posted
I have some Chromatic paint (ivory), probably from the mid 90s. It seems OK, only had a slight skin on top.
Do you think it's OK to use this paint? The substrate is MDO already primered from supplier. I plan on putting 2 coats of ivory, then some vinyl letters, then one shot clear acrylic.
Thanks, Steve P.S. I think I know Si's answer...
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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LOL - buy paint every decade... (just not much call for ivory - he he he)...
Problem is, getting into the vinyl side is keeeling me on expenses. Every new sign is a new roll(s) of a different color vinyl. Not much inventory built up yet...
It's funny, when i was doing signs part time and had more money from my full time job, i wouldn't think twice about buying stuff. Now i'm much more cautious.
Thanks, Steve
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
Sure you cn, most likely you have some good stuff (with lead) I would have it shaken, then use it. I would also use Sheila's advice with the strainer, you'll get a better finish.
Why clear vinyl letters?
-------------------- aka:Cisco the "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist" http://www.franciscovargas.com Fresno, CA 93703 559 252-0935 "to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98 Posts: 3576 | From: Fresno, Ca, the great USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Good question about why clearing vinyl letters. Actually I was going to clear to protect the paint (thought it would give it more durability / less fade).
So maybe i should nix the clear?
Thanks, Steve
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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Back away from the old paint - don't even try to use it -- send it to me, and I'll -- uh...properly dispose of it. Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998
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"Hey Steve won't you take a cha-hance C'mon Stevie let me have this dance~ I might have a skin, but that's okay~ Scrape it off and use me anyway LET'S PAINT!" -sung by the can of Chromatic in its best Lou Christie voice! (I hope that's who sang that old song...before my time)
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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I would and have used old paint, However the one-shot Rep. told me that the older paint can have problems because of the dryers in the paint will "bind up" with the pigments and cause very slow dry times. I asked him because I did have some wierd dry times with of my paint. Just passing on what I was told, (still using some old paint I had on the shelves, Too damn cheap to throw it away when someone will pay to take it away a little at a time! LOL ) DeWayne
-------------------- DeWayne Connot DOA Flatliners Pinstriping To Die For! Northwales, Pa dconnot@verizon.net Posts: 28 | From: Northwales, PA | Registered: Jan 2004
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Hi Steve, I've never had a problem with old 1-Shot or Chromatic, BUT..I've had several problems with "pre-primed" MDO! I always put a coat on myself.
[ March 05, 2004, 08:01 AM: Message edited by: Terry Baird ]
-------------------- Terry Baird Baird Signs 3484 West Lake Rd. Canandaigua, NY 14424 Posts: 790 | From: Canandaigua, New York | Registered: Dec 2002
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I called my supplier this morning (Pioneer Supply in NJ) and asked what they used as a primer. They said they will get back to me...
I do have a rather basic question about edge sealing and priming. I cut out the sign shape and, without thinking went ahead and edge sealed with West Systems epoxy. Then i began to wonder, should i have reprimed the edge before edge sealing?
(Believe it or not, this is my first MDO sign in 14 years - all my other signs have been redwood, mahogany, HDU or Dibond.)
Thanks, Steve
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
Steve...As mentioned...the old paint should not be a problem....a few words of caution..pull the skin off before shaking and check the bottom of the can after shaking to make sure the pigment is all off the bottom of the can. Any colors with heavy pigments tend to settle and get rock hard in the bottom of the can. If your concerned with dry time....use 5% by volume #4007 Hardner (20 parts paint to 1 part 4007 Hardner). This should give you a nice glossy, tough surface. I would also suggest NOT clearing unless you feel the vinyl won't hold up. The paint will be fine. Last note....definately strain the paint....just to be sure.
-------------------- Frank Manning Manning Enterprises Unlimited 24832 John J. Williams Hwy., Unit 1, PMB 10 Millsboro, DE., 19966 Posts: 32 | From: Longneck, DE | Registered: Jan 2002
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We have been making MDO signs for 10 years- an never have had a paint failure. We seal the edges with /West Systems Epoxy mixed with their fairing compound ( powdery filler). We mix a lot of filler in so that it is very thick. Then we spread it on the edge , let it dry for at least 7 hours, then sand it. Each time we prime the front and the back we prime the edges. Currently we use Jay Cooke's primer. Our oldest MDo sign is 10 years old and we use Zinnser 1-2-3 Bullseye primer - 3 coats, followed by 2 coats of ONe Shot lettering enamel.
Diane Balch Balch Signs
-------------------- Balch Signs 1045 Raymond Rd Malta, NY 12020 518 885-9899 signs@balchsigns.com http://www.balchsigns.com Posts: 1701 | From: MaltaNY | Registered: Jan 2000
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I put the first coat of ivory on the sign today. Boy i sure miss the smell of leaded one shot / chromatic ...
I bought a gallon of Sign Prime because i'm doing some HDU signs so that's what i used for my primer coats.
I do need to get the filler from West Systems. I just put two heavy coats of epoxy without the filler on the edges. Previously i had only used the West Systems as a glue and had no need for the filler.
Thanks again for your help! Steve
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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