I just made a deal with a local boat dealer in Wisconsin for various types of signage for their shop. The owner is willing to promote my business, but I need to come up with a display having examples of the designs that I do and such... this is no problemo.
They asked me about printing digital images on the vinyl graphics, however, I have not made any print jobs for a marine environment and I do not know if the Resin Process from a pc600 will hold up in the water.
What can I do to protect the images? Frog Juice or some other UV coating?? Or is there another process that I would have better luck with?
ShaBU
-------------------- Craig Shaub Dig-It All Sign Company 306-30th Avenue Kenosha, Wi 53144 262-553-9519 dig_it_allsignco@hotmail.com Posts: 34 | From: Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2002
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you will need a finish coat of either clear liquid (like Frog Juice) or overlaminate. we use laminate for marine purposes. it works best for us. maybe Mike Pipes can offer some advice on what he does for the jetski/pwc work he does.
-------------------- Scott Pagan Admark Graphic Systems Admark Motorsports Graphics 9700 Metromont Ind Blvd Charlotte, NC 28269 www.admarkgraphics.com Posts: 325 | From: Charlotte, NC | Registered: Nov 2001
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I will inquire about that. I figured that some kind of laminant would be necessary.... I appreciate your advice!!
I see that you are in Charlotte, NC. I will be visiting near there to see my DiscGolf partner. He just moved there. We are going to be playing the Winthrop Course, Renaissance Park, and other area courses. Do you play discgolf?? Here is the link if you care to check it out.... Charlotte Disc Golf Club
Thanks again! ShaBU
-------------------- Craig Shaub Dig-It All Sign Company 306-30th Avenue Kenosha, Wi 53144 262-553-9519 dig_it_allsignco@hotmail.com Posts: 34 | From: Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2002
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it's not usually the water itself that gets you- it's the double whammy of the sun hitting the graphics normally AND the water reflecting MORE SUN. Thus you get twice the exposure, plus whatever damage water misting on the graphics would do (remember how bad you got sunburned while frolicking in the surf at the beach when you were a kid??).
The water itself shouldn't harm the graphics per se, it's basically rainwater. Unless you park your boat 500 feet froma coal-burning power plant, like people do near my house.
I must say I only speak from EDGE experience---i have never dealt with PC600 troubles, so take this with a grain of salt...
-------------------- Steve Burke Cascades Inc NS Canada
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving isn't for you Posts: 359 | From: NS Canada | Registered: Jan 2002
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The thermal resins wear off eventually if they're subjected to any abbrassion, like water rushing over them.
In a marine environment, Frog Juice most likely is not your best bet. It takes 40 days to fully cure, during which time it can be broken down by just about any mild solvent, including gasolines or waxes used by boat owners which could be petroluem based.
You could get into spraying urethane clearcoat over the prints but an overlaminate is most likely your best bet. Spraying urethanes opens a whole new can of worms (shop safety and mess).
I'm making the jump into the Convex vinyls and overlaminates by Graphic Marking Systems (http://www.graphicms.com/) because they have materials for abusive environments like motocross, ATV's and jetskis. If required I could produce graphics with a 24mil thickness, but basically they have 4 and 8 mil vinyls with several thicknesses of laminates available. The downside for you is that this material is designed for the EDGE, so it's only available in 15" widths. However, I called them on Friday and I brought up compatibility with Roland's machines (specifically the 54" Solvent unit) and they had mentioned they were contacted by Roland, looking into making wider rolls available.
I also asked about the bond strength of the Convex overlaminate when using hot lamination versus cold lamination - there isn't any. Looks like I'll be building my own laminator in the future too.
Now, since the material is only available in white and clear, I need to find someone that can print for me instead of rolling or spraying on vinyl screenprinting ink.
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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Hiya Craig, If it's a large enough job, consider 3M Scotchprint graphics. It will last longer than the thermal printing processes. If you use the search option here and look up edge and colorcam, you'll find a lot of comments about both, pro & con.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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quote:Originally posted by Checkers: If it's a large enough job, consider 3M Scotchprint graphics. It will last longer than the thermal printing processes.
that's what we do!
-------------------- Scott Pagan Admark Graphic Systems Admark Motorsports Graphics 9700 Metromont Ind Blvd Charlotte, NC 28269 www.admarkgraphics.com Posts: 325 | From: Charlotte, NC | Registered: Nov 2001
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I would recommend a film overlaminate for graphics if they are to be underwater/under the bowling. Both Gerber and GMS over great lams for Gerber EDGE---I would imagine this would apply to your Roland prints as well.
I would also recommend looking into a product like 3M Edge Sealer. Originally designed for used on airplanes, it comes in a dauber can like the rubber cement we used to 'play with' as kids in school. After your graphic is applied, you run a bead of this around the outside of the graphic, half on the graphic, half on the surface. This will help you with water rushing over the edge causing prmature lifting.
Oh yeah, simple point---keep your cutlines simple. Smooth and curvy will last way longer than sharp and pointy anyday!
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