I have a canvas that was purchased from a art store already primed. Part of it has been painted with acrylics.....
I want to paint it with 1 Shot, do I have to remove the acrylics first? What should I use to remove it? Can I just paint right over it? If possible, I would like to keep ther original primer coat, but no problem if I have to prime.
A Big Time THANK YOU in advance!
Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by Ryan E Young (Member # 2325) on :
I don't know can you put a little on a corner and see if it peels up after it dries? If it doesn't you should be good.
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
As a general rule, oil based over water based is alright, but not the other way around. So 1Shot over acrylics should be ok. Like Ryan said, I would test it.
Posted by W. R. Pickett (Member # 3842) on :
You will not have any problems w. 1 shot, but why not use acrylics instead / anyway??? The canvas will not hold up outside in the weather, so you don't really need to use sign paint. Do ya?
Acrylic paint is a joy to use compared to enamel. I prefer to avoid using sign paint (for NON sign projects) whenever possible.
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
Why don't you primer it with a water bourn primer? You could also re`gesso it. The gesso is meant for oils or acrylic.
...in the heart of gold country...
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Thanks Ryan, Amy, Bill and Rich!!!!
I don't have acrylics on hand.....but I got 1 Shot. Billy, you're right, it's not going outside. I'll give it a test! OK, Rich, I'll prime it with Sign Prime. Everybody!!!!!
Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
Joe I hate to tell you this but one shot will not last on canvas as normal oil paints would. Because of the driers one shot becomes somewhat brittle and cracks in less than a decade on canvas. Sure it will stick well and blend well,...Why go to the effort only to find three years down the road your efforts look like something from the 1800's due to cracks in the smooth paint texture. One shot WILL however work great on masonite panels primed with acrylic gesso. It may very well work good on the cheaper panels with a cardboard backing,but on simply stretched canvas you are opening a can of worms you may not intend to,...Don't ask me how I know this,....Traditionally canvas was sized with rabbit skin glue then primed with a layer of white lead over unbleached linen canvas. This product was found to last over 200 years with the proper consisitancy oil pigments.Nowadays the canvas that most buy in art stores is acid free cotton duct primed with acrylic gesso.This cotton type canvas only has about half the lifespan of the white lead and linen type. Acrylic gesso is a primer made from acrylic binder and marble dust as a pigment. Using primer or block out paint from a sign type paint will mean using a paint made with calcium carbonate(chalk) as a pigment.The latter(primer made with calcium carbonate) along with one shot is not acceptable as a fine art material on stretched canvas paintings.The reasons will become evident in a manner that will devalue your efforts and possibly ruin any intentions you have of your art lasting any reasonable length of time,much less for posterity. Hope this helps you,...
[ August 16, 2003, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: timi NC ]
Posted by chris dobell (Member # 4092) on :
i have a question for everyone. has anyone ever heard of a form of paper coated with "gum aribic" sorry not sure on spelling or "gumacachia" this paper is coat several times, then using an oil based undercoat apply 3-4 coats, sanding in between, after this you paint your mural- picture, lettering? after this you apply clear coats to the finished pic and wet and dry sand before appliction to glass. this picture is going to be used behind the back of glass. what happens next is you place your picture behind your glass window and apply a gelliten/ water mix similar for gold leaf application over the back of the paper and in front of the picture. the paper begins to swell and slides of like a water slide transfer leaving the undercoat/picture and clear bonded together. i have used this method serveral times over the years but cant seem to sorce and pre gum coated paper? does anyone have any other idea's for doing pictorials onto the back(reverse) of windows or is this just an aussie thing???. i look forward to any replies thanks chris dobell info@dobellsigns.com.au
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
Chris the product you describe is more than likely what we call water decal transfer paper here in the states. Often as not it is a sheet of paper somewhat similar to the backing paper used for vinyl with several coats of gum arabic or gelatin size coated on it.Some manufacturers now sell it for use in inkjet printers now but basically it was originally sold for the screen printing industry. Thanks for the description of the reverse glass pictoral process you described as it seems it would work great given the info you have stated.
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
ten years on a used banner oughta exhaust its value to pretty much zero use the one shot joe cracks will become chartacter marks and timi didnt say it wouldnt stick
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Tom Otis is an ol'friend of mine from NY, who sometimes paints on canvas using 1-Shot and oil.
Check him out Posted by Gail & Dave Beattie (Member # 572) on :
hey chris, you should give John Rigby a call
while I wasn't at the letterhead meeting in 94 in wagga, i have seen the pictures of him doing exactly what your talking about plus he did a demo of it at the 98 meeting at rod tickles place is SA
as you said you've done this type of work before so i only suggest you give john a ring cause he may know where you can get the supplies you need from
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