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At least I hope not. I just bought a new DeVilbliss spray gun and absolutely love it. I can spray and clean the gun faster than it took me to roll a coat. And no more orange peel.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Okay now wipe the overspray from your teeth (because you were smiling too much when spraying). Make sure you are wearing an approved respirator.
-------------------- "Are we having fun yet?" Peter Schuttinga DZines Sign Studio 1617 Millstream rd Victoria BC V9B-6G4 Posts: 521 | From: Victoria BC | Registered: Mar 2002
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-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
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now you gota learn to spray automotive ACRYLIC ENAMEL and you will never roll another board.
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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Scott, go to your local automotive paint supplier and purchase whatever brand they stock as their best cartridge respirator. You might as well buy something that you can get replacement cartridges for. They will surely have it.
3M makes one as well as Survivair and MSA all are reputable manufacturers.
-------------------- Harris Kohen K-Man Pinstriping and Graphix Trenton, NJ "Showing the world that even I can strategically place the pigment where its got to go." Posts: 1739 | From: Trenton, NJ, USA | Registered: Jun 2001
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A respirator all depends on the paint you are using, using waterbase Createx and synthethic enamels, a twin cartridge unit will work well. But for urethanes, basecoat clearcoat, a fresh-air unit and a desposible paint suit is the only way to go. This is because the spray that surrounds you is much more hazardous and these paints can attack your nervous system through the pores of your skin. Theres so much more to say and so much more you should learn before attempting these paints.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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I want to start spraying my panels too. My biggest hangup is the possibility of explosion. With an HVLP gun, is the overspray light enough that the hazard of explosion is minimal?
I have a seperate paint room with an exhaust fan, but it is not an explosion proof fan. It IS a brushless induction motor, therefore no sparks, but I have floresent lights (the kind with a plastic wrap lens over the entire unit with standard switches and a variable speed switch (in the wall) for the fan.
As far as respirators for air brushing, that is a 2 sided question. For spraying straight One Shot or water base paints, a standard respirator (covers nose and mouth) is fine. If you are adding isocyanates to the One Shot, or spraying automotive base coat clear coat with iso's in them, you need full head and body protection.
Isocyanates want to latch onto moisture, thus they can invade your body when airborne from spraying, through your eyes mouth and nose and even your skin. I just bought a fresh air supplied full hood from Airgas and I love it. I use my Sears compressor for the airbrush and the hood. It is oiless but I still have a tank filter for breathing air. I can see great and all my mucus membranes are protected. It is as light as a feather and they make replaceable shields for the clear faceplate when it gets too full of overspray.
edit: Are there automotive paints that are iso free and not a bomb waiting to go off?
[ June 01, 2004, 05:14 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5401 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I bought a HVLP...$400 with some goodies. No overspray to speak of. But that was the main reason I went with the more costly one...the selling factor was very little overspray.
I sprayed 1-Shot right outdoors today with no respirator. But of course it was a windy day and the wind blew it away from me or I felt a little safe. I do have a good respirator though. WE sprayed automotives once...I swore never again. They are not my bag.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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*** NOTHING that you aerosolize and spray unprotected where you can breathe it in is safe***....it will not necessarily kill you right away but the effects are cumulative and once you notice them its too late,joeys explanation is a good one as far as what happens
Dave without an explosion proof set up the risk of explosion is always there,even hours later when you think the room is vented out.To simplify things,Solvent based overspray likes to climb high as it can at first before it starts to settle and drop.....the more humid it is the less room it has to settle downward and can be held suspended longer,and it can also be,depending on the type material sprayed very "sticky" to simplify things,meaning what goes up might not necessarily come down until its hit by more overspray and a double dose may be just enuff to go boom...or it may cling to wiring long enough that it eventually corrodes it etc ...are you going to have less with an HVLP set up? yes but it only takes one time for everything to flash no matter how little there is. The biggest deterrent to think about is that the majority of people that get caught in these inhale by reflex the same second the flash happens and inhale the flame cloud and cook from inside before the rest of em turn into a briquette. Having said that,they're bound to be 100 people waiting in the wings to say how long they've done this or that,or you dont need this or that,or how they paint and smoke simultaneously with that walmart $8.99 boxfan running..i listen to that all day and the only thing i can add there is good for them....theres always the segment of every industry like this that feels it not only a badge of honor but an indication of both greater talent and intelligence to push the curve and jackrig every portion of the process outside of whats good sense or even what makes sense in everything they do, rather than taking time to do stuff the right way....usually the same ones nothing happens to because they're flat out too stupid to realize they should/could die.....mostly because they enjoy being cheap and don't want to spend the money or time to do things the right way.I realize you're not trying to do that but believe me the advice from the other side of the coin is out there. Having rambled about all that,are there automotive paints out there that are iso free,the answer is yes....theres alotta stuff out/coming out now thats UV cured either thru the sun or UV lamps...neat idea with a cute but expensive lamps but it doesnt work so hot yet in reality despite what alotta manufacturers will claim...they're just not 'there' yet with it. There are also waterborne systems out,and in all honestly most suck.They work great in lab conditions,which absolutely noone has except for the lab. Where you are you may have more success but in this climate they arent worth crap and in all reality probably will never be because of the humidity. They're also,despite what alot of people believe,much more dangerous than to both you and the enviroment than solvent based materials because they're so much more readily absorbed.its a completely different than latex from a safety standpoint.
As far as respirators go you already got good advice...like joey and dave mentioned the hood system is the best but not everyone is going to buy one. A double cartridge works but remember that all those are rated at about 95% efficency. DO NOT use the paper dust or particulate masks,they arent going to stop you from inhaling anything but dust. If you use a cartridge respirator make sure it fits and seals tight..if you put your hands over the cratridges and try to inhale you should feel like youre smothering,you also shouldnt be smelling any odors with one on. 3m makes a dual cartridge respirator that retails for about $30-35 thats disposable and as good as anything they sell as a permanent unit with replaceable cartridges...the replacement kit/prefilters etc can easily run you $30-40 and by then the rubber faceplate can be both nasty,smelling and cracked from solvent exposure and sweat and the exhale valve can also be bad...easier to buy an entire new unit for roughly the same price. I dont know the part number off the top of my head but i'll look at one tommorrow and post it long as i remember to. Keep the respirator in the sealed bag when you dont use it or it will absorb fumes out of the ambient everyday air and ruin it faster,you can also keep it from clogging as fast by stretching pieces of pantyhose over the cartridges which stops the bigger particles,just check to make sure you still get the same air intake when you breathe in. I wouldnt shy away necessarily from any other brands mentioned its just that 3m honestly have the best/most comfortable exhale valve set up right now,they call it cool flow or someting like that and it does make a difference comfort wise if you have it on for awhile. Just $.07,hope it helps
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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One point to add: air exchange is an important factor. Even the best cartridge type repirators may not protect if there is not adequate air exchange. A fresh air system is best, and for isocyanates, necessary. Air movement is also necessary for many paints to cure properly. My polyurethanes can dry splotchy if the air flow is not adequate.
Brad in Kansas
-------------------- Brad Ferguson See More Signs 7931 Wornall Rd Kansas City, MO 64111 signbrad@yahoo.com 816-739-7316 Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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