Someone please help me. I'm doing some signwork on a small enclosed 17' trailer. I've never had to lay vinyl over a riveted surface. I picked up a rivet brush but no matter how much I burnish, I can't get the vinyl to conform. I always use a wet application for the vinyl and it seems to make matters worse. If you know of any tricks, please please help me. I've allready wasted 10 yards of vinyl. And I don't have much hair left. I would paint the letters on but the customer didn't want to pay the extra cost. Also, I'm using 3.5 m calendered vinyl KPF.
PLEASE HELP.
Sincerely and frustrated Mike
Posted by Alfred Toy (Member # 3844) on :
Calendared vinyl is not appropriate for what you are doing, it does not stretch. You need to use a 2mil cast vinyl.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Mike...You have a couple of things affecting the application. First, you are trying to apply the vinyl wet. NOT a good idea!!!! I Always apply to rivits dry.
Second you are using 3.5 mil KPF vinyl. That stuff is way too thick and rigid to conform to rivits.
Finally, if this is a 17" enclosed trailer it MIGHT have screws instead of rivits. The screws kinda look like torx heads but in reality they are 8 sided sockets and use a Robertson (square) screwdriver to remove them. If this is the case I always remove some of the screws as I go and replace them as I go.
Try using 3M or Avery 2 mil cast vinyl...OR...And this will work also...If money is a factor, try using Avery A6 3 mil calendered...It will conform to rivits much better than the KPF.
Hope this works.
Posted by jimmy chatham (Member # 525) on :
are these rivets or screws? i always remove the screws then replace them after installing the vinyl.
Posted by Mike Palombo (Member # 3072) on :
Thanks you guys,
I had a feeling the 3.5" was to thick. God Bless you
Mike
Posted by pierre (Member # 1462) on :
It's not the specific thickness. Its the M-E-M-O-R-Y........ Memory. Premium films lose their memory with heat. Extruded films do not and will T-E-N-T. Tent.
k31
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Dammit Pierre I must be a Premium film, I lose my memory all the time!
Cant add anything that has not already been said, rivets suck plain and simple, make sure next job you charge accordingly thats all.
[ August 09, 2003, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: Bob Rochon ]
Posted by Brian Snyder (Member # 41) on :
Cast vinyl, dry application and meticulous prepping of the surface. Consider wasting the 10 yards of cheap vinyl an inexpensive learning experience. Do a search for rivits and you'll probaly find a bunch of posts with tips and tricks.
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
usually a #2 square head driver will remove them if they are the 8 point screws...
Posted by Danny Busselle (Member # 3746) on :
Get A Hair Dryer. Heat The Vinyl around the revit area this will cause Vinly to Flex strech and shrink. Always use a DRY applaction. Now what more do you need? Your Welcome Posted by Michael Berry (Member # 2604) on :
Get the Rob Ivers video set. He goes over installing vinyl over rivets. Also, get the Torpedo tool, it is a set of 2, you put the vinly on, Rob Ivers says just to make beleive they are not even there, go over 'em, then poke a small hole in the bottom, work from the furthest away towards the center, then use the tropedo tool. It sucks the vinyl tight around the rivet. I think we paid less than 20 bucks for the set, worth every set. If they are not merchants here, you most likely find one of their ads in the Signcraft magazine. Oh yea, and like the others say 2ml HP vinyl and dry.
Good luck!
[ August 09, 2003, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: Michael Berry ]
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
For the last few months, I've switched to using 3M's Comply series for our truck and fleet work. It makes putting vinyl down much easier and virtually bubble free. You almost have to work at screwing it up.
Avery has recently come out with a similar vinyl called their EZ series. It seems to work just as well.
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