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Hi Heads. I recently cut masking for a friend who does Kustom painting on cars. I usually use Calon II Cal-Mask. But this time I decided to try Mac Mask from MacTac. It's a sheer grey/silver masking. It was easy to cut and weed BUT When my friend sprayed HOK over it (Mask applied dry) it crinkled and even etched the basecoat/clearcoat paint on the vehicle (wherever the mask touched!) It caused a marbelized-looking haze on the car finish. It also lifted around the edges of the words and bled underneath terribly. I am gonna help him tomorrow night to try to camoflauge the damage using HOK to create a faux finish of some sort around the lettering. It's a small race car. Then he'll clear coat it and we'll pray that the customer thinks that we did it on purpose! I have a call in to the sales rep, but in the mean time, what did we do wrong? Thanks & love...Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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Just got a call from the rep, supposedly this stuff is for "light paint masking" (mine wasn't even in a box) He said he appreciated my feedback but offered no advice or anything. I suggested that this product be labeled in some way to warn others that it does not work with automotive paint. He says that it is, to try a test area first. I guess I'm lucky this is just a small race car and not some $50,000 "ride" huh. Love...Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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BUMMER Jill, sorry to hear that you had this experience, we have had a similar situation in the past with paint mask and unfortunately shame on me for not doing a compatability test first, I guess we should all take this as a reminder as professionals that we MUST do a test in a "hidden" place to make sure that the products will work together to achieve the desired result....BUT IT STILL SUCKS, hope it all ends well
-------------------- Dan Streicher Slidell, LA Posts: 445 | From: Slidell, LA | Registered: Feb 2004
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it kinda sux that we are at the mercy of manufacturers with their products. oh if it f*&ks up we'll replace it...oh and please tell me why would i want to use it again?...let alone the labor is done for free on our part...i love working for nothing and looking like an idiot to my customers! i think the manufacturers should be the ones testing their products b4 they market the crap out of it saying how great it is! just my 2 cents.
-------------------- Karyn Bush Simply Not Ordinary, LLC Bartlett, NH 603-383-9955 www.snosigns.com info@snosigns.com Posts: 3516 | From: Bartlett, NH USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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That is so weird, Jill. I use that mask all the time and use it with HOK. I'm curious what kind of HOK are you using. I use the HOK lettering and striping enamel. If you are using the base coat / clear coat HOK, that might be the problem because that line of HOK probably has a higher solvent content. HMMMMMMMMMMMMM!@#%&?
-------------------- Bill Diaz Diaz Sign Art Pontiac IL www.diazsignart.com Posts: 2107 | From: Pontiac, IL | Registered: Dec 2001
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Bill, it was HOK basecoat/clearcoat. It wasn't me painting it, it was my good friend John, who is a PinHead. My son, who is a fledgling body man with 3 years experience, said that the solvents in the paint must have reacted with the adhesive in the mask. he says he always does a test piece (more brains than his Mom) Ok, next question: Any suggestions on "covering up" the boo-boos? I thought of either marbleizing or using a Saran Wrap effect around the lettering where the mask etched it, with maybe cracked or "busting thru" edges. The car is dull red with candy apple red lettering with a green outline (customer's request) and he gets back in town tomorrow! Needless to say, it will be a busy evening. Love...Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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We spray PPG uros 95% of the time here at our shop, and use HOK only when we have to-but we have run into problems with spray mask leaving adhesive on many jobs using both systems. Our solution is simple-we soak the adhesive with "Goo Gone" adhesive remover (we get it at Wal-Mart), let it sit for a few seconds/minute, the use a squeegee or Lil Chiseler to gently scrape away the adhesive. It hasn't reacted with any of the basecoats, and after getting rid of the adhesive, simply use a quality degreaser (we use PPG DX 330) wipe clean and get ready to paint or clear. Hope I understood your problem correctly, and hope this solution works.
Jereme
-------------------- Jereme Gauthier Kustom Kolor Norway, MI Posts: 33 | From: Norway, MI | Registered: Dec 2003
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