posted
I did a search on the BB, got some good info, but not exactly what I want.
I need to mount some 13" tall, 1" thick letters to a dryvit wall, about 12 feet off the ground. What I'm wondering about most is letter spacing and so on. I don't want to pounce on that rough wall, and it's probably too rough to use carbon paper. I've used a little stud and glue method in the past, but that was on a 2' thick HDU sign that had an "outline" of each letter carved into the background, so placement was easy.
I thought of taping the pattern to the wall, then pushing little mounting studs in through the paper where the letters are, but I still would have difficulty mounting each letter just right once the paper was gone. I could see myself getting some a little crooked, high or low.
Any suggestions?? Thanks for any help.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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cut vinyl or make a pounce pattern and after you apply the pattern to the wall cut all but a couple inches on the bottom off of the pattern that's all you need to install not the complete outline of the letters just the bottom for alignment, or prespace all of the letters and run a length of masking tape underneath and trace the bottoms of the letters and just put that up and install from there
-------------------- Dan Streicher Slidell, LA Posts: 445 | From: Slidell, LA | Registered: Feb 2004
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If the letters are on stand-offs then we have used a pen plot taped to the wall. Drill and attach the letters but just before you "push" them home....tear out the paper. Even if they are not on stand-offs you can do the same thing. Drill and apply what ever adhesive, push your letters on the stud leaving about 1/4-3/8 inch. Then come back and tear out the paper and drive them home.
posted
Checkers had a foolproof method of transfering a stud mount hole pattern to a rough surface. Drill the hole pattern into a strip of plywood first and use that as your template. You can't get a misaligned hole or a crooked letter.
-------------------- Mark Casey Casey Sign Co., Inc. Berkley, MI Posts: 76 | From: Berkley, MI, USA | Registered: Mar 1999
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One easy way to get proper spacing is to use a roll of adding machine tape-- lay out the letters on a work table and use tic marks along one edge to note spacing. The stuff is cheap and it's relatively easy to handle if you are on a ladder.
-------------------- Jay Nichols ALPHABET SOUP
~the large print giveth and the small print taketh away~ Posts: 176 | From: SW Florida | Registered: Mar 2002
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I first tackled this problem many, many years ago. I took a roll of adding machine tape and taped it tight to the floor. Placed all the letters along the paper tape and marked the center of each letter on the tape. Then, folded the tape in half for my center and marked it. Then, on a very windy day (lol) taped it to the building, making sure it was level and centered to the proper position. Then, with each letter, I used 100% PURE SILICONE to attach it to the building and held in place with the blue painters tape til it cured. Don't forget the decenders and acenders as you go. If by chance the tape won't stick to the building, use map pins to hold the tape in place. Then, use 2" skinny nails to hold the letters in place til the silicone cures. To quicken the curing of the silicone, just squirt water behind the letters and let it run down the wall. The silicone is moisture cured. Werked fer me...... it'll werk fer you too !!
[ May 18, 2004, 06:22 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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