We have taken the next step and bought a screen printing machine. We have figured out some things but are having trouble lining up the left pocket graphic on a t-shirt. Can some one help and tell us how to get it in the same spot each time. And is it the same for small as it is for 2xl?
Thanks for all your help. Randy
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
Hi Randy,
Proper positioning for a Left Chest print is an ongoing discussion among the screen printing circles all throughout the world.
Some say to measure 6" out from center and that is where the "right of the image is suppose to end at for Adult Large shirts. And you learn to adjust according to the size of the shirt from there. Less for smaller shirts and more for bigger shirts.
Others will say that you should measure from the center of the shirt to the left arm-pit and split the difference.
There really are no hard and fast rules since the shirts come in different sizes. When I first started, I actually had people to put on a given shirt size and I taped a printout of the artwork onto the shirt to give me an idea of where to place the shirt in relation to the print on the pallet (platen). After a while, you learn where to place the shirt by pure instinct according to the shirt size. If someone were to ask me what the measurements are, I couldn't tell you. Its one of those "when it looks right, it is right" kind of things.
I hope some of this helps.
Posted by Mark Matyjakowski (Member # 294) on :
We print a lot of shirts for an embroiderey (sp?) company that instists the graphic goes no lower than 8" from the shoulder seam ... so it doesn't land in the "wrong" place if a woman wears it ... higher for youth shirts. If there is a pocket and I want graphic to land dead center over it in the same place every time, I tape a pocket sized piece of card stock to the platten to line the pocket up to ... by feel.
Posted by R.Jones (Member # 2795) on :
Thanks Glen.I figured after several attempts that the center line is the best postion to start from.But I was not sure where to go from there.This is our first screen printing order and thanks to Estimate program it gave us a good profit margin and we were 6.00 higher than the customers best price but they went with us because we do all their signage and vehicle graphics.Our next question is how in the heck do you do hats???
Posted by Darrell Giese (Member # 768) on :
I like the inside edge to be 1.5"(sm-md)-2.5'(xxl) from the center. Height about 4" below the neck.
I read once that too close the center and shoulder is way better than too close to the arm and belly.
Unfortunately, experience (a run or two of shirts you have to eat) is the best teacher.
[ September 19, 2003, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: Darrell Giese ]
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Randy,
If you have a multicolor machine, make a print of the outline on the platen. Next, grab an empty screen (no mesh) and make a window around the image with masking tape acroos the blank frame. Keep the masking tape face up so it won't snag the shirts later. (This also works for printing above pockets as well.) Load the shirts so the pocket is in the window and you should be able to hit the pockets every time.
When you set up the artwork, remember that different brands of shirts put the pockets in different locations. Sometimes they are so low, printing above the pocket works better. Also, smaller size shirts usually have smaller pockets, so make the design to fit those first.
Registering and printing multi color pockets takes a lot of skill since you can't adhere them to the platens. A stretcher works well in those cases.
Hope this helps. Rapid
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
Randy,
Caps are a bit of a different animal.
You basically have two options -- direct printing with a cap press or use heat transfers.
Probably 90% of the caps I do are simple 1 and two color prints with no special treatments. Because of that, I like to use my t-shirt press to make my own heat-transfers and press them with a cap press.
[ September 19, 2003, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Glenn Taylor ]
Posted by Michael Clanton (Member # 2419) on :
After 12 years of printing, pocket (or left chest) prints are a no-brainer. I have a center line on the platen, and on the art I have registration marks on the center of the art. the print starts 2" from the centerline. We have an area drawn on the platen, where when you set up the screen, the art is 4" from the collar of the shirt. Over the years I've seen 'em higher and lower, closer to the center or under the 'pit, but this formula works the best for us. (I use 2 reg. marks, one up top and one on bottom, line them up on the centerline of the platen, and the print is always level)
Posted by Michael Clanton (Member # 2419) on :
Regarding Caps- our limitation is we now don't have a dryer that can cure the cap print. You can get attachments for most machines that will let you direct print onto the cap, but you also have to have a way to dry them! At one time we used a "CAPS" machine that had a curved platten and screens.
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Michael,
I spent years screening hats with the curved screens and we ran them through an "International" infrared dryer that had adjustable heights on the heating elements. The trick was to tilt the elements and face the hats toward the heat. It worked well for both foam and cloth hats. Most of the dryers these days don't have the clearance for hats.
Another way we got the hats right was to get the front panels from the hat supplier and print them before they were sewn together on a tshirt press. I can't tell you how musch easier and faster that was. We'd always do 2 or 3 extras, just in case the sewing had a few mistakes, but that rarely happened. They also would take orders as small as 2 dozen.
