posted
I have a logo to put on 6 semi truck doors. The main part of the logo will be a black with red fade on top...this is where I was planning to use red vinyl and put a krylon black fade on it. But after testing it...and weeding it. It looked great but the next morning my art work was peeling on the edges.
I did put any krylon clear on this test but planned to do that if the art worked. Anybody know what I can do to make this black to red fade work? Thanks for any help!!!
posted
Georgia...I have never used Krylon, but have done lots of fades like you are talking about, using basecoat/clearcoat.
On 2 mil cast vinyl it works GREAT.
But a couple of years ago I tried it on a job on translucent vinyl for a backlit. Since translucent has a matte finish, I just did the basecoat. Looked great when I did it, and looked great when I installed it. 2 days later the translucent vinyl was peeling off at the edges all over the place. I re-did the job with the same results. Finally gave up and just forgot about the fades.
I have never tried doing fades on 3 mil calendered, but wonder if that was what you were using?
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
Supposedly Krylon has changed their formula. I have had OK luck with that new Rustoleum spray-paint for plastic. But it comes in vomitty-looking colors. I usually do fades with El Cheapo spray-bombs, then spray with 1-Shot UV Clear before weeding. The only time I had chipping was once when my body-man friend sprayed my vynull with basecoat/clearcoat. I ALWAYS use HP Vynull for stuff like this. Love...Jill (but there ain't nuthin like a soft wet blend done by hand )
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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-------------------- Jane Diaz Diaz Sign Art 628 W. Lincoln Ave. Pontiac, Il. 61764 815-844-7024 www.diazsignart.com Posts: 4102 | From: Pontiac, IL USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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Krylon does make a paint that will work well....Fusion. it is designed to adhere to plastic surfaces without any preparation other than cleaning.
I've been using it for about two months with great results on FDC and Avery vinyls, clear plastic and race car noses...
Cut the vinyl as usual and before weeding it, spray your fade onto the entire sheet. If you can get a quick, light coat down, it will dry very quickly, but to be safe, let it set overnight. Weed, app tape it and apply as you normally would.
Hope this helps... Rapid
-------------------- Ray Rheaume Rapidfire Design 543 Brushwood Road North Haverhill, NH 03774 rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com 603-787-6803
I like my paint shaken, not stirred. Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
I always use Createx Auto Air on vinyl, whether it's 3mil or 2 mil. I scuff it thouroughly with grey 3M scotchbrite pads, clean with a degreaser (PPG DX 330) then run it through my plotter and cut the design. I then do a rough outline around the artwork to reduce the amount of vinyl I need to paint, spray the appropriate Createx color, then clear with Krylon. I let the Krylon set for a few minutes, then weed the design, then transfer tape, then stick it. Never had any peeling problems, works with every brand of vinyl I've tried it on (Calon, Arlon, Oracal).
For those of you experiencing peel, are you first scuffing the surface?
-------------------- Jereme Gauthier Kustom Kolor Norway, MI Posts: 33 | From: Norway, MI | Registered: Dec 2003
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OOPS...I forgot...I heatset the Auto Air before clearing with the Krylon (VERY IMPORTANT). I also don't lay the Createx on too thick, instead I build several thin coats, heatsetting with a heatgun between coats....
-------------------- Jereme Gauthier Kustom Kolor Norway, MI Posts: 33 | From: Norway, MI | Registered: Dec 2003
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