whats a good method to hang a flat .040 aluminum sign on a corrugated steel wall.(4'x12') structure is steel skeleton...so attaching a sign framewill require drilling heavy steel any alternative? we used stainless screws into the steel siding on high spots. wind took it down twice
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Hey man, just found this on here and fiddlin' around with this reply is a great escape from the drudgery . . .
I can't imagine why the wind got yer sign. Did'ja pre-drill too large or what? We gotta lotta signs up like that and never had one come down . . . just exactly what kind'a wind are we talkin' about, bro?
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
get a box of SELF-TAPPER screws....these have a small drill bit om the end of the screw, with a hex head 1/4-5/16 socket in a cordless drill a snap to install. then one you got it up with these you can add some heavy duty bolts.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
....That's what we use too. . . . and they have a hex-pan-head. I get the one that fits the 3/8 hex-drive bit and then 1" or 1 1/4" long. But I never add any heavier ones. Just those every 2" ft. or 18" or so across the top, we have added washers but they really seem to serve no purpose with the pan-head. . . . oh yeh, try to center the sign so that the ends of the panel are on ribs. Usually 2-3" of overhang is all you'll have and that's ok, but if there was 10" or so the wind could get under that on an .040 (and mabey that's what caused yours to rip off) ... but with those self-tappin' screws it you'd just have a nasty bend on the end of yer sign. But even so, .040 signage is no match for gale force winds . . .
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
I tend to agree with Sheila, maybe you predrilled too big a hole or had too large of an overhang. I have several flat aluminum signs attached to corrugated buildings for several years now and have yet to have a problem. I live in Illinois where the winds are plenty strong.
First you need to use a heavier gauge -- in the future -- try using .063" sheets. Drill 1/4" holes in the aluminum for every rib. I usually hang a 4'X 8' by myself with 1 screw at the top in the middle. This will hold the sheet until you can move, measure and drill the opposite corners. Pilot an 3/32" hole and attach the sheet with #10 Phillips pan head stainless steel sheet metal screws 1" long. You have to use stainless steel with aluminum, because steel and aluminum will corrode with regular steel screws. You don't want those screws to rust.
The reason your holes in the sheet need to be bigger than the diameter of the screw threads is to allow for expansion and contraction. Aluminum expands and contracts more than steel. In essence you want to allow the aluminum to float. If your overhang does not fall on a rib, which it won't with the size you described on most newer corrugated buildings, you need to cut a stand off for the ends which raises that portion of the sheet even with the height of the rib. I use vinyl tubing for the stand offs --you can cut them to length with a utility knife. Switch to a longer screw for these holes and run them through the sheet, through the tubing and into the metal siding.
For the sign you have aready made, you could attach the sign with aluminum rivets to 1" x 1" aluminum tube frame such as with the Wrisco system. Many suppliers carry this system. Then attach to the siding a top and bottom 1" X 1" aluminum angle and reverse these angles so they fit inside the perimeter of the 1" X 1" tubing. then drill from the top of the sign down throw the angle and drill from the bottom of the sign up through the angle with the stainless steel screws mentioned above. We have also used VH Bond tape to attach the aluminum to the tubing instead of rivets, I have also used Lord's adhesive. Good luck!
[ December 08, 2003, 05:37 PM: Message edited by: Bill Diaz ]
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
hey ....BOONE...now tell us what ya did???? you ax a ? and then just leave it at that???? typical yankee(or aussie... wanker!!!) hahahahahahaha
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
I used stainless screws 3/4 inch and drilled just like Bill said. No strand offs at ends...but ends were very close to ribs My opinion was .040 should have been adequate with the large number of screws I used.
Posted by Jon Butterworth (Member # 227) on :
We install a lotta signs on corrugated using 3/8th HEX head self tapping screws every 3 or 4 ribs to top and bottom, and 6" spacings on the ends and joins. They go thru steel and aluminum without predrilling.
Ain't had one blow done yet Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Michael, Did the aluminum fail(did the screw heads rip through it) or did they rip out of the steel?
They also make different thicknesses of steel siding like (I think) 24, 26, and 29 guage. Anyway, some of it's pretty thin.
You may need to replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and washers. Use the nuts with nylon inserts. They won't work loose. I think the .040 is adequate too if it's anchored down well.
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Michael, The only option I could think of that hasn't been addressed is to bolt through the wall into the inside of the building. Use large washers or a bar to spread the stress over a larger area. Man, this sounds like a job gone severely bad.
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