posted
I am considering repainting some redwood signs. /They have been painted with latex paint and are peeling. What are some good chemical paint strippers? Would a heat gun and scraper be better? Thanks for any advise.
Diane Balch
-------------------- Balch Signs 1045 Raymond Rd Malta, NY 12020 518 885-9899 signs@balchsigns.com http://www.balchsigns.com Posts: 1701 | From: MaltaNY | Registered: Jan 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hey Dianne I have done this in the past and can not remember what product that we used to remove the latex paint, and underneath layer upon layer of multiple colors of paint was a 20yr old nice routed sign, I would just go to the hardware store and look on the back of bottles for one that removes latex...I would say to test it first but since you are trying to get the paint off what is the worse that could happen?
-------------------- Dan Streicher Slidell, LA Posts: 445 | From: Slidell, LA | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
The Aircraft stripper Danny is talking about is excellent but its also probably the nastiest and most aggressive out there that you can buy...you can literally total a corvette with it inside of 30minutes or less if you're not careful...its not going to be gentle to the wood at all,and if there is any damaged spots it may not end up well....anyplace that you previously sealed/edgefilled/sealed up cracks etc will have to be redone...it takes the bondo etc off vehicles right along with everything else. I'm not doubting danny can use it successfully but he more than likely has done it a few hundred thousand times and knows the work window hes dealing with,i would be really hesitant to use it on something like that the first time i fooled with it...just $.08
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
a lot of paint strippers here work very well on enamels & lacquers, but are messy & poor with acrylics. Investigate it well. I find sanding works better (with acrylics) if possible.
best wishes!
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I use "Aircraft" all the time on solvent base paints on metal with good results, but can't say yea or nay as to how it deals with latex. It will, however, soak into the wood, and that will cause you problems. It costs around $23 a gallon around here. I can say for sure that "Goof-Off" and "Goo Gone" do absolutely nothing to dried latex paint in spite of their hype. There are two recent developments in sand paper that work, one is a light grey color and the other is green and made to grind down latex. Both cost more than other papers, the green runs a couple bucks a sheet.
Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
I'd use Circa 1850 stripper and a stiff brushh. Works well and won't harm the wood or the glue joints. I'd be very nervous using a pressure washer...I've drilled holes in cedar with one! MUR
-------------------- Murray MacDonald OldTime Signs 529 Third Ave S Kenora, ON. P9N 1Y3 oldtimesigns@gokenora.com Posts: 781 | From: Kenora, ON | Registered: Jan 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
My wife and I have redone some furniture in the past. About the time we were done we found a much easier way. Before this method we were trying to sand, scrub the cracks with a tooth brush, etc...
We used the thin liquid stripper (not the gel) We put plastic and newspaper down and then set the furniure legs in four pans to catch the slop and reuse. Get some rubber gloves, a long sleeve shirt, eye protectant, and some steel wool. Wet the area you want stripped using the steel wool, and let it soak for about 15 minutes or so. Then getting it wet again with the stripper, scrub the surface with the steel wool keeping it really wet. Keep dipping into the pans to keep the steel wool soaked and the paint washes right off. When done wash it off with whatever the stripper can says to use.
It's a pretty messy job, but works great. Just don't get it all over you, in you eyes or blow yourself up!
-------------------- Ace Graphics & Printing Camdenton, MO. USA
posted
Tony Having done a ton of furniture in he past, i agree with everything you say, except the steel wool. If you refinish using any kind of latex, such as on a sign background, those tiny bits of metal that the steel wool leaves behind will come back to haunt you in the form of rust. A stiff brush works well, with a brass brush for the tight spots. Circa 1850 makes two varieties of stripper, light and heavy body. I've always had better results with the light.
MUR
-------------------- Murray MacDonald OldTime Signs 529 Third Ave S Kenora, ON. P9N 1Y3 oldtimesigns@gokenora.com Posts: 781 | From: Kenora, ON | Registered: Jan 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
I love the line on the back of the can that says "let the stripper do the work". I've used 3M Scotchbrite pads (you know a green scrubby) rather than steel wool, a scraper, and brass brush. Also a set of probes kind of like dental tools you can get from most hardware stores for in the grain. Down in the grain may also have a thicker layer of paint, so a second chemical bath may be needed. You'll want to make sure all the residue is gone/neutralized too or your new paint won't like it. Personally, I really hate to strip paint.
![[FYI]](graemlins/fyi.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic