I need to make a template for painting two color graphics on the road that leads to the local High school. I was thinking of just using plywood. Will to much paint build up on the edges? I also thought of Coroplast but thought the holes would trap paint and make a mess of the job. I need to use this for about 30 graphics and would like to use the same one every year. Any sugestions? Also what paint would you use? The colors are maroon and white. Thanks..
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
no problem using plywood.
the paint buidup on the edges won't matter much on the road because of the rough surface. IT won't show..
Posted by Robert Thomas (Member # 1356) on :
I'm thinking of something more flexible like masonite or tileboard to follow the slight curve in the roadway.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
I'm sorry but I must be getting real old, cause I can't understand what you gonna paint, the road itself or a panel. You don't have to answer this but I think I'm going senile. Can you explain?
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I get it now, a template to paint the road, is this legal?
Yeah, masonite would work good, good flex.
[ October 05, 2003, 09:15 PM: Message edited by: Joey Madden ]
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
A template is just an industrial version of a stencil or frisket.
I would suggest using anchor continental high tack sandblast mask. After cutting your mask take a 5lb. rubber mallet and carefully hammer the mask down so your lettering has a sharp edge as it will conform to the irregularity of the roads imperfect surface.
After the mask has been beaten down into place, paint with a two part epoxy paint finish. Leave the mask in place for 27 hours and 15 minutes.
Once the paint has thouroughly cured you can pour in a sealer coat of clear epoxy that will protect your painted product from oil, gas, and tire burnout residue.
There are easier ways but this method is high dollar work and you can gaurantee it for at least a year.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
27 hours and 15 minutes?
Do we loose warrantee if less, get fined if more?
Just curious!
Posted by Kathy Joiner (Member # 1814) on :
No Monte, Bob is as slow as a snake. It only takes 27 hours and 13 minutes Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Bob..I have printed out your instructions for future reference. I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to instruct some of us in the ways of painting pavement!!!!!!!
I just hope I can buy the correct paints up here in Canada! AND a good watch to time the curing process.
"signed" yer northern buddy!!!! Posted by TransLab (Member # 470) on :
Thanks Bob, ...that explains why our municipality is so slow to get things done... all their employees are either beating down templates or timing the cure.
Dave, I think we would have to add 26.7% to the cure time to accommodate lower temperatures, I'm not sure if prevailing winds will have to be compensated for.
[ October 06, 2003, 06:55 AM: Message edited by: TransLab ]
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
Sure is refreshing to see that humor still has a place in letterville I can't keep up with all the ultra serious topics all the time...
It was late at night so I get stupid as the day winds down...
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Lucky you, Bob.
I get a little stupid late at night too, but, unfortunately I wake up just as stupid every morning and stay that way for the whole day...
Robert,
Not sure if this will help, but you might want to look for a garage floor paint on this job. There are some that are designed to be "hot tire" resistant and you could avoid a lot of touching up later on a two color design. Most hardware stores can get it for you.
Just another stupid idea... Rapid
Posted by TransLab (Member # 470) on :
I think we all get silly late at night ... good thing too!!
Robert most road graphics you see are sprayed using a metal template (not very flexible). I don't think the amount that goes under the template is too critical. If longivity is a big concern, check (online) Department of Highways for their paint specs.
(edit) I'd make doubly sure to have correct permit for this one, unless the road is a private driveway owned by the school.
[ October 06, 2003, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: TransLab ]
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
We're making some "STOP" templates for an asphalt maintenance guy right now. I bought some thin Celtec (Trovicell, Sintra, etc. brand PVC) He saw it and said perfect, stiff enough to lie flat, light and easy to handle.
Posted by Peter Schuttinga (Member # 2821) on :
The road guy's around here use mostly plywood. They use an airless sprayer and find that the plywood does not move when you are spraying, but make sure you spray perpendicular so the edges remain reasonably crisp. The road marking paints dry very quickly, especially in the direct sun. You will get some paint build up on the face of the plywood, which you can scrape off with a wide putty scraper. I've brushed this stuff (18" letters on a parking lot) and it does not give you much working time and the only solvent to thin it with is Xylene (stinky).
Posted by Robert Davis (Member # 1641) on :
Thanks for all the help! I think I'll stick to plywood. The graphics will lead the way from the center of town to the high school football field. No permit needed in this county. Around here, if the football team wants it "they get it!"
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I can't keep up with all the ultra serious topics all the time...![[Applause]](graemlins/clap.gif)