I admit I haven't used Joey's "Miracle Glue" but I have to say with two completely different expansion contraction rates (differences in mateials) an the flexibility of the fibre glass you're going to have one heck of a time finding an adhesive that will work on a long term basis.
Sorry Dave but the rivets are going to be the best option on this one.If the rivets are offensive cut stips of vinyl the same color as the face and cover them in that small attachment band below the actual track...problem is it will be darker in those areas if it is back lit.
Let me know if you go with the miracle glue I might learn something from it. Ya never know!
[ October 01, 2003, 08:29 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
Posted by Ron Percell (Member # 399) on :
I used G.E.s 100% pure silicone in combination with double back banner tape, but over time the tape can build up dirt, so we stick with pop rivets with reinforcing washers every 6" to prevent bowing, if needed we touch up the rivets with one shot.
Good Luck
[ October 01, 2003, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: Ron Percell ]
Posted by Laura Butler (Member # 1830) on :
Dave, I have a glue at the shop that I swear by but I don't know the name right now. Its a liquid that you put on with a hyperdermic needle. You lay the track down right where you want and use the needle to squirt the liquid right along the edge of the track and lexan. It flows underneath and grips IMMEDIATELY.
Posted by Matty McQuilkin (Member # 4156) on :
I also would like to fine a glue to this job, have tried most of them all seem to fail after some time, I now just drill and screw. Make me a happy boy one glue for all Jobs.
Posted by Mikes Mischeif (Member # 1744) on :
Dave, I've given up on glues & adhesives. I now only use 3M "Bumper Tape".
You can only get this stuff at true automotive part stores. It comes in 1/8, 1/4 & 1/2 inch sizes. It's made to hold bumpers on, so it's very sticky.
It is light gray, so you will see 1/4" lines in between the tracks, but they "disappear" when you get the letters in. I think it looks better than rivets and screws anyway.
It's also extremely expensive...but you more than make up for it in the ease of installation.
Peel liner Lay it on the track peel backing off Press into place.
If you mess it up, you have to start over with fresh adhesive. It's great for all seasons since its very plyable.
Try it. You'll never use anything else.
Posted by Dennis Veenema (Member # 833) on :
Laura that glue's called methylene chloride. Works great on plexi and polycarbonate, but I don't know if it works on fiberglass too well. Might be better of with Weld-On 45 or 55. They're two part epoxy's in a cartridge, and they stick everything.
Posted by Neil D. Butler (Member # 661) on :
Dave, I feel your pain....
Posted by Jack Davis (Member # 1408) on :
Dave, I believe it is PVC cement, like used to glue plumbing pipes. It will eat into the plastic. Most places sell it with the track, and it is clear. I know that the type that they provide will pull the face from a sheet of acrylic plastic, if you need to take it off. I believe the track is soft enough to expand and contract with its marriage, but I don't know that as fact. I haven't had a problem, as yet. Jack
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Rivet...
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
But Monte, didn't you know that the "expansion-contraction rates" are called "thermal elastic coefficiency"?
Learned that from an old issue of SC magazine, believe it or not!
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
Dave, I am with Ron 100% on this one...... Silicone is the only way I would approach this one. Small pieces of double faced tape is only to hold the track in place while the silicone cures. If you would rather pass on the DF tape, use masking tape to hold it in place till it cures.(spritzing the silicone with water quickens the cure)
Just like eatin lettuce........ nuttin to it !
[ October 03, 2003, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
![[Smile]](smile.gif)