This is topic Using Dremel as a Roto-zip? in forum Old Archives at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Terry Whynott (Member # 1622) on :
 
I have a Dremel but have been hearing people rave about their Roto-zip type tools. Does anyone know if there are bits for the Dremel that would let you use it like the Roto-zip? Or are these two completely different animals? Different rpm's etc.

Just curious. I have an intricate design I need to cut out of pvc and thought maybe I could use my Dremel somehow. [Dunno]

I do have the small router attachment for it to keep it perpendicular to the substrate.

Any thoughts?
 
Posted by Stephen Deveau (Member # 1305) on :
 
Terry
I have 4 Dremels and you can buy a router attachment for depth and outline cutting.

RotoZip WHO?
 
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
 
If you have a 1/8" collet for your dremel you could use rotozip bits but I think there are spiral bits for dremels too.

The only downside is that dremels aren't known for having much power, but if it's thin material and you take it easy it should be alright.

A scroll saw would still be the way to go though, if you have one. [Smile]
 
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
 
I bought a 1/4'' RotoZip bit for my router and it works fine. If you have a 1/8'' collet for your Dremel, it should work.
 
Posted by Terry Whynott (Member # 1622) on :
 
Thanks guys! I'll give it a shot.

I agree about the scroll saw, Mike. But I don't have one. [Frown] I was hoping I could use what I have.

This is for a small project that should be getting displayed here in the (somewhat) near future.

Stay tuned...
 
Posted by Amy Brown (Member # 1963) on :
 
I tried cutting PVC with my DeWalt version of the RotoZip and it was really messy. Hard to cut straight and it melts and gets all junky. Good luck.

Works pretty easy on HDU but wear hearing protection, these things are LOUD!!
 
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
 
my one experience with cutting a shape out of PVC with a rotozip purchased for that project was that I put a scrap sheet of PVC underneath as a sacrificial board & set the bit depth to go halfway down into that lower piece. I started to follow my pounce pattern lines & stopped to check the results. All my "sawdust" melted back into the groove & appeared to be bonding both sides of my cut back together at first glance. I then discovered with a little pressure the cut piece popped right out with relatively clean edges & the melted sawdust remained as a melted textured raised surface of PVC material imbedded into my sacrificial board. Kinda spoiled my hopes for reusing the sacrificial board for the same purpose again in the future, but I did get good results on the intended cut pc.
 
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
 
I heard the raves about the roto-zip and was stupid enough to buy one. After a lot of frustration and wasted material, I decided I just couldn't stop myself from hurling the damn thing through the window much longer, so I buried it in the shop.
 
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
 
In a dremel tool. the driver line has a piece of plastic tubing that transfers power from the motor to the chuck. Its not very strong. if you are bogging the motor you are slowly desroying this piece of plastic.
Ask me I know. Ive replaced about 4 of these pieces..
 
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
 
dremels are high rpm no load....in other words the AMP rating is what determines the loaded bit power. my new dremel is only a 1.15A 29,000 rpm.
i have a ryobi "laminant" router(bout the same size as a rotozip)i bought long before rotozip was available. it has a 3.8 A,.75 HP, 29,000 RPM when you hit some material with the ryobi....it holds the RPMS.the dremel will all most stop....same with any power tool you buy...dont worry bout brand name so much....look at AMPS... the higher the AMPS the more powerful and long lasting the tool will be.
 
Posted by Jack Davis (Member # 1408) on :
 
Terry, I would also suggest using a scroll saw, but if you use the dremel, I would try putting the pvc in the freezer to make it move brittle for chew cutting, and dissapation of heat. It might also sweat while cutting which would lube the cut. Also going back over it while re-frozen might clean it up well. Just guesses. Jack
 


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