I've been working on my panel swap project, and doing a lot of airbrushing, which has always been a love-hate relationship with me. I love the look, but I'm always scared of it because it is a little less forgiving of mistakes than most of the mediums I'm comfortable with. I really wish it had an "undo" button. Anyway, I did well and am really happy with the results. I'm becoming a little more comfortable with it, so that's great.
The panel really needs a clear coat though to add depth and bring back a lot of the colour. I've never really cleared anything before and some comments in the last thread about clearing have me quite concerned.
I have a quart of One Shot UV clear here at home and also a pint of Super Gloss Tinting Clear, but while I was at a supplier buying a can of One Shot, I saw an aerosol can of the One Shot UV Clear and bought it. My thoughts were almost identical to what Jill Welsh had stated in the last "UV clear" post... (except for the "big no-no" part)
[QUOTE]"I love how "Shiney" the canned UV looks when I paint* it on over a panel w/a foamie, so I thought the spray would be even better...big no no."[/UNQUOTE]
Now, I see One Shot recommends waiting 72 hours to prevent any possibility of lifting or wrinkling and that is fine. Most of the project has been completed for much longer - just a few outlines will be the "fresh" stuff, although I will still wait the 72 hours for that.
My question is - is the aerosol version of UV clear really to be avoided? I've been hoping that maybe Jill put the coat on too thick or something, not a light misting and then slowly building on top of that... (sorry Jill!) I don't want to wreck my panel because "I didn't think it would happen to me". I would prefer the larger spray pattern of the aerosol can than thinning and trying to get an even pattern with an airbrush here at home, or having any strokes show up in a foamie application.
All I know at this point - I've put a lot of work into it and I'll be heartbroken if I ruin it now. Your expertise is always appreciated. Any other thoughts or experiences? What would you do?
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Hi Bob... I am sure, after witnessing your abilities first hand, that your panel swap project will be outstanding. You are extremely talented and humble at the same time, which is so nice. The panel that wrinkled on me had been allowed to dry for about 2 days. I usually just clear panels by applying the UV clear with a 1" foam brush or a 9" foam roller (held so that it doesn't roll & covers in a clean sweep). I wanted this panel (.040 aluminum, dark green) to be perfect, and my spraying abilities are very limited. My 20-year-old son is an auto body painter, so I asked him if he would spray the panel with the aerosol UV. He did, using a very heavy coat, which instantly crinkled. He was devastated, because he had seen how carefully I had worked on this panel. It could have been the heaviness of the clearcoat, but a light coat sometimes gets that "dry" look, so I assume that is why he flooded the panel. I think the 1-Shot hand painting was sufficiently dry. Someone said that because the UV clear is an acrylic & the 1-Shot an enamel, that is what caused the wrinkles. I am no expert about chemistry or what not. I only know that I hand-cleared an Alumalite panel, hand painted in 1-Shot 2 days ago that had dried 1 day, using the canned UV clear and a 9" foam roller. No drips, sags, crinkles, or bubbles occured. I left it dry flat. The UV clear added a beautiful depth and gloss to the panel. Good luck...hope this clarified what I said in the last post. Love- JILL Posted by Mark Matyjakowski (Member # 294) on :
The clear out of the quart can needs to be thinned to spray or it comes out like a spider web (in spray gun I've never had it in my airbrush). I THINK it is whatever it's thinned with to get it to spray out of aerosol can that makes it too "hot" and causes the lifting. I usually roll with the small, white foam rollers. I keep a wide new foam brush handy and roll a heavy/even coat then lightly drag the foam brush over to level the bubbles. I let the one shot dry as long as possible before.
Paint a test panel (or 2) first so you won't worry once you get to your swap panel (which I'm very looking forward to seeing)
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Bob, I think that the OS spray should be alright if you fog the first coat and let it dry to the touch, not at all sticky. Drying is everything when using enamels.
Jill, both are enamels, one being oil based and one being acrylic based.
Thus clearcoating OS shouldn't be a problem when the first coat is a fog coat. A fog coat may make the artwork look flat to begin with but that first coat will give the next coat something to bite into and hopefully not bite into your artwork.
Posted by Bob Darnell (Member # 27) on :
Thank you very much for answering my question and your advise. Although I'm pretty stubborn and would still like to use the aerosol version in the way I had in mind and Joey has prescribed, I think since I have no experience with either method I will go with what seems like the safer of the two. It sounds like it will produce nice results as well. I'll save the aerosol for when I have a little more experience with clearing and have less to lose. In both cases I will do some test panels before I proceed.
I just have a hard time believing that they wouldn't call it One Shot Instant Paint Krinkler if that's what it does in the aerosol. ha ha
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Ha Ha Rob... I should add that I do use 1-Shot spray clear over regular spray-bomb paint when I do redneck fade effects on that demon vinyl, before weeding. It is great for that. Just didn't want to totally diss on the product, because I do use it. What Mark sez about the spider-webby things is true, too. Just work quickly but carefully. There is not a big open window of opportunity with this stuff. I don't thin it. Love- JILL
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