from an excellent book I found in the local library with the complete history of traditional chinese dragons. The plane is a "Nanchang" ... copy of a russian Yak fighter trainer.
posted
Y'know, usually I cheer anybody on that wants to learn . . . But, we're starting to reach the saturation point with Bike Painters. Yes, really. There's a site up here that advertises Scooter Tin Paint Jobs starting at $275!
If you have an established sign shop, relatively successful, then you don't need the problems learning to use Automotive Coatings as an entirely new Medium.
Mr. Grundy is totally wrong in his assesment of the Automotive Basecoat/Clearcoat Systems. They are far from foolproof, very expensive, and require both expensive and specialized equipment and physical plant for use.
They are also very toxic if not used with care and the proper PPE.
I recommend you refer the job to an experienced Automotive Artist. Allow them to make a living doing what they do, so you won't have to worry about them taking up sign painting!
I am one of the custom painters that took up sign making. All the older sign makers in the area hate me.
-------------------- Jerry VanHorn, Pres. Pure Sports Designs, LLC Pro Sign Design / United Wholesale Signs www.prosigndesign.comwww.unitedwholesalesigns.com West Liberty, OH 937-465-0595 866-942-3990 Since 1990 Posts: 925 | From: West :Liberty, OH | Registered: May 2004
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posted
John...Sorry that you feel I am TOTALLY wrong.
My suggestion was based on the fact that Adrienne was going to have someone else shoot the clearcoat. Using basecoat would be the most logical way to avoid possible problems with an outside source doing the final clearing.
I know Adrienne, and I sincerely believed that advising her to use catylized urethanes for her part of the job was something she would not be willing to do considering her aversion to even something like cigarette smoke.
Basecoat is laquer based and is probably the least noxious of the various paints that can be used in this situation IMHO.
I made no mention of the costs of basecoat paints and they (basecoats only) require no highly specialized equipment and can be applied by brush or airbrush with minimal respiritory protection. Certainly no more sophisticated protection than the paints she is already familiar with using. I know I would rather airbrush basecoat than many other types of paint from a health safety point of view.
My suggestions were not made from the point of view of a wannabe painter. I have been a licenced autobody mechanic and painter since 1969. Several years before base/clear even came into popular use. In my opinion base/clear is the most foolproof paint system to come along.
BUT, as I said that is only my two cents worth. Canadian cents at that!
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
A dragon bounding over a field of lavender might be nice, eh A?
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
I do not post a reply very often, but after reading your post, I had to.I say go for it, Addrienne! I airbrushed before I ever got into signage, & I do all kinds of things. I do have to admit that I have a lack of confidence sometimes when I am asked to do some things, but I do it anyway, & I have done several bike tanks. I usually use One Shot, & I add hardner to it, & take it to someone else to get it clear coated. From the looks of your work, I know it will come out beautiful. Post a picture for us to see when you get it done! Bobbie
-------------------- The Word in Signs Bobbie Rochow Jamestown, PA 16134
724-927-6471
thewordinsigns@alltel.net Posts: 3485 | From: Jamestown, PA 16134 | Registered: Oct 2002
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Some advice I got today was to scuff the surface with the kind if scuff pad they use in body shops.....paint in acrylics, then have it clear coated by the same shop that did the bus....
This is the way I wish to go.... The guy is very cool and wants me to experiment on his vehicles, so I look at this as an oportunity to learn something new,
posted
Wow, Addrienne, what a blessing! Yes, I would do it like you have done before. You have the freedome to experiment, & that is great. The 2 body shops in my area work well with me, & we actually teach each OTHER things! Please post a picture that we can see when you are finished.
-------------------- The Word in Signs Bobbie Rochow Jamestown, PA 16134
724-927-6471
thewordinsigns@alltel.net Posts: 3485 | From: Jamestown, PA 16134 | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
Just wondering Adrienne, what type of acrylics will you use?
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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