This will be my first attempted at a signblasted sign. Wahoo! Finally get to do one. The cupola and the Action Farms was her logo to begin with, so I designed this with it for her entrance sign. 2" HDU copper leaf cupola and gold leaf main copy. Installed on a stucco coated base and all installed at the entrance to the farm. Hope it's a good candidate for a sandblasted sign.
See ya.....
[ July 22, 2003, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: Chuck Gallagher ]
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
Chuck not only is it one of the nicest blasted signs I've seen in some time but your design is outstanding.
Keep up this kind of work and you'll stay busy the rest of your life.
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Gees Bob you gave me goosebumps......thanks for the compliment! I still keep dreaming, someday I'll be as good as those guys in the magazine!
See ya.....
[ July 22, 2003, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: Chuck Gallagher ]
Posted by David Wright (Member # 111) on :
Nice Chuck. Love the design.
Posted by vance galliher (Member # 581) on :
hi chuck, maybe smalts one of the bkgds ?
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Thanks alot David! Vance, the green is smalts!
See ya.....
Posted by Myra Grozinger (Member # 327) on :
I don't think to look at the portfolio page very often, but I'm glad I did this time. Your sign is just beautiful, Chuck!!!!
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
Yes Chuck, that's a keeper.
Have you thought about varying the way the background is blasted? Possibly do the green part smalts, or a pebbly finish, then maybe a woodgrain look in the gray area, then back to smooth on the wider border. Then you could have a raised stripe on both sides of the border. Or maybe just vary the depth...without the woodgrain.
Just thought I'd give you food for thought about the blast itself..........Also remember that the thinnest ares will be pretty fragile in 15# foam. The more fine detail you have, the more you might want to think about a heavier density HDU.
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished piece....good luck with it ! Posted by vance galliher (Member # 581) on :
it will look great !.......remember to round over the gilded ltrs...........
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Thank you Myra! Jeff, I thought about woodgraining part, but didn't want to over do it plus it's my first one. And thanks for the thin line tip. I was planning on 18lb Signfoam II or maybe this stuff called Design Foam from my local supplier, but I don't know anything about Design Foam. Anyone ever used it?
Thanks again Vance! I'm really excited about doing this one.
Take Care,
Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
Nice job! Assume it was generated in 'Eyecandy'?
I've been doing some nice conceptuals in EC myself, but when I bring them back into Corel Draw and Powerclip them into the original vector, my EC textures are never quite centered in the vector even with extract editing.
'Design Foam' I heard recently was crap, although I don't have any direct experience with it. I did, however, re-face some older Precision Board (about 5 years old)and was surprised how very pourous and brittle it is and it was never outdoors.
Again, nice job.
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Hi Fran, the effects to show the depth of sanblasted layers is done eyecandy, but I use it in photopaint. I don't apply the effect and then powerclip back into the vector, so I can't help you much on the alignment part.
Thanks for the tip on Design Foam, but I'd like to hear more from others on it too!
Take Care
Posted by Mark Yearwood (Member # 2723) on :
That's a beautiful design and will make for a killer dimensional sign!
Posted by Mark Yearwood (Member # 2723) on :
Hey, what about inserting a piece of stained glass into the cupola window?
Posted by Janette Balogh (Member # 192) on :
Premo!
Would look good as a multi-level too. The the green capsule shaped area, and the cupola on a second level?
Have never used copper leaf outdoors, not sure about any issues with it with regards to weathering. May want to check into that.
Get paid well ... this one is top shelf!
Nettie
Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
I concur with Jan: This would almost have to be a multi-level sign. It is billed as a sandblasted sign, but would more appropriately be classified as a carved/sandblasted which, in my appraisal, would entail routing thinner HDU for the scrolls, for instance, and other, key areas. Much more handsome with multi-levels and, thus, significantly more expensive!
BTW- anyone know where I can get some free vector scrolls off the net or third party? The Ruby/ Safire Collection, etc. seems a bit pricey. Too bad that vendor doesn't allow the sale of individual deco scrolls as needed.
Thanks.
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
Fran,
Mike Jackson has some awesome scroll designs. Check out his collection. Golden Studios I believe.
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Thanks Mark and that's a good idea on the glass, but since I don't know how to work with it, guess it won't make it on this one!
As far as the sign construction goes, guess I'll explain a little more. The sign does have two layers at this point. The background and the background for the "Action Farms" are on the same plane and the rest is on the first plane with the exception of the cupola. Part of it (inside the face itself) will be blasted as the first plane and then I'll have to add an applique to get it over the outside lines and the first plane which means sort of a third layer and then maybe the same thing with the Action Farms. Blast flat with first layer and then add another (gilded) to it to bring it the cupola level. And bevel them to the back. That's probably clear as mud, but I tried!
I haven't checked into the copper outside durability, so if anyone knows please tell me. I thought about using acutal copper, but didn't know how to secure it to the HDU. I need to find this out soon so I can present it!
Thanks for all the feedback. I may even show her the posts too!
See ya
Posted by John Deaton III (Member # 925) on :
Fran, the creator of the Ruby collection is a resident here. Don Coplen. If you knew how much work went into digitizing all those scrolls, etc. you'd get more of a grasp of why they cost what they do. I own several collections, and they have more than paid for themselves.
And Chuck, this design is great! Gonna make a great dimensional sign for sure. Lot of good tips in the posts above too. Have fun with it!
Posted by Terry Whynott (Member # 1622) on :
Great sign Chuck! Hope you'll show us the finished sign when you're done.
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Thanks Terry,
I hope to take a full set of pictures of the progress and for sure will post the final outcome.
Thanks All....
Posted by Kathy Joiner (Member # 1814) on :
Chuck, you mentioned that you were dreaming that someday you would "be as good as those guys in the magazine."
THIS IS A CHALLENGE! When this sign is completed and installed, send a picture of it to Sign Craft. I'm willing to bet that it will be published! It is THAT good.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Nice design Chuck! First class.
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
What's going on behind the sign? I guess it goes without saying, that a lot of important things are going on behind a good sign. Any reinforcement or backing ? Is it flat on the stucco, or is it offset ? Mounting method ? I have been guilty of overlooking some of these things in the past, resulting in a few less than favorable results. Just make sure it will still be straight 5 years from now... Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
Thanks for that Kathy! I just may do that! Then I'll have my name in SignCraft AND the phone book! Wahoo!............just kiddin' That would be an honor to have them publish my work.
Thanks Wayne!
Jeff That's an excellent question and I was going to ask for advice on that too! The frame itself is cca 2"x6" with enough supports to allow attachment of the HDU. It's all wrapped with 3/4 cdx plywood. Primed and finish with a pre-mix stucco from Home Depot. It will be slid down over 4x4 set in concrete. But when it comes to the face, what's the "best" way (and the HDU won't be backed unless I need to) to attach the sign to the base? I have ideas, but any "tricky" secrets for this?
See ya
Posted by Chuck Gallagher (Member # 69) on :
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