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I just finished airbrushing/lettering a helmet with 1-shot and I have concerns on how to go about clear coating it. The last helmet I cleared lifted the paint off of the helmet, did I clear it too fast? Is there a certain time you should wait to let the paint dry completely before clearing it? Also, I was told to lightly wet sand after the first clear, then add the second, third and so on. Is this necessary? Any tips or advice will be appreciated!! Thank you.
-------------------- Herbie Niska H & K Painting Dassel, MN 612-518-2565 Posts: 15 | From: Dassel, MN | Registered: Dec 2003
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A generic acrylic clear from the local Bumper to Bumper!! That was before I learned to go with 1 shot the whole way through!! I am just concerned if the 1 shot clear will do the same...
-------------------- Herbie Niska H & K Painting Dassel, MN 612-518-2565 Posts: 15 | From: Dassel, MN | Registered: Dec 2003
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While I haven't used it yet, One Shot is now offering a clear for application over One Shot products. It's 4009/4010 (Gloss/Matte) "UCO" Urethane Clear Overcoat. And I would Imagine it's available thru your One Shot Dealer.
I work in Automotive Base Coat/Clearcoat so I may never use that material, but another Clear you might try if you can't access The One Shot, is PPG DC 3000/DCH3095. This is a "Spot Refinishing Clear", very fast working time, no added reducer or solvents, dry to sand and/or rub in 1.5 to 2 hrs, and relatively Inert.
I have topcoated One Shot (8 hr drying time)with it, and use it very sucessfully over leaf (Rolco Synthetic Size or water based), either sprayed or brushed. Spraying, you don't "Tack coat". As with any other Urethane clear you must apply a thin, wet coat, just like you want it to look when it's done! 2 coats is usually enough, but 3 will work.
One thing, If you want to re-coat after it's dried, sand well with 800 or so, Scotchbrite doesn't abrade it well enough and it WILL de-laminate when dry. (in sheets!)
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I would allow PLENTY of drying time, and even do a test-piece on some scrap. The 1S-UV clear in the spray-bomb invariably crinkles for me. I prefer to quicky and lightly brush on the 1S-UV clear in the white-label can with a Foamie. Love...Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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1shot is designed to be a topcoat not a basecoat and 8hrs may still very well be nowhere near long enuff time window to ensure 1shot is ready to go.....uncatalyzed enamel can feel ready to the touch and be nowhere near fully cured. Like mentioned,it dries from the top down and literally any one of 40 different reasons could have caused the top to close over and feel ready to go to the touch and still be soft underneath...all you need is one pinhole from that point on where solvent can get in (even one thats not vivible to your eye) and once it gets behind there its going to lift. Automotvive clears are designed to crosslink with the basecoat not sit on top...so a really really simplified way of looking at it is that type of clear is always going to look for a place to melt itself into whats underneath it so it can cure itself into one layer....if it finds a weak spot while doing that its gonna lift and wrinkle. The whole auto clear over 1shot process is very iffy at best and never a really good idea...yes 1shot has some catalyzed clears available now made for topcoating their enamel but realistically maybe 5% of the people who ever try this are going to actually try the 1shot clear...the rest are going to use whatever they can get the cheapest or whatever someone else claims they have sucess with. Also consider this....topcoating or graffitti proofing a sign that sits statically in one place its whole life and needs a llittle more protection than just plain enamel provides is one thing.....having clear thats tuff enough to withstand being sandblasted with different types of debris repeatedly at 60mph for an hour at a time over and over is another....thats two radically different enviroments,not to mention some of those uncatalyzed UV clears dont get fully cured for up to 30 days....I know the 1shot clear being recommended is catalyzed but you dont know how its going to perform both before and after you spray it as far as ease of repairability,gloss,etc...may not have the depth of gloss you're looking for,not easily recoated,sanded & polished......you dont know until you start fooling with it. Thats not a knock on the 1shot product by any means,but it is relatively new so its going to be a bit b4 anyone knows how its going to perform under different types of conditions like that.....most of that stuff you would never do to a sign yet for a helmet or bike parts you would need to. Someone else mentioned the PPG DC 3000 clear,just be aware that for some reason it seems to like to to lift itself at times during recoat if you get a little too heavy handed during the application.
Just remember what works for one person doing this doesnt always work for everyone,usually what happens is that they tell you how they do it in 5 steps when they really use 7 and dont realize it....If you really are determined to clear over 1shot my advice is to do 2 things: #1 hit the search button and tpye in clearing 1shot,this topic hits up every so often #2 look down this page some for a post looking for tropical birds or something like that by George Perkins and get George's email and talk to him about clearing the stuff...he'll give you the best advice and method of doing it without jackrigging the whole process all to hell and back....hope this helps.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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With plenty of drying time, urethane clears may not wrinkle or lift, but adhesion is not the best unless you add hardner to the One Shot. One Shot says you have to add hardner to the paint even with their own clears. Since you have alredy painted, I would wait as stated in the above posts, scuff the paint, then apply a couple light dust coats before you lay the clear on wet.
