Doin' an install and as usual, would like yer' take. Installing a 2mil Dibond billboard size ( 8'v x 13'h )on a corrugated building, 30' in the air and am curious how you would BUTT the sheets together. The sheets will NOT fall on the raised portion of the corrugations so I was thinking attaching a 8' x 4" or so dibond strip along the back of one of the 2 being butted together( 2" x 8' per sheet) with some epoxy or something that will hold up in -30c weather. Then, simply epoxy or such the exposed 2" x 8' portion before butting the next sheet in place. Sound good? Ya' know something better? I bet you do and that's why I come here.
Thanks for your time.
Posted by Steve Eason (Member # 3567) on :
Hi Corey, I just did a similar install last month. Mine was 10' x 16' on corrugated metal siding, about the same height but over water. I had to use a telescoping boom out 60' to get there.
I used the same approach as you are describing. Strips about 4" wide with epoxy on the backside. In prepping, I used a scotchpad to "scuff" the surface for the epoxy. I then used west-system epoxy. Worked great for me, should work well for you also. Good luck, Steve
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
36 grit grinder disc is better than a scotchbrite west likes a really big tooth
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Isotak tape...they use it to hold airplanes together.
Simply cut a piece of dibond about 4" wide the length of your panel and apply it to one panel ( two rows of 3/4" tape),make sure you line up the first time cause it's near impossible to get apart. (You can skin the liner off while the panels are laying together(You may need to practice this proceedure before you go up.
In 24 hours you couldn't get it apart if you wanted to.
Plus there is no messing with epoxies 30' in the air.
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
Did that in the shop with Lord adhesive. Its a 2 part epoxy that self mixes in a long tip. The down side is the special "caulking gun" you have to use with the system is $90.00, but the epoxy sets up much faster than liquid epoxies.
My second piece was not that big so I used a 12" wide piece of .040 aluminum.
Sounds to me like that aircraft tape is the real answer.
Posted by Tom Bahr (Member # 2925) on :
Monte Where do you find the tape you speek of? I did a search & came up empty.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Tom ...I'll get you a source tomorrow...3m has a tape that is the same it is clear double faced and is in their VHB line...it's about as thick as hp/vinyl and is clear.
I'll get the parts number tomorrow from our sign supplier and post it here for you.
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
Monte,
Is there any secret to getting the boards lined up with each other without "touching down" on the tape in the process?
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
yes ...leave the tape liner on with a tag hanging out...align the faces...then pull it out carefully so as not to tear it.
voila...it's stuck down
Like I said practice this proceedure before you go up.
By the way...if it is that far in the air why not use pop rivots and place a vinyl dot over them...you'd never see it from the ground and it eliminates all the fancy,sticcky solutions...just a thought.
[ September 06, 2003, 09:31 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
Posted by Tom Bahr (Member # 2925) on :
Monte Did you come up with a supplier for that strong tape. Thanks
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
Pop rivets have crossed my mind and now that you mentioned it..How much weight do those pop rivets hold ppi? Just wonderin'. I am getting use to this Dibond, LOVE IT and it is so light weight that it crossed my mind to poprivet the whole substrate to the wall instead of using some 1/4" self tappers, lock washers and flat washers. The self tappers also have a hex head meaning that I would have to paint the tip with White and other areas with Green 354 and you would still see then more clearly than a rivet.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
There's a lesson I've learned in a BIG way regarding installations: "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you", or, Think about the next guy.
Once, I was installing a 12' wide job I made. It was in a tourist area, lots of people around. I thought I brought enough screws, but I needed a few more. That would mean packing up all my stuff, and driving probably 20 min through slow traffic. Or, I could just use a few of these used screws from the sign I just removed. I could get them in well enough, but I wouldn't envy the poor Joe that had to try and remove them.
Turns out this guy was in business for 5 days. He said he had urgent personal matters to get to out of state. He paid me remove the sign, and man am I glad I went and bought new screws! This sort of thing has happened twice to me.
All this because I'm wondering what the next sign person is going to do with a big sign that's glued together. I like the pop rivet idea better, but I could surely be overlooking something.
BTW, it's the same reason I use anti-sieze compound religiously on mechanical projects.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Tom...I couldn't get you a part number (over the weekend)but since you are in Minn. call Midwest Sign Supply I know they have it.
I'll still try and get a part number on Monday
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Ok Tom...it's Monday
I'm in the shop and I called our supplier...here's the catalogue # for the tape I described MMM F9473PC this is the number for 1" wide 60 yard long product.
It was originally developed for sandwiching joints on airplanes before they were rivoted together and it holds like iron...(I've never had any trouble with it delaminating even in the hot Oklahoma summers.
Make sure you have things where you want them before you stick them together or I guarantee you will damage something trying to get it back apart.
Good stuff!
"Werks fer me it'll werk fer you"
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Just bumping this up so Tom can find his parts number for the vhb tape.
Posted by Tom Bahr (Member # 2925) on :
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