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I wonder if anyone who has used the Grainfraim to blast Signfoam could fill me in on some questions I have. I tried laying some gas welding rods across a sample of Signfoam and blasted away. It left a really good look so I’m convinced the concept is sound. The 2’x4’ size of the tool makes me wonder though. Is it easy to align when blasting more than 4’ in length? And what about blast over-lap when you do move the tool? Is that an issue? I’d like to get some user impressions before I plunk down $500 for something that may not do what I want it to do. Thanx in advance to anyone who can help!
Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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I was able to borrow one for a job, & I asked the guy who did the blasting about feathering the blast depth at the edges, & then overlapping enough that the seams would be minimized. He said he had done it before & not to worry. The result was very disappointing & when I commented on that, he said he would try harder on the second one. The second was extremely improved, although still noticable, so I think a lot of the answer to your question has to do with the skill & care of the person blasting it.
This photo is not close enough to see too much & I'm not sure at this point if it is the better or the worse one, though probably the better one because it is their primary entrance. You can see a slight vertical line from this distance. It was worse in person.
I see the vertical lines you spoke of. I wouldn't worry too much about that beacause you will get a similar effect when blasting redwood because of knots.
We use a blasting frame for our foam signs. We don't experience quite the ridges you do but we do still get some.
I would try to borrow a frame before you aquire a GrainFrame or make your own. That way you see first hand how it is going to fit in your scope of business.
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6451 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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Well maybe I'm the exception to the rule! I like a more rugged look to blasted HDU, I think the GF makes things look too perfect, and that then feels too much like "computer made" like perfect routed signs.
When I got my router I was asked if I would stop blasting, the answer was no, I like the "life" you get in a blasted sign. There is no right or wrong way its down to what you like.
Here is a sign I am making right now, I am routing in a strwaberry in relief using Artcam, but the rest is blasted and I use a frame I made years ago, with angle iron and gardenwire, I have made loads of signs this way and never had any complaints.
Really appreciate the response! Kinda what I expected. Since I am gonna be the one running the blaster I suspect the skill level might cause some problem with the overlap...heh, heh. I had about decided to build one long enough to blast the 6' length I need. This decided it for me.
Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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Wow Henry! Your post came while I was composing the one to Doug and Bruce. Great Job! How did you get the rough look?
Thanx! Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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Just realized I forgot to mention the great job (with the exception of the blast overlap...) on your sign, Doug. Like the design a lot!
Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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Hi again its midnight here, but I might find some pics of my frame, I just move the wires with one hand and blast with the other, it goes fast, as I blast with a 1/4 nozzle.
Its not pretty but I like the results I get and I made it myself ( I know it shows )
and here
and another example from awhile back.
Pre router days so the letters etc are handcut, on my scrollsaw
[ July 07, 2004, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: Henry Barker ]
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Thanx for the welcome, Doug. I am sending in my tax so I will become a resident instead of a visitor soon. I'll post a picture when I put the frame together.
Henry, love the work! Bet the customer did too. Thanx for sharing the pictures. I really, really enjoy seeing great signs.
Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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We made our own frame also. When the frame was stretched too tight the result was mechanical and too perfect looking leading to seam stitching errors like Doug experienced. Loose wires gave a random woodgrain result as they moved around and it got rid of the seams.
ernie
-------------------- Balch Signs 1045 Raymond Rd Malta, NY 12020 518 885-9899 signs@balchsigns.com http://www.balchsigns.com Posts: 1695 | From: MaltaNY | Registered: Jan 2000
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I made my own also. 5' long and about 18" wide. I also found that loose wire makes a more interesting looking grain. I actually put some slight bends in the wire and got good results. Not sharp bends though, just loose curvy ones.
-------------------- Dave Utter D-utterguy on chat Sign Designs Beardstown, Il. signdesigns@casscomm.com Posts: 777 | From: beardstown, illinois, usa | Registered: Mar 1999
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We have 2 x 4 grain frame and also one we made our selves which it 4 x 8. The key with the 2 x 4 is not trying to go too far at one time. If you use only 36 inches of the length and move it often you will elimimate the vertical lines. Also if you want to get some knot effects, use some 3m spray adhevsive and make little globs at various points on your wires. Hope this helps some.
You all have been very helpful. I really appreciate the spirit of sharing I find here. Really could have spent some un-necessary money or some valuable time in trial and error to learn what I've learned from you all.
THANK YOU!
Jack "Did I spel that write?"
-------------------- Jack Keith Keith Signs and Graphics 12400 Stemmons Drive Cabool, MO 65689 Posts: 131 | From: Cabool, MO | Registered: Feb 2004
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I made mine out of 3'' sch40 PVC pipe and strung it with stainless steel mig welding wire. If any minuscule fragments of steel happen to get stuck in the foam, they won't rust. It's about 30''x48'' and I built it in an afternoon for about 50 bucks. My next one will have an aluminum frame but the wire on this one hasn't worn out yet. Doesn't look worn much at all and I've done bunches of signs with it.
My wires are loose too and you can't tell the frame was ever moved on large signs. I like the look that the loose wires produce.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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