When doing basketball floors, which of course get a topcoat of urethane, if we didn't add hardner to the paint, we'd wait at least 2 weeks before clearcoating.
Edit: Gavin posted while I did. He said it best. Since you are stuck on this one having already painted, I'd give it some major drying time before clearing with anything.
[ May 17, 2004, 02:31 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Take heed to the educated info you recieve here. As has been said, the OneShot has GOT to be cured or it will wrinkle.
oooooooo, I HATE it when that happens, lol
Most recent horror story (about 3 years ago)
I had a guy who was gonna take the bike I flamed to a well known bodyshop here to have it cleared. I repeatedly told him to have them bake-it, but he must'a lied to 'em because they never would'a cleared it if they had known I just painted it a day or two before. . . . .
Anyway, I got perty good money to strip it, repaint it and reflame it for the poor guy . . . lol . . . and just think he had choked a little on the ORIGINAL price but reluctantly paid . . . then I realy got to make him GAG with a really chastisin' price for his utter disobedience.
ANYWAY, I said all this to tell ya that you might wanna try usin' a bake-booth at your local body shop if they'll let you.
-------------------- Signs Sweet Home Alabama
oneshot on chat
"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog" Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003
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Hey and Pacific Coast Paint in Portland has the entire line of One Shot Product in their store and is now a merchant here, so if you have problems locating a product that you need check them out (check them out anyways they have a amazing store and it is important for us to do business with the merchants who support this site)give them a call or check out their website, phone # 800-752-0028, website address http://www.pacificcoastpaint.com/contact.htm
-------------------- Dan Streicher Slidell, LA Posts: 445 | From: Slidell, LA | Registered: Feb 2004
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One Shot is a single component alkyd enamel which along with other enamels in this group in any brand, takes a minimum of 14 days to cure. Ambient temperature, humidity, and air movement can change that time to up to 30 days. If it is not cured in 30 then there is a question as to the freshness of the paint, how well mixed it is and how many of its original components are still in it. Adding hardener does nothing to aid in adhesion but will give the enamel a harder top set which is more resistant to pick up when topcoating and is more abraision resistant. If the hardener is added to OneShot (or other alkyd enamels) then it will top cure enough to be top coated in about 36 hours and will finish curing under the topcoat. The key is to have most if not all of the solvents evaporate so that the chemical cure can commence which will finish even in a sealed environment.
[ May 17, 2004, 05:14 PM: Message edited by: Kent Smith ]
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm glad you said that Kent, I've mentioned it in the past on a number of posts but the same question comes over and over again. Guess no one really gives a ratsass to what I gotta say. Guess Frank Manning will come on next and tell us how it is from his side of the fence post
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Well, I'll add my two cents in here, I'm no chemist but I've cleared over One Shot hundreds of times. I started doing in in the eighties when nobody knew anything and I learned the hard way. I found from experience adding a catalyst to the One Shot doesn't make or break the job nor does waiting a certain amount of time. I learned from Bob Aton, to use the same type paint as a base as you are clearing with. In other words, if you are clearing with Imron, letter on Imron. You also have to take great care in assuring the surface will provide good adhesion of the One Shot, in other words , sand it good before you letter/stripe/airbrush. DO NOT use a stabillo for layouts. If it doesn't burn, you run the danger of leaving a ghost. If you oil your brushes, make sure you clean them thoroughly, any oil contamination will spell trouble. The most important part though, is in the application of the clear. You need to dust on at least three really dry coats and then "sneak up" on the gloss. If you hit it too hard it WILL wrinkle As far as the time necessary for the One Shot to dry, I've cleared over it a few minutes after I have lettered it and up to a few days after lettering and never saw a difference. All that said, it's just too easy to use the automotive base coat colors for your artwork. Most of them will work quite well in a brush for striping also. That way you can hammer the hell out of the clear with no worries.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
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For Pete's Sake! Not to be a wiseass here, but actually if you're gonna paint something to be clearcoated over, use the right paint in the first place! One shot is a Synthetic Alkyd Enamel meant to be applied with a brush as a Lettering or striping Enamel for SURFACE WORK!
PPG as well as a myriad of other manufacturers provide several different kinds of Base Coat / Clear Coat systems that'll work easier, take all the suspense and mystery out of the application, last longer under exposure to UV, Seawater, etc. I even stripe with DBC if theres to be a clear topcoat applied and it stripes better than One Shot. Frank Manning has watched me do it and I think would agree with this, more or less!
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That was before I learned to go with 1 shot the whole way through!! I am just concerned if the 1 shot clear will do the same...
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. . . and just think he had choked a little on the ORIGINAL price but reluctantly paid . . . then I realy got to make him GAG with a really chastisin' price for his utter disobedience. ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
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