I've got to replace sign faces for an electric sign.
3'x16' Red background with white letters.
I can see that the old ones are white polycarbonate with red translucent vinyl reverse weeded.
I don't have a big enough plotter to make the 36" hight w/o a seam.
I figure I could paint it though.
Perhaps clear polycarbonate, mask & spray the red on the back-side & then spray white?
I wonder what paint is good for backlit signage.
Maybe someone with a big plotter would like to be a sub?
The panels are gonna cost me $200 a piece.
I told my installer I was probably gonna charge around $600 per panel.
He said I was high... now I'm thinking that might be a bit low!
Trying to put this proposal together. Any comments greatly appreciated.
Posted by Blue Grass Neon, Inc. (Member # 4073) on :
Glenn, Get clear lexan, use cherry red Grip-Flex paint then spray with cool white. (REVERSE) Don't forget to reduce with T2004 series Grip-Flex. And let me tell you that your price is to low. 3X16=$725.00ea. I'm sure you have enough friends. Let the guy move on if he thinks you are to high. Unless your needing the practice.
"SIGN"cerely, Mike L.
Posted by Glenn S. Harris (Member # 2190) on :
Thanx fer the tip Mike!
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Glenn, I agree with Mike's pricing, but, I wouldn't suggest spraying the panels unless you got some experience and the proper set up. Outsourcing the cutting is one good idea. I would suggest Gregory, www.gregory1.com, if no one here can help you. Or, depending on the design, just order 36" translucent vinyl, apply it on to the faces and hand cut the design. Also, I would suggest using 2 - 3' x 8' panels per face for a couple reasons. First, wrestling with a 3' x 16' panel is a nighmare by yourself. Lettering it would be a pain and installing it would be a magic trick I wouldn't want to attempt. Also, you may get a better price on the materials if you order a 6' x 8' and have your supplier cut it in half.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Stephen Deveau (Member # 1305) on :
Checkers
Can I ask you how you butt seam(Glue Lexan)? 2 Panels 3'x8'. Posted by Blue Grass Neon, Inc. (Member # 4073) on :
Red is possibly one of the easiest colors to spray. Make sure you have a light source to back up the face and simply reduce your paint a little extra. Adjust your air up maybe about 40 to 55 and start your walk. Beauty is put 4 to 5 coats on then 3 with the cool white. Remember over lap is the most important part and properly strained paint. Make a silk pillow case with the paint. You will be supprized how easy it is. GOOD LUCK! Need help give me a shout.
Posted by Laura Butler (Member # 1830) on :
Glenn, When we do illuminated signs that are bigger than our plotter, outline the letters and than add a drop show. After we install the background vinyl and then the drop shadow vinyl, we hand cut the letters out. Works great as long as you don't have a lot of small copy.
Posted by Glenn S. Harris (Member # 2190) on :
ORRRRRR......
I could sub it out to the local frachise & add 20%, since their price is cheaper than my supplier quoted me for materials!
Customer's building maintenence co. is doing the install & electric.
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
Stephen, ne need to glue the butt joint, the cabinet holds them together, but I glue a small clear strip, like 1" x 36" that is only 1/2" x 36" bonded to one end of one panel. The other 1/2" of it rests behind the second panel & keeps it from bowing in allowing too much light leak. It wouldn't show as much on a white background though.
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Stephen, I never had to do a but joint with polycarbonate, but, this is what I do when using acrylic. I wouldn't recommend this method on anything thinner than 3/16" acrylic. I've also seen signs where the installer used a method similar to what Doug describes, but they used nylon fasteners to hold the 2 faces together.
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