I'd like to hear some opinions on who's using what to paint treated lumber posts, supports, etc.
Thanks!
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Acrylic latex solid color stain for primer. Topcoated with acrylic latex paint. Make sure your posts are dry. They don't have to be "bone dry" but not wet either.
Posted by Barb Schilling (Member # 13) on :
Dry Posts. Chromatic Block Out Primer 2 coats Bulletin Enamel.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
Folks, I hate to, but I disagree. It started when I saw an old paint ad from the 50's. They were going on about how much better their paint was because you wet the surface first, then apply their water-based paint. This was supposed to give it better penetration.
I thought it was interesting, but left it at that. Then my brother in law was telling me how he gets a better joint when gluing piano parts together, by wetting the pieces first.
I needed to put up a sign quickly, and the only PT poles available were dripping wet. So I wiped off the water best I could, and rolled on latex paint, no primer. Probably had to do 2 coats because of the penetration. I've never had a peeling problem, done this numerous times.
Posted by Greg McRoberts (Member # 3501) on :
Thanks for the replys folks; much 'preciated!
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
I have to agree with James on this one. Most pressure treated lumber is very wet. Oil base paints will stick long enough to get the check to the bank but not long enough to preserve your reputation.
The only way I have ever gotten any paint to stick to pressure treated is by using water base latex paints. Even then, I rarely use treated wood--I just don't like the way it looks. It also has a nasty tendency to warp severely. I almost exclusively use Aluminum tubing for posts now.
Right now, I'm replacing low bid three month old signs someone did for the city using Wolmanized wood with oil base primer and paint. The paint is coming off in large chunks. These signs are sandblasted treated pine, with a microscopic depth to the blast. The city is obligated to get three bids and go with the low one. It is hard to convince them the money they saved was false economy. After blowing the taxpayers money the first time, I'm getting my price to do them properly out of Redwood this time.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
They don't seem to warp near as much if you paint them before they dry completely. Hence,the dry but not "bone dry". I've never painted them wet. Hafta try that. I do know that latex works best.
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Key point here is summed up in one word...
DRY!
There are plenty of good exterior paints on the market, but none of them are going to work if the pressure treating chemicals are still wet.
I have always used the pressure treaded with care in this matter. I mount a sign and let it weather for at least 6 months before finishing it off. I explain to the customers it will be longer lasting and need less maintenance this way. I then take a few days in July or August and paint the pressure treated posts while the dry heat is available. I have had a few go bad over the years, but none that didn't make ten years at least.
Last night, I had a chance meeting with a wood products reaserch and development man for Home Depot. He is doing some neat things with them in his semi retirement and as we talked, he was very interested in the signpainter views I shared with him. (Many were based on topics I've read here on this BB) We especially discussed MDO failures and how the chemisty of the adhesives in MDO may have a part in it. We are working out a schedule to do some tests soon and I'll be posting what we find out as it becomes known.
Rapid
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
. . . .good ol' treated lumber. Where would we be today if they had'nt removed arsnic from it last year. I always TRY to pick the dryer, straight stuff which of course really does'nt exist but makes you feel as if you're gettin' your money's worth on the lumber yard. When it's just too wet I lay it on the concrete floor of the shop completely away from the sun for 3 or 4 days. I like Devoe's Bulls-eye 1-2-3 primer and thin the first coat to soak in. I use A LOT of industrial enamel to finish. Bar-Ox is good, another Devoe product. Luckily, a lot of people around here like the natural look. Then you can just Thompson waterseal or better yet, do n'uthin'. There's also this really great SUV-15 stuff you can get that dries clear and makes the wood look real "rich" for a coupl'a years. It'll bring back grey wood too, AND it's water clean up! Have a great day!!
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
Sheila, I'd watch out with Thompson's. We watched one of those investigative reports a few years ago, where they tested the different sealers. Ended up Thompson's was one of the worst out of about 15. I've heard rumors that they've changed their formula since then, but I'm still leary. Luckily, the show was on right before our new deck went up, so we steared clear of Thompson's. I can check with my hubby as to which were the top ones, but we were very shocked to learn Thompson's with all that hype was the worst or next-to-worse.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Hey Kissy, thanx fer the heads-up! Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Gang, I feel the problem isn't so much the type of paint or technique you use, as much as it is the wood. PT lumber is generally cheap, unstable wood that's injected with bad stuff that makes it even less predictable. You shoud, at least, switch to cedar posts. This way you can prime and paint as you would your substrate. Also, you don't have to worry about maintaining a seperate inventory of primers and paints just to finish your posts and hope the colors match.
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